overheard at the crag: post it

Colonel Mustard wrote:

Who is commonly bringing a single rack? That idea makes me want to vomit. Rope or rack only, for the love of Pete.

Who climbs with people that leave from the same domicile? That sounds disgusting. Lol.

Colonel Mustard wrote:

Who is commonly bringing a single rack? That idea makes me want to vomit. Rope or rack only, for the love of Pete.

Having a rack of Totems friends will often want to use their gear but plus my Totems. I try to convince everyone to use my rack of Dragons as once you get used to them there's no going back, but quite a lot of people have a strong preference for thumb loops and my rack of C4s are loaned out to a random buddy half the time as I don't like the fuckers, so I guess the answer to your question is *raises hand* 

Colonel Mustard wrote:

Who is commonly bringing a single rack? That idea makes me want to vomit. Rope or rack only, for the love of Pete.

Partners who insist on also using their shitty, 20 year-old gear 

Jfc do we need a new “overheard” thread so y’all can keep jerking over pedantic trad terms here? Feeling like the meme thread.

Anyway, i have another contribution after yesterday’s sesh. 

Random climber is spraying about all the V8+ problems he had dialed, then later my climbing partner overheard the guy talking about how he hadn’t finished a certain (non-sandbagged) v4.

Partner: “why haven’t you sent that? That’s literally half your send grade! What’s shutting you down?”

Guy: “well I haven’t actually sent a v8 yet. I’ve done half here, and then the other half separately.”

Partner: “so what do you actually climb then? What have you sent?”

Guy: *silence, no responses.* *slinks away*

Just a reminder, there’s no cheating in climbing, just lying. 

Crimpin Ain't Easy wrote:

You coulda went one step further as a climber. "For the love of Pass the Piton Pete."

Gawldang right, I shoulda. That’s good.

Point is, I don’t want your gears meseginatin all in with my gears, copulating and mixing gear tape and what have you till I’m grabbing up a goopy offset wondering what in the hell kinda hole this thang gone fit, you understand meh?

I can't believe I'm responding to this, but whatever; I'm bored.

If I buy all the Ultralight Master Cams from 00 to 8, then I bought a complete set of UL MCs.

The collection of cams, nuts, etc., I show up with all attached to a sling is the rack.

Permagumby?

Robert S wrote:

I can't believe I'm responding to this, but whatever; I'm bored.

Oh, my dude, if you want to throw down with the semantics I'll throw down with semantics. Let's spar.

If I buy all the Ultralight Master Cams from 00 to 8, then I bought a complete set of UL MCs.

The collection of cams, nuts, etc., I show up with all attached to a sling is the rack.

Sure. My point is that the word set always needs some other context to tell you what the fuck the word means. The word "complete" is the adjective modifying "set" in this instance so it makes sense. A rack can mean a single, double, etc. rack, it can mean all the pro that you own, it can mean the appropriate pro for an area or a particular climb. Adjectives are often not needed with rack, just context clues. "Oh, you're heading up the Salathe? What's your rack for that?" makes sense. "I'm bringing a set of quadruples in fingers and triples in hands" also makes sense, but asking "hey, what's your set for that climb" makes you sound like a foreigner/crazy person. 

This isn't different to how the word is used in any other domain. If you have a set of shoes and you tell me nothing else then I know nothing about the quantity of shoes or why they belong together in some category. It requires explaining that this set are my climbing shoes and this set are my hiking shoes or whatever. The word rack carries more information then the word set.

Permagumby?

Yes, you called?

Do we need to start a new "overheard at the crag" thread while you guys hash this out? 

Edit: lol I unsubbed for so long because of this argument that I didn't realize I'm repeating others with my suggestion when I came back and saw it the thread still on fire   

The real question in my mind is that if you have a set, S, of all sets that do not contain themselves, then is S in S?

J P wrote:

Jfc do we need a new “overheard” thread so y’all can keep jerking over pedantic trad terms here? Feeling like the meme thread.

Anyway, i have another contribution after yesterday’s sesh. 

Random climber is spraying about all the V8+ problems he had dialed, then later my climbing partner overheard the guy talking about how he hadn’t finished a certain (non-sandbagged) v4.

Partner: “why haven’t you sent that? That’s literally half your send grade! What’s shutting you down?”

Guy: “well I haven’t actually sent a v8 yet. I’ve done half here, and then the other half separately.”

Partner: “so what do you actually climb then? What have you sent?”

Guy: *silence, no responses.* *slinks away*

Just a reminder, there’s no cheating in climbing, just lying. 

I bet he stick clips up 13s

mbk wrote:

The real question in my mind is that if you have a set, S, of all sets that do not contain themselves, then is S in S?

When do we start discussing Goedel's incompleteness theorem and Church's thesis? What about NP-hard and NP-complete?

Belayer: Youre supposed to use your hands and feet, but your head works too.

My apologies for posting the quote from the Monkeys are Sending video. My goal for this thread is that we as climbers can laugh at ourselves in a kind and hilarious way. 

Let's keep it funny my friends.

This isn't overheard at the crag but this is the most relevant thread and I have the need to be an old man yelling at a cloud somewhere: 

Someone ticked holds on Pine Line. For anyone not familiar it's a 5.7 finger crack at the base of El Cap. Now I'm not going to give anyone shit for projecting a 5.7, as that's exactly what I was doing there. It's a hard size to get mileage on as a moderate leader, moderate finger cracks are few and far between, so I certainly relate. 

And you know what? Ticking the big ass 5.7 holds as preposterous as it seems to me isn't even the part I'm mad about. If sending Pine Line is so desperate for someone that they're ticking holds because they're so gripped on lead that they can't pause and take in the large holds around them then good for them for getting after it! 

But if you're going to get up this level of shenanigans for the love of god clean up your tick marks when you're done. 

Is the cloud sufficiently yelled at now? I mean, guys, cloud, ticking PINE LINE? fer fecks sake 

Ricky Harline wrote:

This isn't overheard at the crag but this is the most relevant thread and I have the need to be an old man yelling at a cloud somewhere: 

Someone ticked holds on Pine Line. For anyone not familiar it's a 5.7 finger crack at the base of El Cap. Now I'm not going to give anyone shit for projecting a 5.7, as that's exactly what I was doing there. It's a hard size to get mileage on as a moderate leader, moderate finger cracks are few and far between, so I certainly relate. 

And you know what? Ticking the big ass 5.7 holds as preposterous as it seems to me isn't even the part I'm mad about. If sending Pine Line is so desperate for someone that they're ticking holds because they're so gripped on lead that they can't pause and take in the large holds around them then good for them for getting after it! 

But if you're going to get up this level of shenanigans for the love of god clean up your tick marks when you're done. 

Is the cloud sufficiently yelled at now? I mean, guys, cloud, ticking PINE LINE? fer fecks sake 

Maybe they aren't done.

Getting ready to lead the first pitch of something easy as a warm up around mid to late morning. There’s a harder single pitch route next to it I want to try on TR. A pair comes up and says they are looking for the multipitch. I tell them this is it and we’ll be done shortly since we’re just doing the first pitch.

After I come down I ask if they want to jump in and offer our rope to TR to the ledge. One of them mumbles something about how we should have let them go first but also that they’re still racking up - not sure how that makes sense. The other one is pretty quiet.

So my partner warms up on the same first pitch and we decide to pull the rope and do some other routes and come back later. I leave my cord at the bolted belay anchor on top of the ledge.

Over an hour later, I lead another route to the same ledge and find them using my anchor while the rude one from earlier is crawling up the second pitch. I don’t really mind; the quiet one is polite and installs her own anchor so I can retrieve mine. I hear the leader over their walkie-talkies say that she can’t find the anchor. The belayer tells me it’s her first trad lead. I wish her luck and go on my way.

Yoda Jedi Knight wrote:

Getting ready to lead the first pitch of something easy as a warm up around mid to late morning. There’s a harder single pitch route next to it I want to try on TR. A pair comes up and says they are looking for the multipitch. I tell them this is it and we’ll be done shortly since we’re just doing the first pitch.

After I come down I ask if they want to jump in and offer our rope to TR to the ledge. One of them mumbles something about how we should have let them go first but also that they’re still racking up - not sure how that makes sense. The other one is pretty quiet.

So my partner warms up on the same first pitch and we decide to pull the rope and do some other routes and come back later. I leave my cord at the bolted belay anchor on top of the ledge.

Over an hour later, I lead another route to the same ledge and find them using my anchor while the rude one from earlier is crawling up the second pitch. I don’t really mind; the quiet one is polite and installs her own anchor so I can retrieve mine. I hear the leader over their walkie-talkies say that she can’t find the anchor. The belayer tells me it’s her first trad lead. I wish her luck and go on my way.

Using the first pitch of a popular multi pitch as a warmup is not the best practice in my opinion. I’d probably be rude too lol 

Hangdog Hank wrote:

Using the first pitch of a popular multi pitch as a warmup is not the best practice in my opinion. I’d probably be rude too lol 

Then get there earlier and rack up faster.

Perhaps consider racking up before the approach

Yoda Jedi Knight wrote:

Then get there earlier and rack up faster.

Man, so many unwritten/unknown rules eh?