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How do I ascend a fixed 6 mm tagline?

Original Post
Patsy · · Merced · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 0

How do I ascend a fixed 6 mm tagline?

Mark Hudon · · Reno, NV · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

Cautiously!

Ascenders will work, a Micro/Nano Trax will work.

Patsy · · Merced · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 0

So. I posted this because of something written in Andy Kirkpatrick's Me, Myself & I in regards to bailing off of a solo wall.

"A 60 metre lead, haul and zip line will get you a long way down of any wall ... believe me. You can rap with a bag if you want (holding all your personal stuff), leaving your food and water on the wall. Once down, at least you have the option to decide that you want in, or return to retrieve the rest of your kit when things are less frantic."

The idea of ascending a 6 mm line to retrieve my stuff seems terrifying to me, but that's what Andy Kirkpatrick is saying. 

Thanks for responding so quickly by the way.

Andy Wiesner · · New Paltz, NY · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 35

Maybe ask what would you not do / do differently compared to what you would normally do w a larger diameter cord, and why? I can’t think of much other than focus more on rebelay / edges and backup knots (keeping in mind static/dynamic character of the 6mm cord). Also I’d prefer progress capture with toothed devices vs a grigri/ roll ‘n lock etc. And pucker up. And if it’s not on purpose figure out what I could differently next time to avoid getting in that situation in the first place.

Edit: basically what Mark said in fewer words. 

Mark Hudon · · Reno, NV · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

I wouldn’t want to be carrying much weight!

Patsy · · Merced · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 0

I was initially thinking that I would need to avoid proper ascenders and toothed devices and use something like a garda hitch with an ATC in guide mode and backup knots. Maybe throw 2 lockers into the ATC guide for more friction.

The rebelay idea did not occur to me. I usually think of that as something that prevents the rope from sliding down through a solo system, but it also would prevent rubbing on edges, right?

Desert Rock Sports · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 2

Ideally you don't ascend a fixed 6mm rope at all.

Maybe have a partner belay you on a second rope and put in some pro as you ascend as smoothly as possible.

Max Tepfer · · Bend, OR · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 3,633

It also probably depends on what it's made of and how it was constructed.  They're not all created equally.

Marc H · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 265
Patsy · · Merced · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 0

I couldn't resist a little test. I shredded some 6 mm cord with an old CAMP ascender. I attached the ascender to my harness with a single carabiner and clamped it to the 6 mm accessory cord. Then I put my full weight on the ascender and body bounced it. After a few hard body bounces I could hear the sheath ripping and at bounce 8 I totally de-sheathed the accessory cord.

This was enough to convince me that it would be a very bad idea to attempt ascenders on a 6 mm tagline. I was trying to rip it, so maybe in a real situation I would be putting less force on it, but still. I think I would use a different method.

I weight around 165 pounds.

If you want to see the video, send me a message (these are screenshots).

Before

After

De-sheathed

Mark Hudon · · Reno, NV · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

Dang! Thanks for the test! 

Max Tepfer · · Bend, OR · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 3,633

I’d be curious to see if it changed with a more modern tag line.  (Not just 6mm cord, but something more purpose built like a rad line, pure line, or rap II) I bet it’d do better, but regardless, ascending very carefully and not making a habit of it (and placing pro and taking a belay) seem like good life choices. 

Stiles · · the Mountains · Joined May 2003 · Points: 845

Part of alpine climbing is being strong enough to carry the gear you need.  

Pete S · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 223

Last weekend my friends and I ascended a slab(ish) route using a 65m, 8mm static cord using ascender and micro traction.  Cord was light and compact.  We did this several times hauling heavy packs, no issues or visible damage.  The cord also worked great for raps, tends to tangle if you don’t mind it.  

JaredG · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 17
Pete Swrote:

Last weekend my friends and I ascended a slab(ish) route using a 65m, 8mm static cord using ascender and micro traction. 

8mm feels like a long way from 6mm

Luke F · · Zürich · Joined May 2012 · Points: 0

In the quote from Kirkpatrick he never suggests ascending a tagline! 

Kim Suzanne · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2021 · Points: 0
JaredGwrote:

8mm feels like a long way from 6mm

Like 25% or more...

rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847

8 is 33% greater than 6. But you need to consider area, so a 8mm cord would be 78% greater than a 6mm cord.

yukonjack · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 15
Kim Suzannewrote:

Like 25% or more...

Area = π·(d/2)^2 = 3.14·(6/2)^2 = 3.14·(3)^2 = 28.27 square mm 

Area = π·(d/2)^2 = 3.14·(8/2)^2 = 3.14·(4)^2 = 50.27 square mm 

Percent increase = [(new value - original value)/original value] * 100

[(50.27 - 28.27)/28.27] * 100 = 77.82%

therefore an 8mm diameter line x-section has 78% more area than a 6mm line

Pete S · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 223
rocknice2wrote:

8 is 33% greater than 6. But you need to consider area, so a 8mm cord would be 78% greater than a 6mm cord.

I’m willing to pack a bit more weight and have a safe usable cord.   What’s the equation for near certain death on 6mm? 

curt86iroc · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 274
Patsywrote:

How do I ascend a fixed 6 mm tagline?

you don't...

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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