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Brazilian Climber in USA

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Vinny F · · Denver, CO · Joined Oct 2021 · Points: 0

Hey guys,

Not sure this is the right place to post this, but here it goes!
Just arrived in North Carolina (greensboro area) to visit some relatives, currently on a gap year after college and some work time. Decided to use this time to come to the US, get a trailer and travel across this country, visiting the beautiful landscapes you guys have! I’m interested in visiting national parks and crags while I’m here.

My plan is to start August 2nd and travel towards the west, where I plan to spend most of my 5 months here. So long, on the trip from NC to Boulder, where I’m “stationing myself” I’m thinking about spending 5 nights in New River Gorge and one week in Red River Gorge. Then hiting Chattanooga in Tenessee for a couple of days. Then heading towards Denver. Any other stops somebody would recommend? Any tips for a foreign climber in the US? Also, anyone up for some climbing in these places in August?
Sorry for the long post!
Cheers,
Vinny

june m · · elmore, vt · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 124

Pretty hot and humid  for climbing in the south east in august, I would head north or north west

Vinny F · · Denver, CO · Joined Oct 2021 · Points: 0

Hey June, thanks for answering. Would you recommend any places/crags?

ClimbingOn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 0

I agree with those areas absolutely not being in season. This time of year I'd recommend heading to Squamish in BC (Canada) or Tuolumne in California (the high country of Yosemite). You could also make do with many of the higher elevation crags in California, although not too many of them are worth traveling long distances to. Since you do not have a partner, the best places that are "in season" are where the most climbers will be, and where you'll be most able to find partners. If you find a good partner in Squamish the Bugaboos would be a good destination as well.

I'd certainly recommend skipping the New and the Red and Chatt during August, although I'm sure some locals will chime in and say it's not too bad at 5am or something like that.

Arthur W · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 5

Yosemite is on fire.

saign charlestein · · Tacoma WA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 2,077

A lot depends on what you want to climb, but generally:


August/September : lander, tensleep, index, Squamish 

Sept/October: September could still be hot and staying north is probably recommended, but by the end and into October most crags should be prime.

November could still be prime or it could get cold and now you want to start moving south. Smith, Indian creek, red rock, Joshua  tree.

By December you’re looking at the south desert crags. Same as above but add in crags surrounding Tucson, Hueco tanks or even down to Mexico.

Terry E · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 43
Arthur Wwrote:

Yosemite is on fire.

More accurately, depending on which way the wind is blowing, Yosemite Valley and Tuolumne Meadows may be impacted by smoke.  The Washburn Fire is the only fire burning inside the Park boundaries at the moment and yesterday was 79% contained. The Oak Fire near Midpines started July 22 and is certainly a huge concern. It's about 8 miles outside Park boundaries now..

The webcams at the link below are good for getting a bit of an idea about smoke at certain locations in Yosemite:

https://www.nps.gov/yose/learn/photosmultimedia/webcams.htm

Arthur W · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2017 · Points: 5
Terry Ewrote:

More accurately, depending on which way the wind is blowing, Yosemite Valley and Tuolumne Meadows may be impacted by smoke.  The Washburn Fire is the only fire burning inside the Park boundaries at the moment and yesterday was 79% contained. The Oak Fire near Midpines started July 22 and is certainly a huge concern. It's about 8 miles outside Park boundaries now..

The webcams at the link below are good for getting a bit of an idea about smoke at certain locations in Yosemite:

https://www.nps.gov/yose/learn/photosmultimedia/webcams.htm

Sorry, I’m such a downer. 

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

Vinny - what climbing styles (boulder, sport, trad?) and grades are are you looking for? The more specific you can be, the better advice you will get.

Are you just looking for places to go for August, or through the fall and winter also?

For August, most of what is in the Southeast, including the Red and the New, will be hot, humid, and buggy. Since you are planning to drive to CO eventually anyway, I'd recommend you skip the Southeast climbing (for now at least) and drive west immediately at the start of your trip. Go to Colorado or Wyoming to start. Lots of good summer climbing in both places. Where exactly to go depends on what you are looking for. Lacking any other information, my generalized recommendation would be to go to Tensleep (Wyoming). Great sport climbing, range of grades, good in August, nice camping, lots of people to climb with.

Other places like Squamish are nice also, but are a much longer drive from NC. Colorado and/or Wyoming are a good starting point since they are the first good summer climbing you hit as you drive west.

nbrown · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 8,357

Vinny,

I currently live in CO but grew up climbing in NC. While it isn't the best season for climbing in NC, the rock is very good there. Unless you're looking for pure sport climbing areas, I'd highly recommend at least taking a look around before you leave the state. Moore's Wall (~ 1 hr from Greensboro), Linville Gorge, Ship Rock, and many others are far better than many of "popular" crags you'll find out West. The West is definitely more amenable to road tripping, but don't short change yourself.

Feel free to give me a shout if you want specific recommendations, in NC or CO.

Vinny F · · Denver, CO · Joined Oct 2021 · Points: 0

Hey guys! First of all, I really appreciate all of you taking some time to answer me!

 Still deciding on the crags to hit on my way to Colorado. I’m mostly looking for some sport and trad while I travel here. I am currently reracking myself up with some trad gear since I only brought some lighter equipment (harness, some slings/quickdraws, multichain, atc/grigri and shoes). Also, I’m thinking of getting a crashpad in case I don’t have a partner (not sure how partner finding goes around here), then I could still go for some climbing.

As for grades, currently into 5.11s for trad and 5.12s for sport. Though what really matters to me is getting to know new places and meet new people, I’ll  be happy just to get outdoors  :)

I’m really pleased with you all taking some time out of your day to read my post and give me some advice! 

Hope all of you have a good week!

Cheers

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
Vinny Fwrote:

in case I don’t have a partner (not sure how partner finding goes around here), then I could still go for some climbing....Though what really matters to me is getting to know new places and meet new people, 

Your best option as a solo traveller for meeting people and finding partners is to visit major destinations, with a central climbers campground, during peak season. This makes it super easy. Just go to the campground, talk to people, and soon enough you'll have friends and climbing partners. This is a much better experience and more reliable than scrounging for partners on the internet.

 A few of the best options include:

Tensleep, Rifle, Maple, and Squamish in the summer.

Red River Gorge, New River Gorge, Indian Creek, Smith, and Yosemite in spring/fall

Joshua Tree, Bishop, Hueco, and Potrero Chico in the winter

Just to name a few. There are other good spots, but these are the best. If you go to these places, in the right season, you'll easily find partners every day you wish to climb, and enjoy a great social scene. 

There are many great climbing areas to choose from that are less popular or more spread out, but as a solo traveller they can be a lonelier experience and not as easy to find partners. Which some can make work, but if you want a lively social scene and easy partner finding, head to areas like those named above.

Terry E · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 43

^ Excellent advice!

nbrown · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 8,357
Rob Dillon wrote:

Someone take this guy to Hawksbill!

Yeah buddy!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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