Gear nerds: which is the holy grail CAMP alpine draw configuration?

Andrew Ricewrote:

Why do you have to pass one carabiner through the other. You realize there's a gate on that thing, I'm sure. Just clip the sling through. 

Same as others mentioned, it works but it's not as easy (and definitely not as easy with one hand) so I listed it as a downside to that configuration. With Photon x Photon or Nano x Nano you don't have to think about this at all   

Brandon Rwrote:

If I was limited to only Camp, then I'd get the nanos for their lightness for sure. Camp should sell packages that include cam lube and a pre-paid return box with all their carabiners though for the inevitable 10% that go faulty. 

This is certainly valid for the older generation of Photons but is now becoming an old meme. CAMP updated the spring tension design on the 2022+ models and it is a NOTICEABLE difference for me. If you get one with the new CAMP logo on it, it has the new design. I have a few old ones with this issue but they still work fine and if you are committed enough to ask, Camp will replace them for free for you. Check it out!

Will Nwrote:

This is certainly valid for the older generation of Photons but is now becoming an old meme. CAMP updated the spring tension design on the 2022+ models and it is a NOTICEABLE difference for me. If you get one with the new CAMP logo on it, it has the new design. I have a few old ones with this issue but they still work fine and if you are committed enough to ask, Camp will replace them for free for you. Check it out!

I wish that were true, but a friend just showed me a fairly new Dyon (not sure if it had the new label) with a gate that sticks open. We found that the wire was interfering with itself where it enters the fixed side of the gate. Just bad quality control over there, and I suspect it always will be. If there is a "holy grail", it's not going to be coming from Camp. 

Short Fall Sean wrote:

Please don't tell me you freaking carry oranges up multipitch routes, dude. Do you also bring a juicer and a crystal goblet to drink from?

Always **king**

Green Dyons for gear end and red DMM Trad Alpha for the rope end. Red Alpha Sport is even nicer but some of my partners complain about the extra 6g per biner…

Brandon Rwrote:

I wish that were true, but a friend just showed me a fairly new Dyon (not sure if it had the new label) with a gate that sticks open. We found that the wire was interfering with itself where it enters the fixed side of the gate. Just bad quality control over there, and I suspect it always will be. If there is a "holy grail", it's not going to be coming from Camp. 

Double check it’s a new one. The update came out sometime in ~August. It’s very likely it’s not actually a new one and this is just FUD. Who knows though. 

Christian Heschwrote:

Green Dyons for gear end and red DMM Trad Alpha for the rope end. Red Alpha Sport is even nicer but some of my partners complain about the extra 6g per biner…

Finally someone who understands that looking good with bright colors matters more than weight. I'm all about my purple dyons and helium's. 

I actually have a method to the madness ;)

Green = gear

Red = rope

Should be obvious anyway but I figured it couldn’t hurt, especially if I’m climbing with various partners 

Christian Heschwrote:

I actually have a method to the madness ;)

Green = gear

Red = rope

Should be obvious anyway but I figured it couldn’t hurt, especially if I’m climbing with various partners 

I like this. I have "green on gear" but may start doing red on rope too. 

Grey gear, red rope for me as well. Or just gray gear and color for the rope. Either way I keep all of the metal to metal carbiners in my rack gray or silver

Grey to gear 

Color to rope 

I have orange nanos for my gear/harness side, since thats the color the least of my cams are. Makes it easy to tell it's a draw and not a cam racking 'biner at a glance on the harness.

I personally do black to gear and a slightly dark black to rope but I understand not everyone gets a perfect 100 on the Farnsworth–Munsell Hue test.

Tal Mwrote:

I personally do black to gear and a slightly dark black to rope but I understand not everyone gets a perfect 100 on the Farnsworth–Munsell Hue test.

Is slightly dark black a Munsell color? 5GR 2/0 vs 1/0? 

I dont know what advice to give. The nano is lighter, but a little harder to clip. I dont know what is better.

I used to do Nano/Photon. After getting tired of gate problems, I switched to Alpha Trad / Chimera and haven’t looked back. 

Dyon/Dyon