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Bad Bolts in Las Vegas
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1/15/22 - Solar Slab The second bolted rap station down, adjacent to the pitch 5 belay on GearLoopTopo, rightmost bolt IIRC, is loose and I was able to move the wedge anchor by hand inside the drilled rock. IIRC, the anchors at the crack for the belay just to climbers left had something wrong with them also when I was on the way up. |
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Pigs in Zen @ Janes Wall could use new protection and anchor bolts. |
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Under the Boardwalk (The Pier at Sandstone Quarry) - The 5th bolt's hole has wallowed so that the bolt itself can wiggle around quite a bit in addition to the spinning hanger. I'm willing to provide the hardware for this bolt replacement and/or new bolts for the entire route. This route is heavily trafficked and could probably benefit from glue-ins. I can pay for the hardware and assist in anyway to replace the existing stuff. I don't have any experience working with glue-ins, but I'd like to observe and assist if anyone is willing. -Dylan Trujillo (702) 510-0450 |
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 One of the anchor bolts for Crooked Crack, Ragged Edges area. It is not really clear to me what is going on here. I can't tell if a new hole was drilled and this bolt installed like a fraction of an inch to the left... and the hole below is much older... or maybe the very close hole was filled with glue or only barely started before deciding to go a fraction of an inch to the left. Would appreciate someone figuring out what is going on here next time they are out there. Side note, while these bolts are easy to walk/scramble to, or walk off from, top roping from them, even with a lot of extension does not work well. Best to do this as a lead, top belay your follower, and walk off, or walk/scramble around to a lower adjacent anchor and rap. |
 On the top of “pitch 6 - the money hand crack pitch” on Solar Slab, upper tier. This bolt was dangerously loose in its current form. As a side note, the current rap setup would twist the rope also as the quick link needs one more link for proper orientation. And as a second side note, the anchor below this at the big ledge also is set up a little oddly, though it is plenty bomber anyway. One of the hangers spin but that isn’t the issue as the bolt is tight, unlike the bolt it the above photo. No real complaint but just FYI |
Bob Johnsonwrote: Thanks a lot for rebolting Pain Check (and others at Wake-Up Wall)! Got back on that after 1.5 years and was excited about the glue-ins! |
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What is the current recommended standard bolt type, size, length for replacing bad bolts on an established route or anchor in Red Rock? Want to be sure I am meeting local standards. Thanks. |
JC Mwrote: Hey JC, send me direct message, thanks. JJ |
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3/4 of the way up Smooth Operator, loose bolt w/ chains on it  |
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*Cowlick Crag in Calico Basin- the bottom links on the chains for Flying Chuckwalla are pretty badly worn and the grooves have some edges on the right bottom link. Maybe just need those snipped but should be looked at. |
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Black Corridor, Sandstone Enema, 2nd bolt was very lose and the climber was able to slide it right out this past weekend. Left the bolt it at the base of the route. Hope it's been fixed or allocated for a fix! |
Alli Eskerwrote: What kind of bolt was it? |
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In Black Velvet Canyon, TexasTower Connection could really use help. The traverse pitch has two original 1/4inch bolts (backed up by marginal/worthless small cams) and one bent, hanging out, stardrive bolt (no gear) protecting the crux of the traverse. The anchor for the pitch is usually skipped due to its equally ancient nature. The next pitch continues straight up past 7(?) more 1/4 inch originals and very sparse gear to a 50:50 good/bad bolted anchor. I didn’t climb the last pitch as we went towards Lonestar. Here you’ll find the crux pitch top anchor is at a steep hanging stance with a single button head bolt backed up by as much micro gear as you can jam in. |
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Second bolt on borderline at the hood is pulling out. Happy to help replace it if someone teaches me. |
Colin Quinnwrote: Hey Colin, did you notice what kind of bolt it is, and were you by chance able to try to tighten it down? |
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The single bolt that makes up the third pitch "anchor" of swing shift could greatly benefit from being replaced. I believe it is a rusty 1/4" with a homemade hanger. Happy to help if possible. |
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The left side of the Dark Shadows wall could use some love. I climbed Parental Guidance and Short Circuit yesterday and got eyes on Lethal Weapon. Both anchors on Parental Guidance as well as a couple protection bolts could use love. The entirety of Short Circuit is overdue for rebolting as is Lethal Weapon from what I could tell. None of the hardware I saw was actively falling out of the wall, but it is definitely super corroded and looks like 1st gen plated steel. Mostly 3/8" 5 piece and wedge bolts. This might not be the forum for it, but I'd add that Short Circuit would be better with another bolt at the start. If you're not tall enough to place the #1 (which is placed behind a dubious flake anyway) it's super dangerous. Especially because that also means the V1 move it protects is more like V5 because if you're too short to reach the cam, then you're also too short to reach the holds that make it V1. |
Alex Fletcherwrote: Came here to echo this comment. I didn't try to pull the right bolt out in tension since the left one is bomber, and the loose one seemed "maybe good enough" in sheer, but I'm sure it will pop out with a good tug. I climbed ~100 pitches in RR this past October, and this is the only bolt that I felt needs immediate attention. |
