Mountain Project Logo

Post Other (Not Awesome) Trad Videos Here

Luke Sherlock · · Dallas, TX · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 5
Christopher Smithwrote:

Have you done any mock leading with a mentor judging your placements yet?  This is a really good mid step to your first trad lead.

Haven’t had the chance to yet but that’s the plan. I’ve already bouldered some short ~5.9 and 5.10 cracks at E Rock and up to V4 crack boulders. So planning on going out with a friend who has experience this fall and zipping up some climbs after following him.

Evan Noronha · · Salt Lake City · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 14
Ryan Never climbs wrote:

iv had a cam like that hold a fall

edit: yeah but if it’s all you got…

yeah but you and I both know that not all they had…

K Go · · Seattle, WA · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 170
Luke Sherlockwrote:

Haven’t had the chance to yet but that’s the plan. I’ve already bouldered some short ~5.9 and 5.10 cracks at E Rock and up to V4 crack boulders. So planning on going out with a friend who has experience this fall and zipping up some climbs after following him.

Definitely follow a bunch and take an active interest in assessing each gear placement. It's easy to mindlessly yank the gear and keep climbing, so try to slow down and look at the gear, the micro rock structure, the macro rock structure, and other options the leader could have used in the area. Even better, have a talk afterwards about each placement and the climb as a whole. 

Mock lead several times if you have a cool friend who is willing to climb twice, assuming they lead, they clean on lower, you TR and place gear, they follow clean and critique. Don't be totally winging it like the guy in these last few videos.

Luke Sherlock · · Dallas, TX · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 5
K Gowrote:

Definitely follow a bunch and take an active interest in assessing each gear placement. It's easy to mindlessly yank the gear and keep climbing, so try to slow down and look at the gear, the micro rock structure, the macro rock structure, and other options the leader could have used in the area. Even better, have a talk afterwards about each placement and the climb as a whole. 

Mock lead several times if you have a cool friend who is willing to climb twice, assuming they lead, they clean on lower, you TR and place gear, they follow clean and critique. Don't be totally winging it like the guy in these last few videos.

I'll definitely practice as much as possible! Thanks for the tips you and others, I don't wanna derail this thread much more from the great topic though :)

Jon T · · Houston, TX · Joined Jan 2020 · Points: 11
Luke Sherlockwrote:

I'll definitely practice as much as possible! Thanks for the tips you and others, I don't wanna derail this thread much more from the great topic though :)

Also keep in mind Erock isnt the most friendly place to learn, with all its gnarly spiky cracks. As I've been told, if you can place gear safely at Erock, you can place gear safely anywhere :)

Michael Abend · · Boise, ID · Joined May 2017 · Points: 60
Fehim Hasecic · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 215
Michael Abendwrote:

https://youtube.com/shorts/YxNa1FJem_4?feature=share

Not trad but holy shit! 

He dead?

Franck Vee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 260
Fehim Hasecicwrote:

He dead?

No, he posted other stuff on his "channel" afterward, and he replied to comments under that video.

I'd recommend having a look at his other videos, it's..... interesting. Seems like someone in dire need of attention.

David K · · The Road, Sometimes Chattan… · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 434
Michael Abendwrote:

https://youtube.com/shorts/YxNa1FJem_4?feature=share

Not trad but holy shit! 

Ah, so that's where that came from. I saw this in the form of a video where they dubbed over it with audio from the Alex Honnold/Magnus Mitbo free solo video. See here, it's kinda funny: youtube.com/shorts/Bia9kPnlUDk

Steven R · · Snoqualmie, WA · Joined Dec 2021 · Points: 72

I’m still a bit of a noob, but this guy’s video had me sketched out. Climbs way above a micro cam, surprised he didn’t drop his #2 at 9:22, bad placements, drops two cams on his buddy at 11:20, etc.. glad he never fell..


https://youtu.be/Hnog_3DRGPc

Jon T · · Houston, TX · Joined Jan 2020 · Points: 11
Steven Rwrote:

I’m still a bit of a noob, but this guy’s video had me sketched out. Climbs way above a micro cam, surprised he didn’t drop his #2 at 9:22, bad placements, drops two cams on his buddy at 11:20, etc.. glad he never fell..


https://youtu.be/Hnog_3DRGPc

"it's fine here"

Bryan K · · Chattanooga · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 680
Steven Rwrote:

I’m still a bit of a noob, but this guy’s video had me sketched out. Climbs way above a micro cam, surprised he didn’t drop his #2 at 9:22, bad placements, drops two cams on his buddy at 11:20, etc.. glad he never fell..


https://youtu.be/Hnog_3DRGPc

LOL a true classic.  Knew what vid this was just by your description.  The dude got so much crap in the comments that he eventually turned them off.  Literally everything he does is wrong.  If this dude and Billy from Stone Mountain paired up, that would be a sight to see.

Steven R · · Snoqualmie, WA · Joined Dec 2021 · Points: 72
Jon Twrote:

"it's fine here"

Letting your follower learn how to make solid placements

Evan Noronha · · Salt Lake City · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 14
Steven Rwrote:

I’m still a bit of a noob, but this guy’s video had me sketched out. Climbs way above a micro cam, surprised he didn’t drop his #2 at 9:22, bad placements, drops two cams on his buddy at 11:20, etc.. glad he never fell..


https://youtu.be/Hnog_3DRGPc

"This crack protects nicely" 

*proceeds to ignore every opportunity for a truck-stop handjam*

SethG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 291

We've seen this one before right? Yeah he is terrible.

Dan D · · Colorado · Joined May 2021 · Points: 17
Steven Rwrote:

I’m still a bit of a noob, but this guy’s video had me sketched out. Climbs way above a micro cam, surprised he didn’t drop his #2 at 9:22, bad placements, drops two cams on his buddy at 11:20, etc.. glad he never fell..


https://youtu.be/Hnog_3DRGPc

Steven R · · Snoqualmie, WA · Joined Dec 2021 · Points: 72
SethGwrote:

We've seen this one before right? Yeah he is terrible.

I figured as much but searching the link didn't show it, so my bad.

David K · · The Road, Sometimes Chattan… · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 434
Steven Rwrote:

Goatse, is that you?

...

...the internet has ruined me.

greggrylls · · Salt Lake City · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 276

It hurts my soul when there is an obvious 10/10 nut placement near the top and he instead wiggles in a .3 places completely horizontally.  

This video is a classic.   Always makes my hands sweat.  It’s remarkable none of his pieces pull out while he is using them as a handhold…

I have seen multiple newbies do the same thing with the microcam at the traverse.  There are bomber .5-1 sized cams just out left but instead people go for the obvious .1 placement that really is not that good and then proceed to shake their way through the traverse.

Beth C · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 5
David Kwrote:

Goatse, is that you?

...

...the internet has ruined me.

My brain immediately went to look for the ring and was satisfied. 

This topic is locked and closed to new replies.

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.