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Hardest non-limestone climbs by rock type
saign charlesteinwrote: This is a silly internet argument, but I'll die on this tiny hill, dammit! Climbers misidentifying granitic gneiss as granite is a common occurrence. Its pretty close to granite (it used to be granite!) so that's an easy mistake to make. That seems to be occurring for the Flatanger tourism promotion site you quote. But, that (formerly granite) rock in Flatanger has clearly seem some metamorphism, as evidenced by the foliation (the banded metamorphic texture). If you wanted to call it "metamorphosed granite", that's technically correct(ish), but that's just a roundabout way of saying granitic gneiss. --- But you don't have to listen to me; I'm just some random internet schmuck. Let's see what Adam Ondra has to say (from this article in the American Alpine Journal) "This is why I decided to go to Norway. I had heard so much about this beautiful country, and I became even more motivated when I saw a picture of the cave at Flatanger. Instantly, I understood that this place was not to be missed. We packed our stuff in early summer and headed north—an unusual direction for a Czech climber. It was about 10 days before we got to Flatanger, and driving the last 30 kilometers was exciting. I was a little afraid the cave would disappoint me. But at first glance, the doubts diminished. I knew I’d found the place for bolting an ultimate project. I stared into the endless sea of light granitic gneiss as if it were the best TV program on Earth. It took some time to decide which was the perfect line, and in the meantime I did a couple of onsights and made the first ascent of a Magnus Midtbø project, Thor’s Hammer (9a+/5.15a). Then it was time to bolt." --- If more citations needed, here are a few other articles on the granitic gneiss side: https://grivel.com/blogs/grivel-stories/flatanger-climbing-trip-by-marcello-bombardi https://www.8a.nu/se/videos/flatanger-the-biggest-granitic-gneiss-caves-in-the-world |
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Just climbed my first couple of pitches in Clear Creek Canyon near Golden, CO recently. Was curious on some of the grades there - looks like there’s 3 14c’s and 1 14c/d out there. A lot of the rock out there is nice gneiss! |
