New and Experienced climbers over 50 #22

S. Neohwrote:

^ Pretty rock .... harness on with perhaps a piece of gear on the left gear loop... no rope on climber, camouflaged rope, camera trick, rope photoshoped out?

I took the pic with my iPhone—rope sort of blended in.  One long top rope from the top of intersection rock… big swing potential.  

Bob Gaineswrote:

Hi Lori,

I think Seth got that wrong. That route is listed and drawn in the topo on page 183 of Randy Vogel's 1992 Joshua Tree Rock Climbing Guide. It's called "Ignorant Photons from Pluto" 5.11a (TR). * Listed as a toprope although I believe it's been led since then and also is a little harder (more like 11+).

THANK YOU, Bob!  I know I’ve asked you about it before.  I was just so captivated watching Zach dance across that face.  Such beautiful movement.  

Big changes.. I need to be out of the cabin by Friday.... morning..  but i didn't know for sure that the buyers loan was approved untill a few min ago...   going to have to put my poor cat 

in jail for however long it takes to close on the place that I signed a contract on yesterday.... crazy stuff. i will be living in the van for a bit and isa's Tiny house up on the hill... gave my broken 1970s troy built roto tiller to a friend today who likes fixing all things motorized... it was close enough to the crag that i talked myself into taking the time to swing buy and have a hike. these folks were on my warm up so I started up center crack. I used to hike that thing in my sleep but today my balance and head felt off so I downclimbed and took a nap in the sun. When these folks were finished  I did a lap and my 3 mile loop to get back to the parking lot. probably the last time I will do this while living in the area...   big changes... 

Lori Milaswrote:

I finally got some answers on this picture I took some years ago.  I never could get an ID on the route.  Seth just saw it and responded "“The Shawnshank Redemption” 10+ Dave Mayville, Shawn Snyder, chili dog, and Seth zaharias."  Not sure why it's not in any guidebook or MP.  Is Dave Mayville the blond shirtless older dude who saunters up that 13a with the roof?   

It’s like deja vu all over again…

https://www.mountainproject.com/search?q=Ignorant%20photons

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

Big changes.. I need to be out of the cabin by Friday.... morning..  

Nick, sorry about the upheaval.  That's a drag.  But at least it's not the dead of winter yet?  Easier to move now.  Good luck with the transition.

Russ Wallingwrote:

It’s like deja vu all over again…

https://www.mountainproject.com/search?q=Ignorant%20photons

I think if you say ‘deja vu’ you don’t need the ‘all over again’ bit

Carl Schneiderwrote:

I think if you say ‘deja vu’ you don’t need the ‘all over again’ bit

Don’t tell that to Yogi Berra!

Carl Schneiderwrote:

I think if you say ‘deja vu’ you don’t need the ‘all over again’ bit

It went over your head mate….

It's  exciting.  Puts me next to family and the best ice climbing in the lower 48..  but a terrible time to buy property.   Hopefully my deal will go through. 

Where are you buying Nick?

I posted this on the section for Partners SoCal but am also posting here.  Seeking partners for Jtree from Nov 6 for a couple of months or more. Been climbing 20+ years. Would like to climb 5 days per week, up to easy 5.10s once I am back in condition but happiest on classic 5.8s or .9s and also enjoy days with easy routes

thanks

Richard

Yes I am buying. my last attempt a month ago fell through  so hopefully this one works out because as of fri morning I am homeless... 

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

It's  exciting.  Puts me next to family and the best ice climbing in the lower 48..  but a terrible time to buy property.   Hopefully my deal will go through. 

Yes, it is a bad time - just closed on something myself. But - es la vida. 

Carl Schneiderwrote:

I think if you say ‘deja vu’ you don’t need the ‘all over again’ bit

Russ is just being mean Carl. It is true I’ve asked about this picture many times and gotten that answer… But when Seth burst forth with a totally different route name and claimed to have done the FA I took notice.

Point is I never ever expected to climb that whole route but I would’ve been thrilled just to dance a little on it just like Zack.

Lori, here’s from Vogel’s Joshua Tree West guidebook. FA: Lechlinski & Long, 1979. 

Terry Ewrote:

Lori, here’s from Vogel’s Joshua Tree West guidebook. FA: Lechlinski & Long, 1979. 

Thank you. Yea… this is not the route he climbed.  

So the plot thickens.  

From Zach just now:  "

Flattered by all of this. Thank you for sharing Lori! I am honored for this moment to have played a part in inspiring you to start rock dancing yourself.  What was going on in the photos is that we did have a mega long top rope, and I wanted to see if I could rainbow up through shawnshank and then down climb left ski."

Here's my recollection:

Lori Milaswrote:

Russ is just being mean Carl. It is true I’ve asked about this picture many times and gotten that answer… But when Seth burst forth with a totally different route name and claimed to have done the FA I took notice.

Point is I never ever expected to climb that whole route but I would’ve been thrilled just to dance a little on it just like Zack.

Oh ok   

Lori Milaswrote:

Thank you. Yea… this is not the route he climbed.  

So the plot thickens.  

From Zach just now:  "

Flattered by all of this. Thank you for sharing Lori! I am honored for this moment to have played a part in inspiring you to start rock dancing yourself.  What was going on in the photos is that we did have a mega long top rope, and I wanted to see if I could rainbow up through shawnshank and then down climb left ski."

Here's my recollection:

So, wow! Did that go??? Did he say? Looks challenging, and yeah, a super long top rope seems prudent!

H.

Old lady Hwrote:

So, wow! Did that go??? Did he say? Looks challenging, and yeah, a super long top rope seems prudent!

H.

Yeah It went, Helen! I sat and watched the whole thing! It’s an odd little route and I don’t know what “Rainbow  up” means but whatever it is that’s what he did!

Lori Milaswrote:

Yeah It went, Helen! I sat and watched the whole thing! It’s an odd little route and I don’t know what “Rainbow  up” means but whatever it is that’s what he did!

Rainbow, like in the gym. Climbing on any color of hold, so outdoors would be going up as you see fit. Multiple bits and pieces of who cares what route.

And, wow again!

H