Setting up TR at Shanty Cliff
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I've only done a little bit of outdoor sport climbing and I'm heading to Shanty Cliff next week to try some of the sport routes; but I'm a bit confused about some of the routes that are listed as TR. My only other outdoor climbing is at Rattlesnake Point where, for the most part, you can reach the anchors from the top of the cliff and set up Top Rope anchors that way. For routes at Shanty that are listed as TR and that have permanent anchors (take pobrecito as an example); is that the case? Is there anyway to set up Top Rope anchors without trad climbing first for the TR routes at Shanty? Thanks |
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My recollection (supported by some of the route descriptions) is that you can walk off the top of the vast majority of Shanty routes. Which means you can walk up (around left end of the cliff) to the top. What I can't assure you is that the sport anchors are easily reachable from above. So be prepared to rap/lower down to these if your chosen route has an anchor down out of reach. If you bring static rope to create your own top anchor, my sense is that you'll need a lot of it, as much of the clifftop is rounded, bare rock and the trees are far back. |
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I've only been to Shanty once, and that was a number of years ago. We were leading/following, so I can't say for certain how easy top access is, but my memory is that it didn't appear to be the easiest place to get around---so getting up top, then locating where you are, could be problematic. There is also a pretty substantial river to cross at the start of the approach, so that could also be an issue still relatively early in the season. My memory is that Starbucks Crag, in the same general region of the Park, would be a much better locale for setting up top-ropes--it has a straight-forward approach and easy access to the top of the routes. |
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I don't think it would be very easy to get to the top of most of the climbs. The routes right near Little Gem Diner probably wouldn't be too bad. I don't remember how accessible the anchors are from the top, though. |
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Nearly all climbs with a fixed anchor at Shanty will require rappelling to setup a top rope. The top of the climbs at the far left (the summit) are the most approachable, but all require a natural / trad. anchor with the exception of Flying Friends, and getting to the fixed anchor here most people will likely want to be on belay. The rest of the climbs at Shanty you'll be rappelling off scrawny trees that aren't too close to the edge, or even further away more solid trees. Seems quite inconvenient, although I've never done it. The exception is the Shanty Slab; the top fixed anchor is easily accessed, but the climbs are mediocre and presently a downed tree blocks the start. A nearby alternative that is more approachable when it comes to top roping (and some sport) would be Lake Pleasant Quarry (some anchors you can reach from the top, others you can easily rappel to). Or, just go to Moss Island. |
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Thanks everyone for the info; and @Scott H I will definitely be checking out Moss Island in the future; but i'm on vacation real close to Shanty next week. Moss Island will have to wait for another trip. |




