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Best Shoes for Aiding
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There is a high top version of the TX4, great shoe edit: didn't see second page, but I'll second the above motion |
Peter Zabrokwrote: I too am looking for a great pair of high-mid top wall shoes. I have a newer pair and a brand new pair of Dcope GTX shoes that I love. They aren’t made anymore so I’m looking for a currently made alternate |
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https://www.arbpro.it/gb/non-protective-boots/32-evo-2-climbing-boots.html These are my go to aid climbing boots if I’m on a route with more straight aid than shennanigans climbing (fraid, lots of free). They are hands down the best aid boot I have worn. No lace hooks to break off, good ankle support, extremely stiff sole, bomber toe for grinding into the wall on those hard high steps, straps for rope walking, a heel that snags ladders and over all a very burly design. They perform exceptionally well on rugged terrain off the beaten path and I can “front point” up the steepest vegetated hillsides and scree fields with ease. They are even compatible with certain styles of crampons and I have definitely wrenched rambos down on to them for some ice pitches. The have a great edge and vibram rubber. I have confidently rope soloed 5.10 face wearing them. They aren’t great for normal hiking trails as they are stiff and excel in technical environments. I don’t work for these guys... just think they made the best product and I’ve turned a couple folks onto them who would agree. |
Skot Richardswrote: Scarpa Mescalito Mid? |
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Real wall climbers know the truth  |
 Wish I could find some that fit me. |
Dylan Valvowrote: Where do you find these in the US? Never mind, Arborwear has them. |
Kevin Mokracekwrote: Nice! Yeah there’s a variety of arborist companies that carry them. It can be nice to try them on first. Arbpro also makes the clip n step which is likely more available in stores and looks super rad still. Let me know if you have sizing questions and I can give you some comparative info. |
Peter Zabrokwrote: I’d check out the La Sportiva Boulder Midtops, TX4 mid top, TX5 mid top or one of the other mid/high top TX series models. I got a pair of the Boulder Mid GTX but they’re too small (44.5 or 45). I need the list them for sale/trade so someone can get some use out of them. Some of the most promising looking wall shoes I’ve seen recently were actually arborist boots. They definitely had the right look as far as construction. It would be great to see some get reviewed. |
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I just ordered the boreal bigwall boots... there was one pair of 11s floating around online. Hopefully tthey fit. There's a few other sizes left online somewhere (backcountry amazon). Otherwise if they don't II'm going to switch to tx4s after my TX guides actually peeled the base of the shoes off. |
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FWIW, I finally broke down and bought the Leather TX Guide, I think someone earlier on the thread mentioned them, fantastic shoe. Stiff, not too heavy, still good for free moves up to 5.8/5.8+ I tried the synthetic guides as a replacement for the TX4 (IMO, the best aid shoe out there, prior to the Guide, at least for aid/french and being able to free up to 5.8/5.9) and they're just too narrow and will not stretch much. The Leather Guide has lacing all the way to the very tip of the toe, which allows for the exact fit you need, and has just slightly better performance than the TX4, both in the ladders and out. Costs a couple of bucks but worth it... and can almost always talk a BC rep into doing 20-25% off, even when the LS sale is not going on. |
Alex Ghiggeriwrote: I tried to buy some size 11s from amazon, but when I added them to the cart the Euro size it showed was definitely, not size 11. I contacted Boreal in Spain to find out why this shoe is unavailable everywhere, they were like: "I don't know... it should be... we are still making it..." |
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I need some new high top shoes for standing in aiders, and also to use with my ankle cam when jugging. Low top don't work for me. Recommendations? |
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Sportiva TX4 Mid GTX https://www.sportiva.com/tx4-mid-gtx.html Boreal Flyers Mid https://www.borealoutdoor.com/en/products/details/32120-flyers-mid Not too many other mid tops. |
Christopher Chuwrote: Good, thanks. It narrows my decision-making. I hate shopping; I just buy stuff. |
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Pete I’ve got a pair of the tx4 mids and have used them for awhile. I haven’t aided climbed in them that much (I avoid any aid climbing I can’t do in free shoes) but I’ve spent a fair bit of time in aiders jugging with the them. I really like them! The toe box is a bit roomier than the normal tx4 which I think is great if you only plan on standing in aiders. I don’t think the mids free climb as well as the low tops though. The mids are gore-Tex which I don’t find ideal in warm weather as they do have a tendency to retain more moisture than non gtx shoes. My guess is you bring lots of fresh socks on walls which will help with the moisture problem. I’ve also used the Boulder mids over the years and would have a hard time recommending them. I’ve had rand and sole delamination problems and generally find them to be a clunky and over all a sub par shoe. |
Mikey Schaeferwrote: As if ~ I ~ would care?! |
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I was just looking at the TX4s to replace a pair of delaminated Asolos. Something I could backpack in and also scramble with. Nice to know they perform well in aiders. |
Fat Dadwrote: Super Wide at the toe!!! |
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Started in Merrell Backpackers, black all leather with Vibram soles. Nike lavadomes, resolved with stealth rubber ( suggested by John Middendorf, I believe) these things were the best and I patched them and resolved them till the leather basically disintegrated! I had soles done by Komito boots in Estes park Colorado. Funny thing was I had bought some all suede Puma basketball shoes for $18 took them to Komito’s and for $50 had stealth soles and Randy put on. That’s custom rock shoes for $68! These things were the best friction shoes ever. I used 5.10 mountain masters, even though low top. Had some 5.10 guide tennis in regular and goretex that I loved for hiking, climbing, rescue and caving and earlier wet rock activities. It always seemed if 5.10 made a decent high top approach shoe it lasted no more than 2 years. Yet people still wanted them ( What gives?) Currently I will use my Salomon hiking boots with carbon fiber shanks. Light and stiff don’t feel the slings. For winter I used Koflach Ultra S, or One Sport Jannu, warmer alpine Asolo super soft. I know some who use skate shoes or good ole Chuck Taylor’s. I tend to think that they are to soft. This is one of our class attendees from 2015  |
