How do I ascend a fixed 6 mm tagline?
|
|
How do I ascend a fixed 6 mm tagline? |
|
|
Cautiously! Ascenders will work, a Micro/Nano Trax will work. |
|
|
So. I posted this because of something written in Andy Kirkpatrick's Me, Myself & I in regards to bailing off of a solo wall. "A 60 metre lead, haul and zip line will get you a long way down of any wall ... believe me. You can rap with a bag if you want (holding all your personal stuff), leaving your food and water on the wall. Once down, at least you have the option to decide that you want in, or return to retrieve the rest of your kit when things are less frantic." The idea of ascending a 6 mm line to retrieve my stuff seems terrifying to me, but that's what Andy Kirkpatrick is saying. Thanks for responding so quickly by the way. |
|
|
Maybe ask what would you not do / do differently compared to what you would normally do w a larger diameter cord, and why? I can’t think of much other than focus more on rebelay / edges and backup knots (keeping in mind static/dynamic character of the 6mm cord). Also I’d prefer progress capture with toothed devices vs a grigri/ roll ‘n lock etc. And pucker up. And if it’s not on purpose figure out what I could differently next time to avoid getting in that situation in the first place. Edit: basically what Mark said in fewer words. |
|
|
I wouldn’t want to be carrying much weight! |
|
|
I was initially thinking that I would need to avoid proper ascenders and toothed devices and use something like a garda hitch with an ATC in guide mode and backup knots. Maybe throw 2 lockers into the ATC guide for more friction. The rebelay idea did not occur to me. I usually think of that as something that prevents the rope from sliding down through a solo system, but it also would prevent rubbing on edges, right? |
|
|
Ideally you don't ascend a fixed 6mm rope at all. |
|
|
It also probably depends on what it's made of and how it was constructed. They're not all created equally. |
|
|
|
|
|
I couldn't resist a little test. I shredded some 6 mm cord with an old CAMP ascender. I attached the ascender to my harness with a single carabiner and clamped it to the 6 mm accessory cord. Then I put my full weight on the ascender and body bounced it. After a few hard body bounces I could hear the sheath ripping and at bounce 8 I totally de-sheathed the accessory cord. This was enough to convince me that it would be a very bad idea to attempt ascenders on a 6 mm tagline. I was trying to rip it, so maybe in a real situation I would be putting less force on it, but still. I think I would use a different method. I weight around 165 pounds. If you want to see the video, send me a message (these are screenshots). Before After De-sheathed |
|
|
Dang! Thanks for the test! |
|
|
I’d be curious to see if it changed with a more modern tag line. (Not just 6mm cord, but something more purpose built like a rad line, pure line, or rap II) I bet it’d do better, but regardless, ascending very carefully and not making a habit of it (and placing pro and taking a belay) seem like good life choices. |
|
|
Part of alpine climbing is being strong enough to carry the gear you need. |
|
|
Last weekend my friends and I ascended a slab(ish) route using a 65m, 8mm static cord using ascender and micro traction. Cord was light and compact. We did this several times hauling heavy packs, no issues or visible damage. The cord also worked great for raps, tends to tangle if you don’t mind it. |
|
|
Pete Swrote: 8mm feels like a long way from 6mm |
|
|
In the quote from Kirkpatrick he never suggests ascending a tagline! |
|
|
JaredGwrote: Like 25% or more... |
|
|
8 is 33% greater than 6. But you need to consider area, so a 8mm cord would be 78% greater than a 6mm cord. |
|
|
Kim Suzannewrote: Area = π·(d/2)^2 = 3.14·(6/2)^2 = 3.14·(3)^2 = 28.27 square mm Area = π·(d/2)^2 = 3.14·(8/2)^2 = 3.14·(4)^2 = 50.27 square mm Percent increase = [(new value - original value)/original value] * 100 [(50.27 - 28.27)/28.27] * 100 = 77.82% therefore an 8mm diameter line x-section has 78% more area than a 6mm line |
|
|
rocknice2wrote: I’m willing to pack a bit more weight and have a safe usable cord. What’s the equation for near certain death on 6mm? |
|
|
Patsywrote: you don't... |







