Grand Teton Exum Ridge questions

I'm looking to climb the Exum Ridge this summer and there are some questions I haven't been able to answer concretely by searching the forums. Would you fine folks care to help me out?

1. Where would be the best place to camp to get a fast start on the Lower Exum Ridge? Garnett Canyon? Are there designated campsites up there, or can we just set up camp wherever we decide looks best?
2. Is there bear danger? Will we need bear-safe containers for our food?
3. How do we get permits for camping in Garnett Canyon? Do we pick them up at the ranger station the day before?

Thanks in advance!

Jon Rulandwrote:

I'm looking to climb the Exum Ridge this summer and there are some questions I haven't been able to answer concretely by searching the forums. Would you fine folks care to help me out?

1. Is there bear danger? Will we need bear-safe containers for our food?

Marmots!

Do it car to car and forget all those questions. Start early and you'll be to exum by about sunrise.

Jon Rulandwrote:

I'm looking to climb the Exum Ridge this summer and there are some questions I haven't been able to answer concretely by searching the forums. Would you fine folks care to help me out?

1. Where would be the best place to camp to get a fast start on the Lower Exum Ridge? Garnett Canyon? Are there designated campsites up there, or can we just set up camp wherever we decide looks best?
2. Is there bear danger? Will we need bear-safe containers for our food?
3. How do we get permits for camping in Garnett Canyon? Do we pick them up at the ranger station the day before?

Thanks in advance!

Pretty basic stuff, all this is available on the NPS website and Google searches. But, I'll make it easy for you:

1) Yes, Garnet Canyon. There are 5 different designated areas to pick from, depending on how high or low you want to camp. Garnet Canyon 

2) No, your campsite in Garnet will have food storage containers to use.

3)Some permits are available on rec.gov, and some are released the day before. permits  

Bring and use wag bags, its getting pretty disgusting up there in some places. 

Go here.  Read everything.
http://wyomingwhiskey.blogspot.com/

National Park page.

https://www.nps.gov/grte/planyourvisit/climb.htm

1: Climbers on overnight trips must have a backcountry camping permit.
There are designated backcountry zones, each with socially-defined campsites.  The higher up you camp the night before, the closer you are to the start of the climb the next morning.  Try to get a permit for the Lower Saddle, Moraines, or Petzold Caves zones.

2: Bears live in the park so there is always a danger.  You need an approved bear-safe food cannister.  When I climbed there, the ranger station loaned out approved bear cannisters to every group when they picked up their permits.  Your food is more likely at risk from marmots

3: Reserve your permit in advance.  There is a limited number of permits available per backcountry zone per day.  Pick up your permit the day before at the ranger station.  There might be a couple of non-reserved permits available each day, but don't count on it.

You didn't ask, but:

4: If you poop in the Petzold Caves zone, the Lower Saddle zone, or anywhere on the mountain above the Lower Saddle, you need to use something like a Wag-Bag and pack it out with you.  Anywhere else, you can bury the poop (with restrictions) but you still need to pack out your used toilet paper.  (Note: this information might be out of date, you might need to pack out your poop everywhere) The only toilet is at the trailhead.
5: Winter weather, including howling white-out blizzards, is possible at any time of the year, including the middle of summer.  Be prepared.

Steve123wrote:

Go here.  Read everything.
http://wyomingwhiskey.blogspot.com/

I second this website.  It has the best information we could find on Upper Exum; especially the approach and descent.

Paul Morrisonwrote:

Marmots!

Curse those adorable little bastards!

Andy Novakwrote:

Pretty basic stuff, all this is available on the NPS website and Google searches. But, I'll make it easy for you:

1) Yes, Garnet Canyon. There are 5 different designated areas to pick from, depending on how high or low you want to camp. Garnet Canyon 

2) No, your campsite in Garnet will have food storage containers to use.

3)Some permits are available on rec.gov, and some are released the day before. permits  

Bring and use wag bags, its getting pretty disgusting up there in some places. 

Thanks Andy. Yes wag bags are definitely going to be in play.

Andy Novakwrote:

Bring and use wag bags, its getting pretty disgusting up there in some places. 

Yes. Please. And thank you!

Last time I was up there some European dropped one right on the 3rd pitch belay ledge.  

Steve123wrote:

Go here.  Read everything.
http://wyomingwhiskey.blogspot.com/

National Park page.

https://www.nps.gov/grte/planyourvisit/climb.htm

1: Climbers on overnight trips must have a backcountry camping permit.
There are designated backcountry zones, each with socially-defined campsites.  The higher up you camp the night before, the closer you are to the start of the climb the next morning.  Try to get a permit for the Lower Saddle, Moraines, or Petzold Caves zones.

2: Bears live in the park so there is always a danger.  You need an approved bear-safe food cannister.  When I climbed there, the ranger station loaned out approved bear cannisters to every group when they picked up their permits.  Your food is more likely at risk from marmots

3: Reserve your permit in advance.  There is a limited number of permits available per backcountry zone per day.  Pick up your permit the day before at the ranger station.  There might be a couple of non-reserved permits available each day, but don't count on it.

You didn't ask, but:

4: If you poop in the Petzold Caves zone, the Lower Saddle zone, or anywhere on the mountain above the Lower Saddle, you need to use something like a Wag-Bag and pack it out with you.  Anywhere else, you can bury the poop (with restrictions) but you still need to pack out your used toilet paper.  (Note: this information might be out of date, you might need to pack out your poop everywhere) The only toilet is at the trailhead.
5: Winter weather, including howling white-out blizzards, is possible at any time of the year, including the middle of summer.  Be prepared.

Thanks very much. Do we get our permits for a specific campsite? Or do we just get them for a zone where we can set up camp? For example, if we get permits for the Lower Saddle, could we pick any open spot in the Lower Saddle when we get there?

Jon Rulandwrote:

Thanks very much. Do we get our permits for a specific campsite? Or do we just get them for a zone where we can set up camp? For example, if we get permits for the Lower Saddle, could we pick any open spot in the Lower Saddle when we get there?

It is my understanding that the permit is for the zone.  You can camp in any open spot in the zone.

Steve123wrote:

It is my understanding that the permit is for the zone.  You can camp in any open spot in the zone.

That is correct 

All this info is on the nps website.

Get a bivy permit for the lower saddle or morraine areas. Two-day limit per area permit. Three or four consecutive days limit for the drainage.

I've never seen a bear up there but cannisters are now required. If you don't have one you can get one at Jenny Lake where you get your permit. I think there is a small rental fee. 

Thanks guys!

Jon Rulandwrote:

Thanks guys!

When are you going?

Gumby Kingwrote:

When are you going?

Probably early August.