New and Experienced climbers over 50 #22

Kristian Solemwrote:

Yes, you remind me of when Lord Nelson, after suffering his own amputation, asked his ships surgeon to warm his blades before operating, for the comfort of the men.

We were harder then, I think. 

I’m sure by that time he would have been well pissed on good brandy (he would have been very drunk).

I think it’s more probable we’ve experienced pain pretty much the same through the ages but have had fewer options to deal with it. I think there’s differences in individuals though. I do know that my pain threshold seems very low. Even THINKING about a stubbed toe or falling off a boulder problem at the gym causes my testicles to retreat inside my body.   

Nick, I can try it would be near the end of the month. I'll have a better idea in about a week.

Carl, too funny. Always good to hear from you.

Best of health Victor. You have changed my mind about Gri-Gris.

Guy, the 455 is going back in its original car a 442 W30 Olds. The same person is putting the 300 in a Spitfire. I promised I would port the heads while I'm at his place. That's why I'm not sure about when I can get to Vermont. 

Kris, it's going to be wicked fast. I have no idea how he is going to stop it much less turn it. He's as old as us so he might as well go for it what else has he got to live for anyhow?

Don't forget they had Opium.

Mark My life is in a bit of limbo? i might be homeless  in a few weeks or not??? . the cabin is under contract but we don't know if the buyers financeing went through?  anyways if would be fun to hook up for a day if you are passing through.  

Thanks for all the well wishes! 

@Mark (and others) My accident has affected some of my partners views about helmets and belay devices as well, and I'm very happy about that. There are many other assisted devices besides the Gri-Gri. While I'm adapted to it, I know that others HATE it. The operative word is "assisted". I think I'll be adding some variation of the Edelrid Jul to my kit, so I can deal with twin ropes.

On Monday, I went to a PT/trainer who's a specialist for climbers. While the PTs who've been treating me have been great, it was really interesting to get advice from someone who knew exactly what I'd be asking my body to do as I recover and get back to climbing. He definitely reframed my thinking about my current efforts in the climbing gym.  I suspect that the next few months are going to be where the real work begins, as I'm trying to get my left leg to work well, as opposed to just work. I'm looking forward to it!

Victor Kwrote:

 I think I'll be adding some variation of the Edelrid Jul to my kit, so I can deal with twin ropes.

I use a Mammut Smart Alpine as my primary multi pitch belay and rappel device. I really like it. Took a while to figure out how to best rap with it but now I have that down, too.

https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/reviews/climbing/belay-device/mammut-smart-alpine

Victor, my thoughts are with you and the trauma you experienced. I passed through Colorado visiting Dave Turner  and my son Seth and his family. Both commented on the remarkable actions you managed in an incredible incident. I hope your recovery goes well and hope to see you in COR when we gather again.
David (Twisp, WA)

Turn your back on this crowd for a minute and there's a page or two of adventures, misadventures, holy crap that was close stories, assorted injuries etc, various conundrummities...

So here's a tiny bit of niceness.

First, fall in my front yard. Oat grass, and asters, native are the lighter purple, the darker ones are semi domesticated. A mix of annuals, perennials, shrubs and yes, lawn that needs mowing.

And yes, those are front yard artichokes in the background.

It mostly takes care of itself, I just wander through with a trimmer now and then. I leave all the seedheads on everything. Birds eat a surprising range of seeds in the winter.

Both the front and back get a fair amount of comments, if I happen to be out. Lots of dog walkers, moms with strollers, etc.

So today, when I came back from a short walk to get a bit of groceries, this was on my front porch.

Two tins. Okaaay.....

No idea whatsoever. Meant for the neighbor??? 

So I opened them up. And....

MP won't let me post the inside of the note, file too big. But it reads (hand written in uppercase):

"9/26/22

LADY GARDNER-ARTICHOKE QUEEN.

THESE SEEDS ARE SPECIAL. GIVEN TO ME ON 6/10/22 AT A WAL-MART IN COLORADO THAT DISMISSED THE KIOSK TO PUT IN 4TH OF JULY KIOSK. WE WERE ALLOWED TO TAKE FOR FREE, BAGS OF SEEDS. I HAVE GIVEN TO A CHURCH, A COMMUNE, A LOVELY COUPLE, AND NOW YOU.

AFTER WALKING BY YOUR GARDEN FOR MONTHS, I FINALLY MET YOU YESTERDAY AND DECIDED THEN, YOU WOULD GET THE REMAINDER, AND THE BEST I KEPT FOR MYSELF. THE TIN BOXES ARE GREAT KEEPERS AS I AM SURE YOUR FAMILY KEPT THEIR SEEDS IN TINS TO KEEP THEM VIABLE.

ENJOY-ANNE"

So only 2 "problems". A bazillion more seeds than I can ever use.

And I have no idea who this is.   

Hope this random act of kindness cheers all of you up as much as it did me!

Best, Helen

That’s awesome Helen. Your yard is amazing - I can imagine the birds appreciate you just as much as the mystery Anne does!

Helen that’s cool. I used to have a really nice veggie garden and chooks and then after a few years of drought and a feeling we’d even fucked up nature I gave up. That was also about the time I started climbing.
I had a great indoor climbing sesh today, top roping and leading. Forgot to clip a draw low down (2nd bolt) and on looking at the route after I got down saw I would have definitely hit the deck if I hadn’t made the clip at the third bolt. Very poor practice. It was only a grade 16 (5.9) so easy-peasy but still. Did a bunch of high teens tried a cool pumpy 23 consisting of what my friend calls ‘titty holds’. You know, those completely round tits - I mean holds that fit nicely in to an outstretched hand. It was a cool sesh. I’m back to climbing 4 days a week. I now have a goal to get super super fit and strong for Kalymnos and Poland next year. 

I’ve been at UCI hospital for the last three days. Tony’s surgeon decided to make me his special project, although I have no idea why.  Without him I never would have been admitted.  They are not in favor of the parasite theory, at least for now.  So they are running every other kind of test.  
I discovered that Tony is not great with this kind of thing. He watched his wife die after frequent hospital visits over years, but where she did not comply with a single doctors order. I told him “I’m not her.” But at the moment he’s frozen in fear. So he drove on back home.
At the moment I’m too weak to run so I’m just here. 

Lori, I hope they figure out what's wrong -- AND SOON!  

Good luck, Lori.

I'm sorry to hear this, Lori.  Hope they figure it out.

Lori, stay feisty! Hope they get it figured out soon. I'm glad you finally got admitted, at least! Hugs to you, and Tony too!

Best, Helen

Lori- heal up. I hope and pray you get much better quickly. 

Lori, Sorry that you are still dealing with this. Hope your new doctors figure this out and you feel better soon.

Lori, so sorry that you're having to deal with this.  Sending positive vibes your way.

METAMUCIL.

So far that is their expert suggestion.   

Gosh. It’s been awhile since I remembered to be grateful. I don’t want to complain when I’ve been given so much. But it’s crazy here. While waiting for a room I’ve been assigned a spot in the ED “observation area”. I’ve had 2 meals in 3 days. Bright lights all night and day, no daylight. Very sick/dying miserable people… some with sheriff supervision, some hollering all night. Halls are lined with COVID patients.

I brought a blackout mask, aroma oil (for you Russ!), headphones and my Calm App where I can listen to stories about Frida Khalo, and Sleep Meditation by Deepak Chopra all night.  The shotgun victim next to me doesn’t get it.

None of the results or final opinions are in yet. Teams of Infectious Disease and Gastroenterologist and Endocrinologist are all doing their thing and conferring.   It may be there won’t be a consensus agreement except what it’s NOT.  I guess ruling out lots of scary stuff is important.   It’s hard to fathom going home without some plan for feeling better but it may be that I just have to tread water and wait it out.  

I dreamed of throwing my arms around Old Woman last night and hugging her tight.  

Hang in there Lori. The old woman will still be there when you're better. I'll see to that   .

Lori. so sorry you are having such a rough go, Hope you heal fast and well.