Staying warm on Multipitch

How do you stay warm on long multipitch routes in cold weather? Has anyone climbed with toe warmers in their shoes? I'm always down for some type 2 fun, but shoving my frozen foot in a crack and putting all my body weight on it is right up there with the pangs of childbirth. 

Yes, wool socks in rock 'boots'. If you try it you'll be surprised how well you can climb in comfortable shoes.

North face Merriam 10/2019. Soft shell with capalene and a puffy at the belays. Sometimes you are just really cold. 

The chemical warmers designed for shoes work great with rock shoes.  I’ve used them numerous times.  I’ve tried them in the top of my foot and the bottom and don’t really noticed a difference.  I thought they’d be annoying on the bottoms but they weren’t.  

I never found the heater in the chalk bag to work that well.  I’ve opted to just tape them to my wrist.  I’m not convinced that helped either.  Ido more testing.

I’ve cut the toes off of socks and then use them as over boots for my rock shoes in addition to wearing socks.

A really good clothing system is key.  Zip on insulated pants are nice if you are hauling a small pack.  Wind shell pants are a better bang for the buck though if you are going light. Easy to just slip on at the belays.  The Nano air pants and Houdini pants are an amazing cold weather combo.

And definitely lead in blocks.  On really cold days one person leads the first half then partner leads the second half.  Then there is only one long belay.

A trick I prefer to socks in the shoes is thick wool socks pulled over my shoes.   Cut the toes off and they act like ankle warmers and keep your foot much warmer.   Can keep them pretty far forward if strictly edging.   Pull to midsole etc for crack.  

(Long thick socks better, crazy how much heat you lose from drafty pants and exposed ankle)

Of course starting with shoes warmed up in a jacket will make a big difference vs starting with icy shoes.  

I have never tried footwarmers direct to skin in rock shoes but imagine it would work well  in addition to the toeless socks.   At that point though is when I stop trying to force it because the hands are going etc.   

abandon moderation wrote:

Reasonable people just go ice climbing.

I'm not sure I've ever heard climbers described as a reasonable bunch...

Some great responses here though, thanks for the advice!   

wool socks in comfortable rock shoes.  Longs Peak Diamond in November..  not the most pleasant experience, but far superior to partner's frostbite...

-Haireball

I have rock shoes that are sized a bit larger to allow me to wear socks and I pair those shoes with heated socks. The Ororo "Redwood" Carbon Nanotube Heated Socks are my current go to for the socks. On the middle and low setting they easily last a full day of climbing and recharge quickly when i'm back at the bivy

There use to be a couple insulated rock shoes on the market. Not sure if anyone is still selling them or not.

Puffy pants at the belay and the sock strategy’s mentioned above are the best alternatives. 

climbing coastiewrote:

Puffy pants at the belay and the sock strategy’s mentioned above are the best alternatives. 

Yes, zip on/off puffy pants are a godsend.

climbing coastiewrote:

There use to be a couple insulated rock shoes on the market. Not sure if anyone is still selling them or not.

https://www.scarpa.co.uk/climbing-shoes/maestro-alpine/

First I'd try to find a south facing, sun-exposed route. Can't beat a good reflector oven.

https://www.eddiebauer.com/p/12951203/men-s-guide-pro-lined-pants

These were a genuine game-changer. I use these for both cold-weather climbing and as my general 'snow'/winter pant, and I've never had cold legs. They're almost as mobile as my beloved prana zions. 

Other tips that haven't been mentioned:

- Make sure you don't keep your shoes in your pack or leave them in your cold car/garage: warm them up over a heat vent in your house (or your car) and put them in your jacket as you hike to the cliff. 

- Climb with a long base layer shirt (that won't come up over your waist during overhead movement) and tuck it into your pants. 

- Find a puffy that won't restrict your ROM at all (I just wear a cheap one a size up from my normal size) and wear it both climbing and belaying.

Long underwear (top and bottom), socks with shoes and a hand warmer in the chalk bag. Also, climb single pitch if you can in the winter.

I usually put hand warmers and a whiskey shooter in my chalk bag. Oh, and a windbreaker helps. 

On this subject one big thing that happens to me is cold feet.  I don't like the idea of climbing with toe warmers and in fact have had such or performance with them in snowboarding that I broke down and got thermic socks (which btw are amazing and if they last at least 250 days would essentially be about the same price as toe warmers).  I wonder does anyone know if jamming while wearing those socks would destroy them?  They were quite the investment so I don't want to trash them.