Chipping Isn't Okay Article/Insta

Princess Puppy Lovrwrote:

Depends on the chipping. Chipping Louie style was high effort. Do you know how many drill bits and batteries it takes to make 4 glory jugs? Or how gluing on a jug would be $15.

The ten sleep/Louie situation is certainly an extreme circumstance for many reasons. I’m not sure there are many parallels to what happened with these boulders. Much of the chipping in the bouldering scenarios required no drill or “know how”. 

If anything the gumbies are the least likely to chip. First they climb in crowded areas. Second they don’t own a drill they probably don’t even know who bolts the routes. Generally the harder I climb the more pervasive route chipping is not less. I don’t know how they support people beyond climbing their routes?

I’d have to disagree with this, especially in regards to bouldering. Like I said, most of the manufacturing done to boulders did not require a drill. If we were talking about routes then yes, I agree. However, it is extremely easy for some gym idiot trying to climb a boulder to get out a hammer and go to town in order to make a sloper crux hold more incut. To make matters worse, I’ve seen (numerous times) new gumbies using super stiff plastic and/or metal brushes on super soft sandstone. While not manufacturing directly, it is definitely a problem predominantly exhibited in newer climbers. 

I agree. Mountain biking, skiing, skateboarding, dirt biking all have progressed to manufacturing their terrain to be more cutting edge.

Apples to oranges comparison for many reasons IMO. One of the main reasons being that they are typically progressing the sport in a way by making the terrain more difficult as opposed to manufacturing in climbing is typically done to make something easier. 

Its Bouldering... posted in the General Climbing forum.

The same reason I replied like this to the Alphon (whatever spelling) thread.

Edit: Maybe the suggestion to move it to the correct sub-forum was too subtle to catch. Or maybe thinking Trevor would remember general forum etiquette in posting was too ambitious... That. Definitely that.

Yes. We do rent bouldering pads. We have a love/hate relationship with bouldering. They seem to be the most clueless when it comes to wet rock issues... leading to holds breaking. That's a big problem here, but that is ignorant climbers in general and not specific to boulderers. As well, a boulderer, any boulderer, is going to have injured ankles and pulleys sooner or later... giving them no reason to buy or rent anything from a climbing gear shop.

Desert Rock Sportswrote:

Its Bouldering... posted in the General Climbing forum.

The same reason I replied like this to the Alphon (whatever spelling) thread.

This thread is pertaining to chipping in general based on a specific event that happens to be bouldering. It is more general than bouldering. 

Bouldering is super sick and I’m all about it but it’s not climbing. Different but similar pursuits. ;) in Joshua Tree there are signs for closed areas that even say “Area closed to climbing and bouldering”

Nic Gravleywrote:

Bouldering is super sick and I’m all about it but it’s not climbing. Different but similar pursuits. ;) in Joshua Tree there are signs for closed areas that even say “Area closed to climbing and bouldering”

Yeah but it should just say "closed to boulderers who have to make a new trail everytime they walk through". Anywhere you go in the desert the areas most scarred and damaged are boulder fields and ATV areas. 

I like Bisharat’s stuff.
Unlike most climbing media his writing isn’t mired in shameless boosterism.
I may disagree with him, but appreciate his willingness to engage with controversial topics. 

Princess Puppy Lovrwrote:

I agree. Mountain biking, skiing, skateboarding, dirt biking all have progressed to manufacturing their terrain to be more cutting edge.

I'm just getting into mountain biking, and I honestly dislike this trend too. Don't get me wrong, a machine-built downhill trail with pump tracks, berms, and jumps can be cool/fun, but stuff like that is not what attracted me to the activity. Give me a narrow, low-impact trail through the woods that doesn't flow well, but also doesn't feel like I'm in a theme park instead of a natural area. 

I've also enjoyed old blatantly chipped routes at places like Smith and southern France too, but I think climbing should be moving away from that stuff, we have gyms now that can create whatever movement you could possibly imagine. I'm not some trad purist, and I'll always enjoy sport climbing, but I also think the theme park feel that a lot of the most popular areas take on is a bit saddening, while also admitting that I'm absolutely part of the problem if I show up to the Happy Boulders on a sunny March weekend.

ITT: 5.9 trad dads insist bouldering isn't climbing while derailing the thread

caesar.saladwrote:

ITT: 5.9 trad dads insist bouldering isn't climbing while derailing the thread

You just need to let them know this upsets boulderers as much as fully bolting Double Cross with fat glue-ins would piss them off.

Dylan Colonwrote:

You just need to let them know this upsets boulderers as much as fully bolting Double Cross with fat glue-ins would piss them off.

Where should we stand on bolting boulder problems above 20’?

Eric Strand wrote: Trevor is obviously intelligent. He goes out of his way to speak in a way that causes some people to use their brain. Whether you agree with him or not is irrelevant. For the typical person, this pisses them off, it makes them feel stupid. So, they subliminally retaliate to the self-prescribed inferiority, calling trevor stupid because he made them feel stupid without even trying

I needed to quote this from the locked Gabby thread. No particular reason.

Climbing.com has two much much better articles on the subject than the Instagram post. And much better pictures!

Princess Puppy Lovrwrote:

This is like saying if your man parts are only 5 inches long but with some angles and a little viagra it can be 7 inches long, that 7 inches isnt even impressive. If the person read the article they would be inclined to chip a v10.

I just think that if you are going to be an alarmist about chipping at least try when you write about it.

Once a troll, always a troll.

Ezra Hendersonwrote:

Once a troll, always a troll.

Can you prove you are not a troll? Guilty till proven innocent!

Anyway people seem to be quite focused on me today rather than discussions at hand. If there was a marble statue of horrid troll holding puppies that was a established v3 (like Stalin statue in seattle) would you chip it? Or is that unethical?

Princess Puppy Lovrwrote:

Can you prove you are not a troll? Guilty till proven innocent!

Pretty sure you’ve admitted to being a troll or at least described how you troll. The verdict has long been out and your peers agree…you a troll

Anyway people seem to be quite focused on me today rather than discussions at hand. If there was a marble statue of horrid troll holding puppies that was a established v3 (like Stalin statue in seattle) would you chip it? Or is that unethical?

It’s posts like these that lead people to question your intelligence 

Princess Puppy Lovrwrote:

Can you prove you are not a troll? Guilty till proven innocent!

Ok.

This post: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/123052307/free-solo-with-a-rope

Nothing has to be said about this post.

Your comments on this post: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/123103745/i-cant-half-crimp#ForumMessage-123105150

You’re saying that you can’t do bodyweight hang with a half crimp on a 30 mm edge? But have still sent  some 13s? I have a wrist injury and can still easily do a half crimp bodyweight hang on a 15 mm edge for 10ish seconds.

You are very obviously a troll.

Princess Puppy Lovrwrote:

Can you prove you are not a troll?

Can’t prove a negative.

Ezra Hendersonwrote:

Ok.

This post: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/123052307/free-solo-with-a-rope

Nothing has to be said about this post.

Your comments on this post: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/123103745/i-cant-half-crimp#ForumMessage-123105150

You’re saying that you can’t do bodyweight hang with a half crimp on a 30 mm edge? But have still sent  some 13s? I have a wrist injury and can still easily do a half crimp bodyweight hang on a 15 mm edge for 10ish seconds.

You are very obviously a troll.

But can you one arm hang on a 30mm with three finger drag? It's almost like climbing requires technique and not just finger strength. I used to be able to hang on 7mm with two hands for 10 seconds pretty easily before I sent my first 5.12. Stronger now, but 5.12a is still hard for me. If only I knew how to climb

I don't know what you folks are trying to say with all these metric measurements and hanging times.

Pam (for example) can lead harder OWs than sport routes you can climb and she ain't crimping shit.

is this the ego jacking part of the thread