Where to tie a prusik on a rappel??

John Marsella wrote:http://www.rockandice.com/articles/how-to-climb/article/937-tragedy-on-leaning-tower here's some good information. (almost on topic)

Good info...especially if you climb as much as Skinner did.

How many times a year do most MP wankers get out?

rgold wrote: I'm not sure exactly what Mark means by "proven" in his comments above, but it seems beyond question to me that an unconscious hanging climber is in mortal danger.

I'd like to see better science in this to provide a medical protocol.

Dan COwrote: So that is a couple votes for attaching the prusik to the leg loop rather than belay loop, I've only been climbing for a couple years, can anybody else chime in on this? I've always been told never to use the leg loop.

I wouldn’t belay or tie into my leg loop. I don’t think I’ll attach my autoblock there either. Seems the tie in points and the belay loop are quite sturdy, and made to withstand. Why mess around with leg loops? Also….  I did attach my autobock to the leg loop once and got flipped sideways after a fall.

Joey Frechettewrote:

I wouldn’t belay or tie into my leg loop. I don’t think I’ll attach my autoblock there either. Seems the tie in points and the belay loop are quite sturdy, and made to withstand. Why mess around with leg loops? Also….  I did attach my autobock to the leg loop once and got flipped sideways after a fall.

My friend, you realize the last post on this thread was almost twelve years ago?

more importantly, I'd like to know how you "fall and get flipped sideways" while on rappel...

Never put the prusik above the rappel device. Because then you look like you’re jerking off while you rappel. 

Emilio Sosawrote:

My friend, you realize the last post on this thread was almost twelve years ago?

Ha! I do now

Christian Heschwrote:

more importantly, I'd like to know how you "fall and get flipped sideways" while on rappel...

Tripped

Gloweringwrote:

Never put the prusik above the rappel device. Because then you look like you’re jerking off while you rappel. 

You say that like it's a bad thing????

I personally extend my rap device to eye level, sometimes with a runner knotted and sometimes with a long draw with 2 lockers- one on each end.  The main reason I do this is because it’s easier for me to rap with a full pack and keep everything smooth, especially on free-hanging rappels.

However, I do think there are merits to both methods.  With the one I (and judging by responses, most others) use, ease of set up and use is the benefit, among other things.  With the other method, however, if you’re using a “guide style” device, it’s pretty slick and easy to convert to ascending mid rappel.  So, an argument could be made either way, the rarity of something “going wrong” notwithstanding.  As with many things in climbing, there’s more than one way to do things, and the key takeaways should be to A) be comfortable with your method and employing it properly and B) know and test safely on the ground if possible potential modes of failure for your preferred method.  Sorry for continuing to answer a years-old thread, but if it helps someone, I’m all for it.