Yer gonna die myths

Princess Puppy Lovrwrote:

Some said I would die if I kept eating ice cream sandwiches at my current rate. So far not dead! 

Give it time.

Marking your rope

Washing your rope with anything but that snake oil rope cleaner 

Alpine start beer

Connor Dobsonwrote:

-not having lockers everywhere on your anchor

I saw someone use 8 lockers on a bolted multipitch anchor once. Still have a hard time remembering how they did it

Princess Puppy Lovrwrote:

Some said I would die if I kept eating ice cream sandwiches at my current rate. So far not dead! 

how many do you eat per day? i am a solid 2-a-night kind of guy (usually one mint chocate chip classic style, and maybe a tillamookie or something a little more crazy for the second one).

gear expires after 5 years

ropes only hold a few falls

soft goods last only a few seasons

helmets

slimwrote:

how many do you eat per day? i am a solid 2-a-night kind of guy (usually one mint chocate chip classic style, and maybe a tillamookie or something a little more crazy for the second one).

Probably 6-8 or about .75 quarts of ice cream per night.

myth: bunny ears figure 8 isn't redundant

check 7:03

If you don’t climb on two ropes with two belayers, tie in with backed up figure eights, Triple check everything, wear two helmets, don’t use a double rack of totems on every route you climb, sewing it up with screamers on every piece, and only use self equalizing 5 piece gear anchors, you are going to have a fatal accident while climbing, which puts other climbers and recovery/rescue personnel at risk and it will be nobody’s fault but your own. Any risk is an excessive risk.

Or, do your own thing and abide by the have fun, look good, stay safe (in that order) mentality and likely live just as long as the miserable soul doing what I described above. Yer gonna die anyways, why stress too much about how and when? Ok, maybe a little, double check those knots folks. 

Kevin DeWeese wrote:

YGD myths aren't things that absolutely can't happen, they're things that probably won't happen but people treat  them like they leave piles of bodies in their wake

Yup.  But replacing mindless protocols by turning them into never-to-be-considered myths isn't a productive approach to complexity.  A spectrum of things have been mentioned. "Overcamming" just plain doesn't weaken a placement.  Some of them, like not girth hitching a tether to the belay loop, really do make almost no sense.  Strength reduction by knots is real but of no consequence with the materials we use.  Metal on metal makes no sense, with the exception of avoiding chaining carabiners.  On the other hand, there is no question that assisted belay devices increase loads to pro; how much of a concern, if any, this should be, depends on the pro. Helmets seem like a good idea, but at least one poster has put them in the mythical category.  Shock-loading is in a class by itself, since no one seems to know what it is.

Absolute proclamations, whether pro or con, are not usually a good substitute for understanding (as best we can) the systems in question.

Kevin DeWeese wrote:

YGD myths aren't things that absolutely can't happen, they're things that probably won't happen but people treat  them like they leave piles of bodies in their wake

By that definition of “myth,” you can consider the need to wear a helmet, knot the end of your rappel ropes, double check your tie-in knot, and wear seat belts to be myths. Ignoring those practices probably won’t kill you. Nonetheless, low probability, high consequence events are worth thinking about, because they could kill you sometime.  That’s the punchline of the YGD joke - something sometime is going to get you.  

A myth is something that’s not true - “over camming a cam makes the placement weaker” is a myth. “Knots weaken rope and sling material” not a myth, it’s a fact, but not one we have to worry about with common materials in common situations. Of course, you’ld have to know something about how strong things are and how much knots weaken which materials to have the judgement to know whether or not there’s a concern. 

Yer gonna die if you don't use a grigri   

But yeah, if you ignore enough of the low(er) probability possibilities, for a long enough time, yer prolly still not gonna die... BUT, your odds will be a little more in favor of death. 

Kevin DeWeese wrote:

YGD myths aren't things that absolutely can't happen, they're things that probably won't happen but people treat  them like they leave piles of bodies in their wake

I don't think it's that uncommon though. Sure, people aren't dying from it all the time, but it is something that you should protect against when needed. You spend enough time in and around Eldo you hear some shit. 

gate flutter happened to my friend this season and he nearly decked from the top of a route 

Cheiftan Mewswrote:

I don't think it's that uncommon though. Sure, people aren't dying from it all the time, but it is something that you should protect against when needed. You spend enough time in and around Eldo you hear some shit. 

How are we still in the day and age where "hearing" some s*** is credible. Like if accidents happen, there is generally and accident report, especially if noteworthy. 

Princess Puppy Lovrwrote:

How are we still in the day and age where "hearing" some s*** is credible. Like if accidents happen, there is generally and accident report, especially if noteworthy. 

Well, not necessarily. There are plenty of ‘close calls’ or ‘incidents’ ( things that happen, such as ropes getting unclipped somehow but don’t lead to accidents or even close calls—just raised eyebrows when they are discovered) that get discussed ( ‘hearing some s***’) without resulting in accident reports or other documentation, but real nonetheless.

Princess Puppy Lovrwrote:

How are we still in the day and age where "hearing" some s*** is credible. Like if accidents happen, there is generally and accident report, especially if noteworthy. 

Yes, but, if the same events happened to Wayne Crill, except he stopped 1 foot above the deck, we would have never heard about it. For that reason, I don't think the "pile of bodies" evidence is the only thing worth considering. 

two bolt anchors must be "equalized" 

you must lower off of two opposite and opposed quickdraws at the top of a single pitch climb (do these people plan on installing a bolt next to the bolt they are bailing off of so that it's "redundant"??)

We're all gonna die.

Had two different amga rock guides scold me for girth hitching a tether to my belay loop because it “wasnt redundant”   

John Sigmonwrote:

Had two different amga rock guides scold me for girth hitching a tether to my belay loop because it “wasnt redundant”   

What did they recommend instead?