overheard at the crag: post it

Cherokee Nunes wrote:

You should have told them "I own this crag, motherfucker."

I would have just fired my crag gun. (In the air obviously) 

Mark Pilate wrote:

In a related vein, does anyone disagree that a toprope with no owner in sight is free to climb? (For anyone willing to take the risk on the overall set up).   

That's what we're supposed to do?? I been taking them home with me.

Mark Pilate wrote:

In a related vein, does anyone disagree that a toprope with no owner in sight is free to yank and put up your own rope.   

Ftfy 

J P wrote:

(btw, you still out in driftwood? my brother lived out there for a long while on cowpoke canyon rd) 

Yup. I'm about 30 minutes from there, close to the Salt Lick.

JP - which route/crag was it?

And at the risk of getting this thread back on topic - I was once witness to a car overshooting the edge of the gravel parking lot and come barreling down the steep forested slope toward the climbing area for about 100 feet before slamming head on into a 80 foot evergreen tree. All 3 occupants seemed okay, though one suffered a concussion and was taken by ambulance to a hospital (no seatbelt). Quite a strange day at the crag - for the climbers and the tow truck driver. (French's Dome, for those that know it)

^ Mordor at ozone. 

It was at a gym in Florida, not a crag, but I refuse to give up my moment of glory.

“Yeah I’ve done a lot of crack climbing outdoors, and it’s a lot of fun, but I’m not really sure how you’re supposed to climb these indoor cracks”

Erik Strand wrote:

It was at a gym in Florida, not a crag, but I refuse to give up my moment of glory.

“Yeah I’ve done a lot of crack climbing outdoors, and it’s a lot of fun, but I’m not really sure how you’re supposed to climb these indoor cracks”

Gunite takes a lot more tape than fine grained basalt or granite.

Overheard at a top-down crag while on a neighboring route: 

Climber: “I’m stuck at this part! I might just ascend the rope” 

Belayer: “Ok, go for it!”

Climber: “I don’t know how” 

Dillon Smith wrote:

Am  Nice I’m t  we. E

Dillon Smith wrote:

Am  Nice I’m t  we. E

Um, maybe not post when you’re drunk?

Marc801 C wrote:

Um, maybe not post when you’re drunk?

Dont te l my hw 2 liv meye liifes

Pocket-selecting the mountain project app, pocket-finding this thread, pocket-clicking post reply, AND THEN pocket-texting the page. That's next level! ;)

I was at a local crag that is packed with moderates.  I was going to rope solo up and run laps on a few to get some milage in.  The approach is a steap 3 mile hike and doesn't get too much traffic. 

When I get there, there were only two other guys there. They too had just arived.

As I am getting my stuff ready I see them start up a 5.8 to my left. Then as the leader gets to the first bolt I hear yelling.  The belayer has both hand on the active side of his grigri and pulling his ass off to give slack as the leader is yelling at him "This isn't a good place man,, I NEED FUCKING ROPE!" "ROPE NOW!". They finally clip the bolt and now to eliminate this issue the belayer slowly pays out a mile of slack. There is at least 6 feet laying on the ground, and still no hand on the break side.

I run over and put myself on belay and relieve him of his duty.  The leader is very frazzled, I assure him that I got him and all is now OK. The belayer tells me it it is his first time climbing, and didn't know what he was doing. 

The leader clips the perma draws at the anchor and lowers down.  They quietly pack up, drink a beer, and then explain to me they had a long day and are too "tired" to climb before they walk back down the trail.

It was the worse 'throw a noob on a grigri' I had ever seen.

Wow.

Evan LovleyMeyers wrote:

I was at a local crag that is packed with moderates.  I was going to rope solo up and run laps on a few to get some milage in.  The approach is a steap 3 mile hike and doesn't get too much traffic. 

When I get there, there were only two other guys there. They too had just arived.

As I am getting my stuff ready I see them start up a 5.8 to my left. Then as the leader gets to the first bolt I hear yelling.  The belayer has both hand on the active side of his grigri and pulling his ass off to give slack as the leader is yelling at him "This isn't a good place man,, I NEED FUCKING ROPE!" "ROPE NOW!". They finally clip the bolt and now to eliminate this issue the belayer slowly pays out a mile of slack. There is at least 6 feet laying on the ground, and still no hand on the break side.

I run over and put myself on belay and relieve him of his duty.  The leader is very frazzled, I assure him that I got him and all is now OK. The belayer tells me it it is his first time climbing, and didn't know what he was doing. 

The leader clips the perma draws at the anchor and lowers down.  They quietly pack up, drink a beer, and then explain to me they had a long day and are too "tired" to climb before they walk back down the trail.

It was the worse 'throw a noob on a grigri' I had ever seen.

I appreciate the help. My partner had a belay certification from the gym but didn’t tell me until AFTER that it was just for top roping.

Sorry we didn’t bring more beer for you; next time we’ll bring up a second six-pack.

Mark Kusnir wrote:

I appreciate the help. My partner had a belay certification from the gym but didn’t tell me until AFTER that it was just for top roping.

Sorry we didn’t bring more beer for you; next time we’ll bring up a second six-pack.

You can always stand there and make someone pay out slack and take it in to show you they know what they're doing. Paying out 50+ feet of slack is a good way to teach someone new to lead belaying. 

Mark Kusnir wrote:

 My partner had a belay certification from the gym.

Good enough for government work!

J P wrote:

Got called a "bible-thumping white supremacist" last weekend by a pair of climbers, when a group of six of us left one rope up for TR for a total of 15 minutes unattended. they never asked about the climb, never expressed interest to climb it when our first party got on, nada - just straight to accusations and a really shitty attitude.

when i tried to explain that no one else had been at that wall in any of the last 4 days of weekend climbing, so yes we took a small liberty in leaving it up, i was told that i'm "fucking gaslighting!" 

also, apparently "i travel and climb all the time to crowded crags, this [leaving a toprope up] shit only ever happens in portland" - but i guess they've never had to actually ask to queue up for a climb at a crowded crag? weird.

absolutely bat-shit interaction; no one in our group of six could ever recall experiencing such out-of-nowhere aggression in decades of climbing. 

If you come across a TR unattended and you're really that upset about it, just pull the damn rope and get on it. It's not like an unattended rope physically prevents you from climbing.

Trying a local classic boulder problem, well known for its slopers. It's called 'Sloper Dan'.

A young, confident guy says "I don't know why they call it 'Sloper Dan' when it's all crimps"

I'm speechless.