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Post Other (Not Awesome) Trad Videos Here

Jon T · · Houston, TX · Joined Jan 2020 · Points: 11
Luke Sherlock wrote:

I'll definitely practice as much as possible! Thanks for the tips you and others, I don't wanna derail this thread much more from the great topic though :)

Also keep in mind Erock isnt the most friendly place to learn, with all its gnarly spiky cracks. As I've been told, if you can place gear safely at Erock, you can place gear safely anywhere :)

Michael Abend · · Boise, ID · Joined May 2017 · Points: 60
Fehim Hasecic · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 215
Michael Abend wrote:

https://youtube.com/shorts/YxNa1FJem_4?feature=share

Not trad but holy shit! 

He dead?

Franck Vee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 260
Fehim Hasecic wrote:

He dead?

No, he posted other stuff on his "channel" afterward, and he replied to comments under that video.

I'd recommend having a look at his other videos, it's..... interesting. Seems like someone in dire need of attention.

David K · · The Road, Sometimes Chattan… · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 434
Michael Abend wrote:

https://youtube.com/shorts/YxNa1FJem_4?feature=share

Not trad but holy shit! 

Ah, so that's where that came from. I saw this in the form of a video where they dubbed over it with audio from the Alex Honnold/Magnus Mitbo free solo video. See here, it's kinda funny: youtube.com/shorts/Bia9kPnlUDk

Steven R · · Snoqualmie, WA · Joined Dec 2021 · Points: 72

I’m still a bit of a noob, but this guy’s video had me sketched out. Climbs way above a micro cam, surprised he didn’t drop his #2 at 9:22, bad placements, drops two cams on his buddy at 11:20, etc.. glad he never fell..


https://youtu.be/Hnog_3DRGPc

Jon T · · Houston, TX · Joined Jan 2020 · Points: 11
Steven R wrote:

I’m still a bit of a noob, but this guy’s video had me sketched out. Climbs way above a micro cam, surprised he didn’t drop his #2 at 9:22, bad placements, drops two cams on his buddy at 11:20, etc.. glad he never fell..


https://youtu.be/Hnog_3DRGPc

"it's fine here"

Bryan K · · Chattanooga · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 699
Steven R wrote:

I’m still a bit of a noob, but this guy’s video had me sketched out. Climbs way above a micro cam, surprised he didn’t drop his #2 at 9:22, bad placements, drops two cams on his buddy at 11:20, etc.. glad he never fell..


https://youtu.be/Hnog_3DRGPc

LOL a true classic.  Knew what vid this was just by your description.  The dude got so much crap in the comments that he eventually turned them off.  Literally everything he does is wrong.  If this dude and Billy from Stone Mountain paired up, that would be a sight to see.

Steven R · · Snoqualmie, WA · Joined Dec 2021 · Points: 72
Jon T wrote:

"it's fine here"

Letting your follower learn how to make solid placements

Evan Noronha · · Salt Lake City · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 14
Steven R wrote:

I’m still a bit of a noob, but this guy’s video had me sketched out. Climbs way above a micro cam, surprised he didn’t drop his #2 at 9:22, bad placements, drops two cams on his buddy at 11:20, etc.. glad he never fell..


https://youtu.be/Hnog_3DRGPc

"This crack protects nicely" 

*proceeds to ignore every opportunity for a truck-stop handjam*

SethG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 291

We've seen this one before right? Yeah he is terrible.

Dan D · · Colorado · Joined May 2021 · Points: 17
Steven R wrote:

I’m still a bit of a noob, but this guy’s video had me sketched out. Climbs way above a micro cam, surprised he didn’t drop his #2 at 9:22, bad placements, drops two cams on his buddy at 11:20, etc.. glad he never fell..


https://youtu.be/Hnog_3DRGPc

Steven R · · Snoqualmie, WA · Joined Dec 2021 · Points: 72
SethG wrote:

We've seen this one before right? Yeah he is terrible.

I figured as much but searching the link didn't show it, so my bad.

David K · · The Road, Sometimes Chattan… · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 434
Steven R wrote:

Goatse, is that you?

...

...the internet has ruined me.

greggrylls · · Salt Lake City · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 276

It hurts my soul when there is an obvious 10/10 nut placement near the top and he instead wiggles in a .3 places completely horizontally.  

This video is a classic.   Always makes my hands sweat.  It’s remarkable none of his pieces pull out while he is using them as a handhold…

I have seen multiple newbies do the same thing with the microcam at the traverse.  There are bomber .5-1 sized cams just out left but instead people go for the obvious .1 placement that really is not that good and then proceed to shake their way through the traverse.

Beth C · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 5
David K wrote:

Goatse, is that you?

...

...the internet has ruined me.

My brain immediately went to look for the ring and was satisfied. 

willromano · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 20



Bryan K · · Chattanooga · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 699
willromano wrote:



I think we have a new winner here.  I legit felt like I was having a panic attack at some points watching this.  Did he take a massive whipper while trying to traverse under the roof for some bizarre reason and then just cut out that part from the video?  

Franck Vee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 260

Crack gloves with a huge watch in an hand crack, then proceeds to remove the watch before he puts a single piece in, using the most-unconveniently-wrapped-double-length-slings. Good stuff.

In all fairness though, only watched the 1st bit, but ok jamming technique. Placements were decent. He was running it out a fair bit for someone who apparently is relatively new to leading on gear/didn't seem entirely comfortable higher up (?) but other than that... not awesome, but not terrible either. And Moby Grape 1st pitch at 5.8 is not a gimme either, from what I recall (though I did that years ago, maybe today I'd have a different perspective).

EDIT: Oh apparently I just didn't watch long enough to see the train wreck. Will pick it up where I left later then!

Austin Donisan · · San Mateo, CA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 752

Man that's a slow motion train wreck. I only skimmed it so sure I missed some stuff, but to save others the time (or to pique their interest):

  • Ties in with a Bowline, he must know what he's doing
  • Some sweet giant Wild Country Rocks
  • Why does he have a Fifi hook? (And what's that thing on the front-right of his harness?)
  • Massive watch to climb a handcrack, takes it off 10' up
  • Nut in a pretty parallel crack, hard to tell though
  • Better extend that first piece right off the ground it doesn't do anything
  • Kinda running it out but maybe he's solid (not really)
  • More nuts in parallel cracks despite having plenty of cams
  • Super satisfying nut at 35:20
  • Clip into the rusty button head instead of the new bolts (fixes it)
  • At the next anchor a sketchy 30 minute process to swap out 2 pieces
  • Makes his partner lead belay him with a direct belay off their all nut anchor
  • More nuts in parallel cracks
  • Doesn't pull the roof because he's afraid his hands will get stuck
  • Traverses off route, then it cuts to him 40' lower. Massive whipper?
  • Tries to boink up and fails miserably
  • Straight to bail
  • Simulrap time. I don't hate it, but he thinks that his partner getting ahead of him will pull him up somehow
  • I assumed he got lowered to the ground to climb the first pitch again for fun, but maybe he realized his partner didn't know how to rap and had to reclimb it to rescue him
  • While setting up to rap he ties into the wrong end and now has to feed the entire 60m of rope through the anchor

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