Alpamayo guide? Local recommendations!

Anyone have any local (Peru) guides they have used for alpamayo that they like?  Prefer a guide that will allow us to lead some of the pitches as well-mainly want the guide for logistical support etc-but understand a fully guided trip will be necessary.  

peruandesguide.net While I did not do Alpamayo, I climbed Copa, Ishinca, and Urus with Peter in July. Can't speak highly enough of Peter, such a fun guy to climb with

Skyline Adventure School is basically the top guiding service in the area and do a lot of mountain support outside of guiding (for example, SAR, etc).  All of their guides are South American IFMGA/UIAGM with a lot of guiding and personal experience under their belts.   

They will also do logistical support and conditions consulting only, if that is all you want.  The owners/managers (Jenn and Ted) are super responsive, and are American Peruvian citizens who speak English natively.  

https://www.facebook.com/skylineadventureschool/

If you want to lead the route, there's not really a reason to hire a guide to do your logistics.  Your hotel will be happy to arrange taxis, burros, etc.

Nick Sweeneywrote:

If you want to lead the route, there's not really a reason to hire a guide to do your logistics.  Your hotel will be happy to arrange taxis, burros, etc.

I'd love to hear more about your experience regarding hotels and logistics Nick.    

Jake907wrote:

I'd love to hear more about your experience regarding hotels and logistics Nick.    

I have stayed at Casa de Zarela and Olaza's in Huaraz, both of which are popular with climbers.  Once you get there, let them know what you need and they can set it up easily - taxis, donkeys, cooks, etc.  They are more than happy to help out, I'm sure they get a small referral fee from the staff they hire.

Alpamayo is a cool mountain but not nearly the coolest objective down there in my eyes.  The basecamp is really gross/polluted with feces from both humans and pack animals.

Nick Sweeneywrote:

I have stayed at Casa de Zarela and Olaza's in Huaraz, both of which are popular with climbers.  Once you get there, let them know what you need and they can set it up easily - taxis, donkeys, cooks, etc.  They are more than happy to help out, I'm sure they get a small referral fee from the staff they hire.

Alpamayo is a cool mountain but not nearly the coolest objective down there in my eyes.  The basecamp is really gross/polluted with feces from both humans and pack animals.

What would you consider better objectives? 

Nick Sweeneywrote:

I have stayed at Casa de Zarela and Olaza's in Huaraz, both of which are popular with climbers.  Once you get there, let them know what you need and they can set it up easily - taxis, donkeys, cooks, etc.  They are more than happy to help out, I'm sure they get a small referral fee from the staff they hire.

Alpamayo is a cool mountain but not nearly the coolest objective down there in my eyes.  The basecamp is really gross/polluted with feces from both humans and pack animals.

Thanks.  Were you able to leave valuables like passport and cash at the hotel while you were on objective?  I'd like to get down there next season.

Jake907wrote:

Thanks.  Were you able to leave valuables like passport and cash at the hotel while you were on objective?  I'd like to get down there next season.

There was a somewhat secure storage room at both hotels I stayed at, but I would never go anywhere in Peru without taking my passport/cash with me.

The two that Nick mentioned are also solid climber oriented hotels. Zalera’s is probably the most known one in the area and therefore the most in demand. Missus Zalera (the owner) is very very in the know regarding climbing logistics and helps a ton of people out. She even helps with partner finding. It’s a pretty cool place to be, in general.

Another good climbing centric hotel option is Andino Club Hotel. They are a more upscale operation if you are into that vibe. I’ve stayed many nights in all the above and they are all good options.

I’ll reiterate what Nick said about passports and cash, you want that on you rather than locked away. It’s not dangerous, but losing that stuff would be rough. 

I’m planning to climb Alpamayo in the summer (2025) and would greatly appreciate any recommendations for reliable local guides.