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Joshua Tree - Rainy Day Routes

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Jenna Frickinfrack · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 85

Weather is looking pretty grim for next week so I'm hoping for some back-up routes just in case the rain/snow hangs around. What might be dry? 

I'll trad lead 11s and the softest of 12s, but only 5.5 sportballz. 

Tradiban · · 951-527-7959 · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 212

Jtree dries quick, if it's not actively raining you can climb. It's not like the NW, there's many breaks in the rain. As for what stays dry in the rain, only a few of the overhanging hard sport routes, but alot of those go vert at the top and get wet high.

M M · · Maine · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 2

The new pavement shut me down on the chasm last time, i couldn't find it... No LSD and daylight may have been the problem though.

Sean · · Oak Park, CA · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 4,797

not much to do about 80% precip today and 60% on Mon. only 20-30% for the other days tho, as in likely lil or no rain out at high desert, and prob clearer on certain side of park on those days.  park is huge.  just look up at the sky to see the clearer side, and go climb there.  quite fine if flexible on what to climb

one time while main west side was getting drenched, we climbed at Pinto Basin to the east.  started at White Tanks, kept eye on rain clouds coming up from the south, and later moved to Belle ahead of those dark clouds.  got in a full day.  another time we climbed at Live Oak where it was clear and dry, while able to see a big rain coming down just few miles up the road.  afterward we drove out splashing through big puddles left by that same rain

Jenna Frickinfrack · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 85
Seanwrote:

not much to do about 80% precip today and 60% on Mon. only 20-30% for the other days tho, as in likely lil or no rain out at high desert, and prob clearer on certain side of park on those days.  park is huge.  just look up at the sky to see the clearer side, and go climb there.  quite fine if flexible on what to climb

one time while main west side was getting drenched, we climbed at Pinto Basin to the east.  started at White Tanks, kept eye on rain clouds coming up from the south, and later moved to Belle ahead of those dark clouds.  got in a full day.  another time we climbed at Live Oak where it was clear and dry, while able to see a big rain coming down just few miles up the road.  afterward we drove out splashing through big puddles left by that same rain

Thanks Sean, pretty familiar with the park so I'll stick with your advice and look for clear skies. I'm really flexible on route selection and happy to lead whatever looks rowdy!

B Donovan · · Boulder, CO · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 0

Forecast was grim, but had pretty stellar (albeit windy at times) conditions from empty Intersection Rock to empty Split Rocks. A couple dark spots but no big rain in the NW of the park mid day today that I saw.

Jenna Frickinfrack · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 85
B Donovanwrote:

Forecast was grim, but had pretty stellar (albeit windy at times) conditions from empty Intersection Rock to empty Split Rocks. A couple dark spots but no big rain in the NW of the park mid day today that I saw.

Neat! Ill be there for while starting tomorrow. Thanks for the report.

jt newgard · · San Diego, CA · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 461

I’ve been trying to break into 5.6 sport balls for many years myself. I recommend SW Corner on Headstone Rock, sure to be blustery as all get out. If you survive then you’re ready for “the ‘pine” fer sure.

Also, speaking more seriously consider Steve Canyon right behind hidden valley campground. It is a well known sheltered spot to warm up on wintry days. Always seems to be cold on New Years. One year my friend tunneled thru snow to summit the Colorado Crack then we had to dig around the snow drifts to find a way down.

Jenna Frickinfrack · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 85
jt newgardwrote:

I’ve been trying to break into 5.6 sport balls for many years myself. I recommend SW Corner on Headstone Rock, sure to be blustery as all get out. If you survive then you’re ready for “the ‘pine” fer sure.

Also, speaking more seriously consider Steve Canyon right behind hidden valley campground. It is a well known sheltered spot to warm up on wintry days. Always seems to be cold on New Years. One year my friend tunneled thru snow to summit the Colorado Crack then we had to dig around the snow drifts to find a way down.

Sportballs is for the real heros. Maybe one day I'll muster up the ovaries to wrastle a 5.6. For now, I'll stick with ballnutz and the sketchiest of cracks. Thanks for the recommendation!

Potter Wonderland · · Planet Earth · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 4,020

Todd's garage

jt newgard · · San Diego, CA · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 461
Jenna Frickinfrackwrote:

Sportballs is for the real heros. Maybe one day I'll muster up the ovaries to wrastle a 5.6. For now, I'll stick with ballnutz and the sketchiest of cracks. Thanks for the recommendation!

Haha ... dig your style! 

Check out Super Monster Killer for some sketchy crack action. I caught my friend on a tiny nut on it last season. Unfortunately lost the TR-onsight trying to lever it out....oof so close... oh yeah, you can warm up on a nice one next to it called Grain Surgery. Personally I'm looking to try Sidewinder, Jumping Jack Crack and Decompensator of Lhasa soon.... all in Steve Canyon of course!

If you get into some adventures consider posting up here, we are talking all climbing all the time here in the SoCal forum:

the flames, jtree

welcome !!

Kevin Crum · · Oakdale · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 56

How does the blm “dry” lake bed hold up in this weather. Will my 95 Sentra make it in and eventually make it out 

Russ Walling · · Flaky Foont, WI. Redacted… · Joined Oct 2004 · Points: 1,216
Kevin Crumwrote:

How does the blm “dry” lake bed hold up in this weather. Will my 95 Sentra make it in and eventually make it out 

Depends on how deep you go in…

Sam Cieply · · Venice, CA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 25
Kevin Crumwrote:

How does the blm “dry” lake bed hold up in this weather. Will my 95 Sentra make it in and eventually make it out 

It gets very soft and muddy, I don't think I would risk it after rain without 4x4.

ZT G · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2020 · Points: 50
Russ Wallingwrote:

Depends on how deep you go in…

Been sleeping there it’s fine for a 2wd car. 

Greg Davis · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 10

If it rains heavy enough the lake bed ceases to be dry, in 2018 (?) during the big overnight flash flood in October a friend of mine got stranded there with his family in a trailer for 2 weeks in mud

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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