Ideas and real use feedback for a double rope for rock routes
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2 years ago I promised myself I would never use my 60 meters Beal Gully (awesome rope btw) for anything else than ice and mixed climbing. So I m also on the lookout for a double 60 that could take more abuse from rock than the Gully. I know the market of double ropes so I m not looking for a list but ideally real life experiences. |
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RIP the Mammut Genesis. That was the ultimate for double rope durability on rock. --- There will likely be a chorus in this thread of posters recommending triple-rated ropes. I won't say that all triple-rated ropes are bad, but be cautious. Many of those ropes will not suit your needs. In order to get an 8.5 mm rope to pass the UIAA single rope test, manufacturers make all sorts of compromises to "hack" the test, including decreasing sheath thickness. This negatively impacts durability. --- Another thing to think about is the tradeoff of weight and durability. In other words, how thick to go? There's a whole range from your current 7.3 super skinny ropes, to a hefty and durable 8.7. Best option is somewhere in between, 8.0 to 8.4, depending on your priorities. The Mammut 8.0 half rope could be a good option for something still fairly skinny. |
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In my experience nothing beats a Mammut for wear on the smaller diameters. I have tried every other rope brand and they look beat after a single season. I always regret not just getting the Mammut. |
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Anything with aramid fibers weaved into the rope |
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Why are you retiring it? Did you wear through the sheath completely? Pics? |
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Thanks for the recommandations guys! As far as pics I don't want to enter into the debate. |
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I’m not kidding; anything with aramid weaved into the cover will without a doubt be your best option, I just don’t remember the names of the ropes available for rock climbers. It is extremely cut resistant and it’s fairly new technology
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Erik Strandwrote: Edilrid starling (half) and swift (triple) protect. Very cool, but very expensive. They definitely have an appeal for high commitment objectives, but I’m not convinced that they are a great deal in terms of $/pitch. |
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Eli Wwrote: Idk about rock climbing, but I can vouch that it seems to be 5x+ more durable than standard ropes for a lanyard in trees. Arborists don’t use it for our main lifelines, either, because of the price. One 200ft line of tritech would be like $6-800 |
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Eli Wwrote: never dealt with this company before, but others on MP have sung their praises. the price is more than reasonable imho... |
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old5tenwrote: Wrong rope. It’s still affordable though https://www.oliunid.com/edelrid-starling-protect-pro-dry-8-2-mm-climbing-half-rope.html |




