Sport harnesses with large gear loops for occasional trad.

James Mwrote:

https://www.backcountrygear.com/energy-cr-4-harness/?sku=CAM4E44905-GREY-L1-M/XL&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIib6es_6i-AIVTciUCR0gPgNlEAQYAiABEgL_1_D_BwE

Camp energy CR4 harness. Light, double adjustable to keep gear loops centered, decently comfortable and super affordable. 

I picked up an energy cr4 as a loaner since it was cheap, lightly padded, and very adjustable, and the belay loop is not particularly confidence inspiring. Two layers of flat/non-tubular webbing with three bartacks. If it was my primary harness I’d be very concerned about the belay loop wearing prematurely.

Bryan Kwrote:

I bought a BD solution as a sport harness thinking I would buy a 2nd one for trad, but I love it so much that I only climb in it and do lots of trad and multipitch in Red Rock.  It's super comfy and even with a heavy rack it sits comfortably on your hips.  I will say that BD's gear loops are a bit puny which isn't ideal, but I've still never had issues fitting a double rack on it by just racking differently (clip doubles together).

Pretty tough to beat the Solution for versatility, comfort, and value. As if not more comfy than Arc IMO. It doesn't have ice clipper slots, but if you want a true quiver killer (and to spend Arc money) look for the Airnet Alpine coming out this fall. Light AF, relatively comfy and does it all.

Thanks every for all the responses. I didn't realize that MP limits the number of replies I can do in a day so I can't respond to every one. Big thanks for all the advice. 

Gunkiemikewrote:

I'm totally failing to see what the problem is climbing a sport route in a trad harness.  Is 50 - 100g more really going to shut you down?  You've got that much mass in your bladder and/or rectum.

 I don't disagree. It's not a huge deal. For me it is not about the grams though, it is about the rigidity and bulk that I find restricting in my current harness. Maybe this is not a trad harness issue and more specific to me not liking the fit of mine. Since I've been mostly sport climbing recently, I'd just like to try something new. Will it make me climb a grade harder? Of course not, but I've been climbing for too long to have only tried one type of harness and would like to see if there is something better for me out there.

J Bwrote:

Arcteryx harnesses run huge but their size chart seems accurate. Follow that and you should be OK.

Looks like I am write on the line of small and medium. If they run huge, should I downsize?

Michael Smalleywrote:

But, if your goal is primarily sport climbing with just the occasional 5-7 pitch route then you could do far worse than the Adjama.

That is exactly the goal

Dan Danwrote:

The new Petzl Aquila/Hirundos look super promising. MEC has that they're made in Canada on their site. I have been checking other places to try and confirm it's true but haven't seen anything yet. If someone sees where they're made let me know, because if it's true they could be a really good Arc rival.

Yes. I've seen complaints about the old Aquila, but to me the new one looks sweet. But can't find any reviews from people who have actually worn it. Let me know if you get to try one out.

To all the Sama recommendations, I think it's just the fixed leg loop version of the Adjama. I think I'd lean towards adjustable, but pretty sure there is a shop near me where I can try both on so I'll see if the fixed leg loops fit me well.

Didn't see it mentioned, so I thought I'd add it to the roster: Wild Country Mosquito

Just got it about a month ago and it's done a great job with loads of gear. The front two loops are oriented really nicely for racking and can easily fit a single rack on either side. Plenty of space on the back loops for draws and anchor-building as well. 

I was worried it wouldn't have enough space for larger trad adventures, but after several trips I think it's going to be my all-around harness until it wears out! Very comfy despite being an ultralight design. It also packs up nice and tight when you need it to

Sizing: I'm a 31/32 waist in most pants and a medium is just barely small enough for me when cinched all the way. Perfect fit when I have a couple layers on 

I don't have any thoughts/experience with the harnesses mentioned in the OP but some people have suggested BD's Solution Guide. I started a thread about the Solution Guide inquiring about comfort and ended up buying one to replace a Yates Astroman. Compared to the Astroman, the Guide is super light and minimal, and surprisingly comfortable, given that it looks so flimsy. For me, it will make a great sport harness. Not as comfortable as the Astroman for hanging (working on new routes etc.) and the gear loops not as handy for clipping stuff. ( Also, in the medium, the clips on 1 side are a little too far back.) 

I don't understand clipping a rack, let alone doubles, on a harness. Doesn't anyone carry the rack on a shoulder sling anymore? What are people doing when swapping leads? Any way, I must be giving my age away here, and I'm not meaning to be harshing someones choices (and I have no doubt the subject has been discussed ad infinitum on here before) but I don't rack on the harness so have no opinion on that need.

Daniel Navarrowrote:

 I don't disagree. It's not a huge deal. For me it is not about the grams though, it is about the rigidity and bulk that I find restricting in my current harness. Maybe this is not a trad harness issue and more specific to me not liking the fit of mine. 

I love running the FL-365 for long trad/bigwall routes and it's just barely comfortable enough to hang out in all day long. a-395 isn't necessary for most people unless you have huge legs, as the stretchy material in the 365 usually keeps the leg loops snug (enough for me, at least). FL-365 is one of the most comfortable, and non-restrictive, harnesses on the market.

Looks like I am write on the line of small and medium. If they run huge, should I downsize?

Def run the larger size, I tried downsizing and it drives me crazy how it puts the gear loops further back, to the point where the second gear loop is almost impossible to effectively use, without stopping and twisting my torso all around to see what I'm grabbing.

Christian Heschwrote:

395 isn't necessary for most people unless you have huge legs, as the stretchy material in the 365 usually keeps the leg loops snug (

The 395a is my all time favorite harness for most things and this is one of the big reasons I prefer it over the 365. I also do a lot of cycling so my thighs are big relative to my waist size - I’ve never found an elastic-only leg loop that fit really well and defer to a buckle based leg loop when I can. For those it fits, the 365 was awesome but if you know you have bigger leg to waist ratio or aren’t sure the 395 style with buckles is always the safest bet.

Heyzeuswrote:

I don't understand clipping a rack, let alone doubles, on a harness. Doesn't anyone carry the rack on a shoulder sling anymore? What are people doing when swapping leads? Any way, I must be giving my age away here, and I'm not meaning to be harshing someones choices (and I have no doubt the subject has been discussed ad infinitum on here before) but I don't rack on the harness so have no opinion on that need.

Just personal comfort. I'll put slings over my shoulder and maybe some smaller gear if I'm carrying a massive desert rack or something. Normally though I just don't like the weight of doubles hanging essentially off of my neck. I'd much rather have most of that weight evenly distributed near my waist. Chimneys and dihedrals being exceptions obviously since I'll want most my gear accessible on one side of my body.

As for swapping leads, just prep the remaining rack while your follower is coming up. Only adds 30 or so seconds for an efficient team.

Michael Smalleywrote:

Just personal comfort. I'll put slings over my shoulder and maybe some smaller gear if I'm carrying a massive desert rack or something. Normally though I just don't like the weight of doubles hanging essentially off of my neck. I'd much rather have most of that weight evenly distributed near my waist. Chimneys and dihedrals being exceptions obviously since I'll want most my gear accessible on one side of my body.

As for swapping leads, just prep the remaining rack while your follower is coming up. Only adds 30 or so seconds for an efficient team.

For me it's organization - on a sling all the the gear flows to my hip and I lose track of which cam is where, meaning I typically have to physically look down and thumb through them. Generally I'm good enough about the organization of the gear on my harness that I know exactly where everything is and don't have to look down until I'm running out of gear and am unsure what I even have left.

Elijah Bensonwrote:

I haven't seen it mentioned yet, but the Blue Ice Cuesta feels like you're wearing a cloud and catches like you're proverbially falling into one. Only four loops, but they're sizable and well positioned. I can't say enough positive things about this harness.

I saw a good deal on this one and tried it on. It's very light and comfortable. Compared to the WC mosquito, I found it to be much more comfortable for my body shape. I like everything about the harness but the rear gear loops. They're a little small and feel positioned pretty far back. I tried fitting on a double rack .3-3, nuts, and 12 draws and this took up all the gear loop space. There would be space for belay device, anchor material, etc, but it would start getting really crammed. My other complaint is that the rear loops are far enough back that I can't really see them unless I really contort myself and that is with the harness fully tightened (Im at the small end of the range). Otherwise, I really like the harness.

Elijah, I'm curious if you've had any issues climbing with a double rack in terms of space and trying to access items off the back loops. Can't tell if I'm being over nitpicky or not. Also, how is the durability? For others, this seems like a great light weight harness if you're not often loading it with a ton of gear.

Dan Danwrote:

The new Petzl Aquila/Hirundos look super promising. MEC has that they're made in Canada on their site. I have been checking other places to try and confirm it's true but haven't seen anything yet. If someone sees where they're made let me know, because if it's true they could be a really good Arc rival.

If carrying a large trad rack is your main objective I'd steer clear of the Hirundos. I own a previous gen Hirundos and it's a great quiver-of-one harness but the rear gear loops are small and hard to access - and the new one doesn't look all that different in this regard. 

The Aquila looks a little bit better in terms of size and number of gear loops. 

MauryBwrote:

Pretty tough to beat the Solution for versatility, comfort, and value. As if not more comfy than Arc IMO. It doesn't have ice clipper slots, but if you want a true quiver killer (and to spend Arc money) look for the Airnet Alpine coming out this fall. Light AF, relatively comfy and does it all.

Airnet Alpine - do pics or any more info exist? Can you clue us in whether 4 gear loops will all be rigid and whether it will have a rear 5th?

I am another person in camp love for the Arc'teryx C-quence. I had this same question a few months ago and tried on quite a few harnesses but ended up in the C-quence. It is super comfortable and has a lot of space for gear but I don't even notice it is there. I can easily load it up with a double rack and it carries it very well. I have no complaints with it. I haven't worn the other Arc'teryx harnesses outside of the store but I can say I like the gear loops on the C-quence more than the 395/365. 

Not reading. The answer is any harness.

I'm also a C-quence user.  I don't really see any downsides for sport climbing and I really like the gear loops for a full compliment of trad gear.  I wasn't convinced at first because it was squeezing me in uncomfortable ways but now that the leg loops have broken in I don't seem to have that problem any more.  It packs relatively small and is light enough that I consider taking it sometimes when my alpine harness would be my normal choice.  

As for sizing I did find the Arcteryx size chart to be accurate and was surprised by the size that put me at, I think it was a size or two down from what I normally wear in a Mammut harness.  I find that I like to fit at the small end of a size to leave room to layer jackets in winter but also because I like the wide part of the belt to close all the way around my waist.  If the belt doesn't close all the way then it puts the loops further back on my hips than I like.

I was out with someone that had the 395a over the weekend and I think the gear loops are the same between that and the C-quence.  As far as I can tell the only appreciable difference is the adjustable leg loops but I haven't handled them both at the same time.

My only real complaint with the C-quence is that the elastic straps on the drop legs come loose and the leg loops fall lower than I like them.  To make things worse this seems to be a problem more on the left side than on the right side and having them offset drives me nuts.  It's a personal issue. :D

Seems nobody talk about tht camp alpine flash. So I own one, along with a BD solution. Sport and trad with both of them for years now. Both are good, solution is more comfortable when alpine flash is more versatile. I would prefer camp for trad and BD for sport. camp 's gear loops are not as big as Arc's in my opinion, but double rack is not a problem if you not carrying extra slings/biners/quards/talkies. And it has 5th loop to put anchor. I do Ice climb so ice clippers are there all the time for me to put draws, so I can take double rack with couple more biners/slings/talkie on it to make it full.

If anyone is interested, I've made a decision, which wound up being pretty different from where I started, but thanks for the info everyone as it was challenging not living near a gear shop with a good selection. My previous two harnesses were a 10 year old BD momentum, which was long overdue for retirement and a 5 year old Petzl Corax, which has a few years left in it, but I find to be very uncomfortable when loaded with with trad gear.

My top two choices wound up being Aquila and AR395A however after waiting for over a month, neither came back in stock in the US and an arcteryx rep had told me it would by the end of June. I wound up being able to try on the Blue Ice Cuesta, WC Mosquito and DMM renegade. The Mosquito did not fit me well. The Cuesta and renegade are completely different harnesses but both were very comfortable. The cuesta is not at all what I originally imagined getting being a pretty minimalist lightweight harness but I found it on sale for $55 and it is very comfortable. I've decided to keep the cuesta and use it for gym, sport and single pitch trad where I'm bringing a lighter rack. When I plan to bring more gear, I'll just stick with my old corax for a few more years until it needs to be retired and then probably get a renegade as my trad harness unless something new comes out that I like. This will all still cost less than the AR395A.

james jameswrote:

Airnet Alpine - do pics or any more info exist? Can you clue us in whether 4 gear loops will all be rigid and whether it will have a rear 5th?

Don't think I can share pics, but to answer your questions: yes, 4 thin molded gear loops and a rear 5th lightweight string loop. More generous fit than the original airNet as well. 

I would say misty mountain all the way. I did get an arcteryx 395 and found it to be VERY uncomfortable to hang in. 

J Bwrote:

Arcteryx harnesses run huge but their size chart seems accurate. Follow that and you should be OK. Just be warned the C-Quence is a love/hate for people, personally it smashes my jewels. The 395a is a safer bet fit wise. I'd avoid the Konseal until we know more, it looks weird/seems to have too much padding. 

Seems like a lot of folks have them kicking around so might worth posting WTB for one if you're comfortable with a used harness. 

I found a new FL-365 on a random streetwear site recently (it seemed very strange) so don't limit your search to mountain project.  

Good luck in your quest to find an Arcteryx harness. 

C-Quence = jewel crushing...... SAME!

I replaced an aging 395 with a C-Q and I'm damn near ready to toss it onto the for sale bin....  still have a grey 395 with lots of life that I use outdoors.