Grading gym routes=not via YDS

Princess Puppy Lovrwrote:

You are also discounting the fact moonboards are a relatively new training tool.

It’s really not. Aside from it coming out before 95% of the people commenting on here started climbing. It has just gained popularity recently.

 I believe it came out in the early 2000’s (I wanna say 2005?) making it almost 20 years old. That’s not “relatively new” in training terms unless you are comparing it to the Bachar ladder. 

There is also no such thing as real rock climbers, just people who climb rocks.

This is poppycock, or puppycock in this case

Climbers that climb on real rock are real rock climbers

It follows that…

J wrote:

It’s really not. Aside from it coming out before 95% of the people commenting on here started climbing. It has just gained popularity recently.

 I believe it came out in the early 2000’s (I wanna say 2005?) making it almost 20 years old. That’s not “relatively new” in training terms unless you are comparing it to the Bachar ladder.

Sure it seems semantical. If real climbers use the moonboard but 1% of people who have rock climbed have even touched a moonboard, it doesn’t seem like a good way to define hardcore climbers over the history of free climbing.

Kevin Worrallwrote:

This is poppycock, or puppycock in this case

Climbers that climb on real rock are real rock climbers

It follows that…

If I were to label people as “real” climbers it would be the people that don’t care about labels.

It ain’t about labels, pup

It’s about the truth

Lots of people can’t handle it

Eric Engbergwrote:

Them not being serious is your take on it.  May or may not be so.  Also 30 seconds and 200 meters is measurable.  5.9 isnt 

Yes! If you want to keep track of your progress, “being able to do 1/3rd of purple problems” is just as quantitative as “being able to do 1/2 of V5’s”

Princess Puppy Lovrwrote:

Sure it seems semantical. If real climbers use the moonboard but 1% of people who have rock climbed have even touched a moonboard, it doesn’t seem like a good way to define hardcore climbers over the history of free climbing.

Idk what your point is, but I think there’s quite a big discrepancy between “real climbers” and “people who have rock climbed”

Regardless, my only point in the last post was that the Moonboard is not necessarily a new training tool. 

Tradibanwrote:

It's a cop-out. They got sick of hearing all the complaints from the newbs "That pink one in the corner is NOT 5.10!". I hate it too but I can't blame 'em.

It's not just newbs either. Route setting is extremely subjective. I've set routes that played to my strength and had experienced climbers tell me it's a sandbagged grade when I really didn't think it was. I've tested routes and thought their grade was sandbagged while others didn't. I've climbed side by side routes graded the same grade by the same setter and had one feel a number grade easier to me.

In the end, grades are a ball park figure of what the setter thinks it is based on their experience/input. And no matter what grade you give it, soft/stiff/accurate, people will disagree.