Best place to live for multipitch climbing

Grand Junction, CO. 

Thanks everyone for your recommendations :) I think JCM currently gets the cake for most helpful response! But really, any response other than some variation of Vegas, was helpful in thinking outside of the go-to answer.

Marc801 C, in response to your question about "places you're already considering as well as the rejections - and why", I'd say I haven't ruled out any place as a definite "no".

I used to live in the Bay Area, so I'm done with doing a min 4-hour-each-way drive every single time I want to climb a good, decently long multipitch. That commute makes the work-life balance challenging and really splits it into work, and life, rather than a healthier blend I see possible in places within good climbing close by.

I also lived in Golden/Boulder for a couple years. Lots of good stuff going for that area. But I felt like it was seriously lacking in having longer (min 8P) multipitches within a 2hour drive, aside from 2-2.5 months of the year, i.e. alpine season. So that again leads to the work-life balance challenge for someone who prioritizes that kind of climbing (I'm not saying it's the be-all-end-all for everyone, just the preference for myself).

I've been in Vegas for a few months now. Climbing is great. But I, and others I've chatted with who've moved here in the past year, have found that it can be hard to find the local community, with such a huge influx of visiting climbers diluting the mix of people you'd happen to run into at the local climbing areas. For example, in the Denver metro, unless someone specifically states they're from out of town, they're local, and so it's so easy to meet and develop those more consistent local partnerships and connect with the local community. I'm not saying that can't still happen in Vegas - it just takes a little more time and effort. Again, not saying at all that I'm ruling out Vegas, it's more so I want to make sure I've considered all the options before settling down.

Lastly, I've toyed with the idea of the Sierra Eastside. My main concern is that it doesn't meet the first requirement: Able to rock climb on multi-pitch (min 8 pitches long) routes at least 5-6 months of the year, within ~1.5hr drive of the town/city.

Natalie N wrote:

My main concern is that it doesn't meet the first requirement: Able to rock climb on multi-pitch (min 8 pitches long) routes at least 5-6 months of the year, within ~1.5hr drive of the town/city.

I'm not certain at all, but isn't Vegas about the only area in the states that meets that requirement?

Towns in NorCal ~1.5 hours from the Yosemite: Sonora, Mariposa, Oakhurst (all hickvilles but cool towns and communities if you like that sort of thing. If you don't mind the climate Merced (with a UC Campus). Turlock, Modesto, Manteca, Madera, Clovis are 1.5 hours out if you leave early enough in the morning.

For me, Fresno or Stockton would be out of the question. Sacramento is 2+ hours out but is closer to CalDome, if that helps.

Tucson?

Cochise stronghold is 1.5 hours

Rare longer multi pitch on Lemmon 

Bishop has everything BUT the medical stuff.

East side is definitely climbable nearly year round if you are cool single pitching / clipping bolts during the winter. Low snow years (which seems like forever now) opens your options up significantly. Last year pine creek was pretty much thawed by early April

Natalie N wrote:

Lastly, I've toyed with the idea of the Sierra Eastside. My main concern is that it doesn't meet the first requirement: Able to rock climb on multi-pitch (min 8 pitches long) routes at least 5-6 months of the year, within ~1.5hr drive of the town/city.

Eastside definitely works better if you are ok with a defined multi-pitch season (summer-fall), and then cragging and bouldering over the winter. This seasonal approach has it's advantages anyway, in terms of advancing climbing ability and maintaining motivation. Trying to get after big routes year round has it's downsides; there's a reason that the most accomplished multipitch climbers spend a decent chunk of the year cragging. 

 Though I bet you still can squeeze in 6 months per year of long route options near Bishop, once you factor in the shoulder season options in Whitney Portal, the Wheeler Crest, a scattering of longer routes in Pine Creek, late-season fall alpine rock, etc (to stretch out the main summer alpine season).

Otherwise, for major areas with the scale and length of season you are looking for, plus a high level of quality and quantity of routes, that basically means Yosemite (and other western Sierra) and Red Rock. Plus the Black Canyon and Zion if you are ok with a bit more choss and adventure. So this means Vegas, foothill towns in the Sierra, a few spots in Western Slope CO, and St. George.

The problem with Yosemite Valley is that within a 2 hour drive the towns are all pretty tiny. Which is great if that's what you're look for. But for any larger urban civilization you're going 2.5 hours - and those towns aren't exactly cool climber towns.

Vegas is pretty unmatched in the US (possibly worldwide) for big multipitch super close to a large city, with a long season. Anywhere else you'd have to compromise on size of routes, size of city, proximity, or length of season. The question then is which of these are you willing to compromise? Or just go with Vegas.

Shhhhhhhhhhhh

JCM wrote:

The problem with Yosemite Valley is that within a 2 hour drive the towns are all pretty tiny. Which is great if that's what you're look for. But for any larger urban civilization you're going 2.5 hours - and those towns aren't exactly cool climber towns.

Tiny or terrible. Fresno isn't tiny but it's pretty much a dump. 

Andrew Rice wrote:

Tiny or terrible. Fresno isn't tiny but it's pretty much a dump. 

It's also realistically over 2 hours drive under most situations. Californians are always in denial about their drive times (the truth hurts) and low-ball their numbers. 

Personally, if I wanted to be close to Yosemite and could live anywhere (within reasonable parameters), I'd choose Sonora/Jamestown. Realistically less than 2 hours to Yosemite, a big enough town for the needed amenities, and some good nearby local climbing. Best combo of being a good spot in it's own right, and also close(ish) Yosemite access.

Not sure if it's objectively the "best", but I really like living in Asheville NC. While the majority of the multi-pitches here are in the 3-6 pitch range, Laurel Knob and Whiteside are both really fun badass cliffs with routes in the 6-10 pitch range. Looking Glass is my favorite area here with routes from single pitch up to 6 or 7 pitches. Linville gorge is stacked with adventurous 3-5 pitch routes as well, and some people like to do link-ups to get a bigger day in. And there's various 1-2 pitch areas that are very good too. Also great bouldering, and Asheville is a pretty cool town. Good sport climbing 2hrs away at hidden valley and the best sport climbing in the country a few more hours away at the obed, the red, or the new.

A lot of what makes year round climbing possible is a range of elevations. Go low in the winter and high in the summer. LV is going to be better for the winter (starts lower) Bishop is going to be better for the summer (starts higher). A lot of getting a lot of days climbing in is less days with precipitation. Both are good compared to lots of other places, but LV wins here. LV is a city with an international airport. For Bishop you're driving to Reno, Vegas, or LA. Western slope of Sierra has some towns, but still a drive to a major airport and Yosemite/multipitch. Really LV is the only place that fits the bill. If climbing was my only concern I'd be there, but I like skiing just as much.

Natalie N wrote:
Lastly, I've toyed with the idea of the Sierra Eastside. My main concern is that it doesn't meet the first requirement: Able to rock climb on multi-pitch (min 8 pitches long) routes at least 5-6 months of the year, within ~1.5hr drive of the town/city.

What do you consider "able to"? People climb the E. Buttress of Whitney all year round, weather dependent, of course. There's also a fair amount of off-the-radar combing over in the other direction, toward Death Valley, with a different set of seasons entirely.

To me the issue would be that Bishop isn't much of a city. It's a nice little town, for sure, but pretty small. If climbing and skiing were my only concerns, though, I'd go there in a heartbeat. 

tough to get all your wishes to come true......

proximity east of Fresno, Merced

Grass Valley-Nevada City CA

Ft Collins, CO

Cedar City, UT

Marc801 C wrote:

Um, she lists her location as Vegas.

Yes, Las Vegas

How about Vancouver?  Is the rock season too short?

The closest village with a hospital to El Protero Chico is the obvious answer aside from the fact you didn't include Mexico(x)

 We all might be there by Fall, ala' Sarah Connor

According to the top three leading experts in the field ...

Las Vegas.

Jacob Ward wrote:

Not sure if it's objectively the "best", but I really like living in Asheville NC. While the majority of the multi-pitches here are in the 3-6 pitch range, Laurel Knob and Whiteside are both really fun badass cliffs with routes in the 6-10 pitch range. Looking Glass is my favorite area here with routes from single pitch up to 6 or 7 pitches. Linville gorge is stacked with adventurous 3-5 pitch routes as well, and some people like to do link-ups to get a bigger day in. And there's various 1-2 pitch areas that are very good too. Also great bouldering, and Asheville is a pretty cool town. Good sport climbing 2hrs away at hidden valley and the best sport climbing in the country a few more hours away at the obed, the red, or the new.

I almost hate to admit that NC should be on the list for the 6mo requirement. LK and Whiteside are both prime from late September to early May