Stories of going on Major Climbs/Expeditions with Strangers

To say I am reticent is an understatement, but I am putting together a climbing expedition made up of strangers. On paper all those who applied appear to be skilled and experienced, and my personal requirement is that we meet and climb together at least once before the trip so I can gage those skills and likeability.

Alpine history is full of grand partnerships born from the necessity of having a partner. But it is also full of tales of regret.

What can you add to this discussion in terms of advice and stories. Let me hear the good, bad and the ugly!

https://expedicia.org/alyaska-skhodzhennya-na-denali-mckinley/?fbclid=IwAR0jog1orSpkABbhuosZdwf5LsDtarZJgUtal08NCTsUoRkZUBgOhyYMrRY

Edit - Not sure how to paste in google translate link to render English from Russian, but this story involves someone from Mountain Project who deceptively tagged along on this Russian expedition.

Ukrainian, whatever…. I am not sure how to link auto translate, but the story is worth reading, though long. I pasted the same link when the “hitchhiker“ was advertising for partners on Mountain project, but she managed to have the entire thread deleted.

Mount Mitchell in NC?

Terry Ewrote:

https://expedicia.org/alyaska-skhodzhennya-na-denali-mckinley/?fbclid=IwAR0jog1orSpkABbhuosZdwf5LsDtarZJgUtal08NCTsUoRkZUBgOhyYMrRY

Edit - Not sure how to paste in google translate link to render English from Russian, but this story involves someone from Mountain Project who deceptively tagged along on this Russian expedition.

Ukrainian, whatever…. I am not sure how to link auto translate, but the story is worth reading, though long. I pasted the same link when the “hitchhiker“ was advertising for partners on Mountain project, but she managed to have the entire thread deleted.

This should work - Translation

Terry Ewrote:

https://expedicia.org/alyaska-skhodzhennya-na-denali-mckinley/?fbclid=IwAR0jog1orSpkABbhuosZdwf5LsDtarZJgUtal08NCTsUoRkZUBgOhyYMrRY

Edit - Not sure how to paste in google translate link to render English from Russian, but this story involves someone from Mountain Project who deceptively tagged along on this Russian expedition.

Ukrainian, whatever…. I am not sure how to link auto translate, but the story is worth reading, though long. I pasted the same link when the “hitchhiker“ was advertising for partners on Mountain project, but she managed to have the entire thread deleted.

What did I miss in the linked article about the ‘hitchhiker’?

amariuswrote:

This should work - Translation

Cool! Thank you, amarius!

John Kelley’s posts and warnings were also deleted by MP about how he was scammed. The partner he acquired from MP later accused him of sexual harassment and slander.

Bunch of people who can’t find IRL partners, what could go wrong?  If I were 61 with this goal, I would do a guided expedition.

Michael Catlettwrote:

To say I am reticent is an understatement, but I am putting together a climbing expedition made up of strangers. On paper all those who applied appear to be skilled and experienced, and my personal requirement is that we meet and climb together at least once before the trip so I can gage those skills and likeability.

Alpine history is full of grand partnerships born from the necessity of having a partner. But it is also full of tales of regret.

Um, don't.

A day at the crag? Sure. An "expedition"? Not a great idea.

Michael Catlettwrote:

To say I am reticent is an understatement, but I am putting together a climbing expedition made up of strangers. On paper all those who applied appear to be skilled and experienced, and my personal requirement is that we meet and climb together at least once before the trip so I can gage those skills and likeability.

Alpine history is full of grand partnerships born from the necessity of having a partner. But it is also full of tales of regret.

What can you add to this discussion in terms of advice and stories. Let me hear the good, bad and the ugly!

You will likely have better luck with the 40+ crowd, especially for an expedition.

Younger tends to be more bull-headed and haven't quite figured themselves out yet.

James Wwrote:

Bunch of people who can’t find IRL partners, what could go wrong?  If I were 61 with this goal, I would do a guided expedition.

The “hitchhiker” did hire guides for Aconcagua and later claimed they robbed her. She always describes herself as a “hardwoman” victim, heroically battling patriarchy and racism.

James Wwrote:

Bunch of people who can’t find IRL partners, what could go wrong?  If I were 61 with this goal, I would do a guided expedition.

And what does my age have to do with it? Are you an agist and think guys my age can't hold their own in the Alpine?

I've gone on 2 Denali climbs with strangers. Once with one other person and once with a group of 3. Both worked out fairly well. It's a bit of a leap in faith to do it though.  Usually, these partners are not going to really care much about you. Route finding and decisions can be a problem when you don't know and trust each other's abilities. Even being in a tent with someone you don't know can be a pain after a while. If it's a choice of going or not I'd say it worth giving it a go. Just have a bail plan if you find out you don't trust your partners at some point and try to not get in a situation you can't handle yourself.   

A V wrote:

My assumption is that he means that your time is more valuable to you at your age - rather than as a comment on your ability in the Alpine. Guided expeditions are less prone to logistical hiccups + screw ups that are attributable to folks who have less experience than the guides do - there is a less overall chance of a botched trip when it is guided.

I understand the appeal of not doing a guided expedition - this is exactly how I prefer it, personally. Keeps the spirit of adventure and independence alive - but with that comes a higher risk of wild or disappointing stuff happening - and you have to sleep in that bed once you make it. 

If your partners don’t inspire confidence and you feel the risk of your expedition going poorly is too high - then a guided expedition would be a great second option to consider.

My assumption was that if you’re 61 and can’t find partners by now you’re either challenged socially or your friends keep dying.

Neither are good. ;)

Michael Catlettwrote:

And what does my age have to do with it? Are you an agist and think guys my age can't hold their own in the Alpine?

No - it means generally less time and patience to screw around with things not working out - and more money to pay guides with.

Plan on soloing ...  

Chad Millerwrote:

My assumption was that if you’re 61 and can’t find partners by now you’re either challenged socially or your friends keep dying.

Neither are good. ;)

Or you move around a lot.  Or your partners don't climb anymore.  Or your partners are a long-ass way away.  Or your partners can't take the time.  Or you don't want to climb with 20-30 somethings, for lack of commonality.  

Terry Ewrote:

The “hitchhiker” did hire guides for Aconcagua and later claimed they robbed her. She always describes herself as a “hardwoman” victim, heroically battling patriarchy and racism.

What is this "hitchhiker" talk about? Ive seen people dancing around the topic in regards to Denali, Aconcagua, and the Himalaya. Where could one find more information about this?

Skibowrote:

Or you move around a lot.  Or your partners don't climb anymore.  Or your partners are a long-ass way away.  Or your partners can't take the time.  Or you don't want to climb with 20-30 somethings, for lack of commonality.  

Or you put way too much thought into this and took things too seriously.   ;)

I  wouldn’t go on serious climbs or expeditions with complete strangers unless they are vetted by people who you trust absolutely and completely.

That’s the only condition I would consider it.

Your life and sanity are important; act like your life depends on it.

Best of luck 

E

Chad Millerwrote:

Or you put way too much thought into this and took things too seriously.   ;)

Then there's the socially challenged aspect.....

Nothing crazy but I drove across the country to Yosemite to meet some dude (stranger I’ve been talking to for months) and he texts me like everything is fine then I wake up in El Portal to a text that hes nowhere near there (later find he wasn’t even in the state or maybe even the country). He sends his friend to meet me who then decided to go to the casino for a week before climbing with me, so I wait like the naive patient dude I am, and a day before were supposed to meet hes like sorry can’t climb I gotta go.

Then there was that time I drove to Mexico on 20 minutes notice to meet a stranger down there and got robbed by corrupt Mexican police a few times

There was also that time when I first started climbing on a guided trip the guides had to carry a guy down Mt Baker because he didn’t feel like walking anymore. And boy did he love his cigarettes 

But my dumbass would still (maybe) pull something like this anyway