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Ideas and real use feedback for a double rope for rock routes

Original Post
Fabien M · · Cannes · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 5

2 years ago I promised myself I would never use my 60 meters Beal Gully (awesome rope btw) for anything else than ice and mixed climbing.
Sure thing I needed double 60 last weekend for a rock route (Petit capucin) and the only double 60 I own is the Beal Gully....
You know the rest, I wrecked one of the rope on the agressive granite. Not enough to compromise the rappels but enough that I want to retire the rope and remplace it and this time really stick with ice and mixed. 

So I m also on the lookout for a double 60 that could take more abuse from rock than the Gully.

I know the market of double ropes so I m not looking for a list but ideally real life experiences.
Thanks for sharing!

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

RIP the Mammut Genesis. That was the ultimate for double rope durability on rock. 

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There will likely be a chorus in this thread of posters recommending triple-rated ropes. I won't say that all triple-rated ropes are bad, but be cautious. Many of those ropes will not suit your needs.  In order to get an 8.5 mm rope to pass the UIAA single rope test, manufacturers make all sorts of compromises to "hack" the test, including decreasing sheath thickness. This negatively impacts durability. 

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Another thing to think about is the tradeoff of weight and durability. In other words, how thick to go? There's a whole range from your current 7.3 super skinny ropes, to a hefty and durable 8.7. Best option is somewhere in between, 8.0 to 8.4, depending on your priorities. The Mammut 8.0 half rope could be a good option for something still fairly skinny.

Robert Meshew · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 65

In my experience nothing beats a Mammut for wear on the smaller diameters.   I have tried every other rope brand and they look beat after a single season.  I always regret not just getting the Mammut.   

Erik Strand · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2019 · Points: 0

Anything with aramid fibers weaved into the rope 

Todd Jenkins · · Alexandria, VA · Joined Nov 2020 · Points: 16

Why are you retiring it?  Did you wear through the sheath completely?  Pics?  

Fabien M · · Cannes · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 5

Thanks for the recommandations guys!
I ll need to take a closer look but for sure I ll go with something more thick than the gully (not difficult, it's the skinniest...).
Leaning toward a Mammut ATM.

As far as pics I don't want to enter into the debate.
Yes it's very damaged.
As long as I (capital letter) don't feel safe using it anymore I (capital letter again)  will not trust the rope with my life, no matter what people on a forum can say... 

Erik Strand · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2019 · Points: 0

I’m not kidding; anything with aramid weaved into the cover will without a doubt be your best option, I just don’t remember the names of the ropes available for rock climbers. It is extremely cut resistant and it’s fairly new technology 


arborists love using sterling tritech, and teufelberger volcano 

Eli W · · Oregon · Joined Aug 2021 · Points: 0
Erik Strandwrote:

I’m not kidding; anything with aramid weaved into the cover will without a doubt be your best option, I just don’t remember the names of the ropes available for rock climbers. It is extremely cut resistant and it’s fairly new technology 


arborists love using sterling tritech, and teufelberger volcano 

Edilrid starling (half) and swift (triple) protect. Very cool, but very expensive. They definitely have an appeal for high commitment objectives, but I’m not convinced that they are a great deal in terms of $/pitch.

Erik Strand · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2019 · Points: 0
Eli Wwrote:

Edilrid starling (half) and swift (triple) protect. Very cool, but very expensive. They definitely have an appeal for high commitment objectives, but I’m not convinced that they are a great deal in terms of $/pitch.

Idk about rock climbing, but I can vouch that it seems to be 5x+ more durable than standard ropes for a lanyard in trees. Arborists don’t use it for our main lifelines, either, because of the price. One 200ft line of tritech would be like $6-800

old5ten · · Sunny Slopes + Berkeley, CA · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 5,881
Eli Wwrote:

Edilrid starling (half) and swift (triple) protect. Very cool, but very expensive. They definitely have an appeal for high commitment objectives, but I’m not convinced that they are a great deal in terms of $/pitch.

https://www.oliunid.com/equipment/climbing-ropes/corde-dinamiche/edelrid-starling-pro-dry-8-2-mm-climbing-half-rope.html

never dealt with this company before, but others on MP have sung their praises.  the price is more than reasonable imho...

Erik Strand · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2019 · Points: 0
old5tenwrote:

https://www.oliunid.com/equipment/climbing-ropes/corde-dinamiche/edelrid-starling-pro-dry-8-2-mm-climbing-half-rope.html

never dealt with this company before, but others on MP have sung their praises.  the price is more than reasonable imho...

Wrong rope. It’s still affordable though 

https://www.oliunid.com/edelrid-starling-protect-pro-dry-8-2-mm-climbing-half-rope.html

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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