Undeveloped Climbing Area near RRG and NRG

Back in the 1970’s and early 1980’s my friends and I used to climb in our hometown, Kermit, West Virginia. We called ourselves the Appalachian Mountain Daredevils. Since we have all grown up and moved away, there is no one rock climbing there now, so it is virgin territory just waiting to be developed. Kermit is in the Tug Fork River Valley, right on the Kentucky border, about 60 miles south of Huntington, WV. This is about an hour and a half east of Red River Gorge, KY and a couple of hours west of New River Gorge, WV. Geologically it is identical to New River Gorge. There is a great deal of undiscovered and undeveloped climbing in the Tug Valley between the towns of Kermit and Crum, WV which is about 6 miles north of Kermit. From Kermit southward about 4 miles to Naugatuck, WV, there are also many crags to explore. Many trad routes or top rope, but primarily this is bouldering territory. We used to climb all of them (free solo; we had no equipment nor crash pads - this was 1975) but to my knowledge no one climbs there now. I would be thrilled as a pioneer of climbing in this area if someone would put Tug Valley, especially Kermit, on the rock climbing map. With venues such as NRG and RRG getting so overused and crowded it would be nice to have a spot with elbow room.

We had trails all through those woods for access, but they are mostly overgrown now. The two best crags, Battleship Rock and Man’s Face Rock, are located at the top of the hill behind the old Kermit High School gym. There is no longer a Kermit High School building, but the gymnasium is still there and used as a community center. The best approach is to park in the parking lot at the old high school gym, right beside the town hall building, and walk up the backstreets of the town directly behind the gym. There are several switchback streets that will get you about one-third of the way up the hill. From there, bushwhack your way another 100 yards up to the top of the ridge. You will probably not have anyone confront you about access, but if you do, tell them B.W. Thornton sent you there to retrace the climbs of the Appalachian Mountain Daredevils on Battleship and Man’s Face Rocks. They will probably roll out a red carpet for you or maybe offer some local moonshine.

The two former climbers who do still live in Kermit are brothers Lou and Michael Webb. Lou is the better climber, but I do not have contact info for him. If you email me, I can give you Michael's landline. Either of these guys will be excited to guide, keeping in mind they are now almost 60 years old!

Happy Exploring,

B. W. Thornton

Wow. Thanks for the beta BW. I currently live too far from Kermit to do anything about it but your generosity in sharing info sounds refreshing in this age of private & locals only crags. I hope someone will be able to take you up on your offer. Rock on.

BW Thorntonwrote:  You will probably not have anyone confront you about access, but if you do, tell them B.W. Thornton sent you there to retrace the climbs of the Appalachian Mountain Daredevils on Battleship and Man’s Face Rocks. They will probably roll out a red carpet for you or maybe offer some local moonshine. 

If you want these places to get blown up by gumbies developed you could always make (or link) an area on this site...

Ha! I was also born and raised in Wayne County, WV (near the town of Wayne), but now I live and work as a climbing guide at Seneca Rocks. Just yesterday I was on Beech Fork Lake and saw a tall rock outcrop and made a mental note to maybe check it out sometime. I second the declaration that there's thousands of boulders, shelter caves, and small outcrops ripe for exploration. My brother and I similarly free soloed FA everything we could growing up before we knew rock climbing was a thing lol. My best friend from high school was just elected county commissioner, and has been asking me about what the county could do on the outdoor recreation and tourism front, and I immediately thought of the bolders. If anyone seriously wants to climb in this part of the state please send me a message too and we can talk! 

Kyle Millswrote:

Ha! I was also born and raised in Wayne County, WV (near the town of Wayne), but now I live and work as a climbing guide at Seneca Rocks. Just yesterday I was on Beech Fork Lake and saw a tall rock outcrop and made a mental note to maybe check it out sometime. I second the declaration that there's thousands of boulders, shelter caves, and small outcrops ripe for exploration. My brother and I similarly free soloed FA everything we could growing up before we knew rock climbing was a thing lol. My best friend from high school was just elected county commissioner, and has been asking me about what the county could do on the outdoor recreation and tourism front, and I immediately thought of the bolders. If anyone seriously wants to climb in this part of the state please send me a message too and we can talk! 

You know right where I'm talking about!  Like your friend in county government, I am interested in our home area being promoted.  As you may know, the Hatfield-McCoy ATV Trail system is expanded into the Cabwaylingo State Forest area.  The thought has occurred to me to piggy-back climbing as another high adventure activity the region has to offer.  Here is my email.  When you get ready to go to Wayne County again contact me and I can give you further details.  bwthorntoniii@gmail.com 

By the way, I used to teach at Wayne County Middle School (1989-1992).  You probably noticed how I used the term “pioneer” in my post.  Sounds like we have a similar climbing history.  My buddies and I eventually made it to Seneca several times 1979-1985, back when there was a Gendarme to climb!  Been on that point many a time before she fell. Which climbing school are you with at Seneca?  Look forward to staying in touch,  BW Thornton

djkyotewrote:

"Journey of the Sorcerer" - Eagles

I’m headed to the nrg soon and am putting this on my list to check out.

Make sure to find lout who owns the land and ask permission if it’s private!  Wouldn’t want to eliminate access before it even begins by accessing or crossing illegally…

Gunks Jessewrote:

Make sure to find lout who owns the land and ask permission if it’s private!  Wouldn’t want to eliminate access before it even begins by accessing or crossing illegally…

dadgum it, why aren't the kids these days into traditional development anymore

caesar.saladwrote:

I’m headed to the nrg soon and am putting this on my list to check out.

Glad to hear of your interest and I think you will find it worth your while to explore. Email me when you are planning your trip and I can fill you in on more details, including permission from the property owner. bwthorntoniii@gmail.com