Share the story of when you got sandbagged.

Title says it all. I will share first.

Spring 2010

My second year climbing I was couch surfing around Leavenworth, and at this time I had very few climbing partners. My climbing mentor who was a traddy daddy added me onto an email list. I think the name had something to do with "chatter" in it? He told me I could find other partners on there and many adventures awaited me. This sounded amazing, largely because I could not afford my own set of cams. The next day while working down in The Soup Cellar I began the hunt for another trad partner. At this time I could sometimes send 10- on bolts and maybe sent a couple 5.8 trad routes.

Quickly I got a response from a very experience climber from Western Washington. He said he would like to meet me at Index. I told him that I have climbed some 10s on bolts and I would love to check out some cracks.  I was familiar with Index, and I knew it was mostly hard climbing but I Imagined he would be doing all the leading. 

We met in the Lower Town Wall parking lot and I ogled his cams while we loaded up the back packs. The guy took me right to Godzilla (5.9) and quickly got to the anchors. I struggled my way up the pure steep cracks and eventually got to the chains breathing heavily. At this point, I remember mentioning how I was really inspired by pure cracks but they are still hard for me. Very unconcerned about anything I said, he took the cams back from me and lead up the 2nd pitch of City Park (10b). I honestly do not remember how that pitch went, all I remember is getting to the chains and he begins handing ME the rack!

We are at the base of Slow Children (10d). He begins to explain how this crack protects super well and he brought extra finger sized cams. He began to convinced me that I would be fine and might even send.

In reality I immediately struggled to even get into the crack, placed a cam and fell on it within the first 10 feet. He told me not to give up and to really jam my fingers in there. After some serious struggling and many falls I noticed that I no longer had feeling in my left pinky and I was only 15 feet up the route. I looked down and pleaded that he lead also lead this pitch.

He lead the pitch, cleaned the route, and started rapping us down.  The rest of the day was weird and we never talked again. The End

At the time I thought this was kind of normal. Years later I realized that this dude was pretty awesome. His sandbag has lived with me longer than many sends. Thank you long lost friend.

I'll play. In my first 2 or 3 years of climbing, when I was leading the occasional 5.11 sport and 5.9 trad, but by no means solid at those grades, I took a trip to J Tree with the guys who'd introduced me to trad climbing. On this trip I'd already gotten scared leading some 5.6 (Leaning Leana) and 5.7 (Toe Jam) routes that seemed a couple grades harder than Oregon crack standards. So I'm not sure why I agreed to onsight solo The Eye, other than "it's just 5.1! Come on, man, 5.1!"

I guess I was 26/27 and more susceptible to peer pressure, because even though 5.6 had already spooked with me, I went ahead climbed The Eye in between my mentors after getting super high (duh) and right before sunset (duh). On the second half of the route, in the death zone, I definitely felt my mortality on a few smeary moves and greasy holds and I did not enjoy the experience. In the cave up top I was able to chill out and be friendly with my buddies, but I also felt sandbagged and disappointed in myself that for a few minutes I'd treated my only life so carelessly.

I recognize now that this was some kind of old school hazing/sandbag, inflicted upon me lovingly. The experience had value as it showed me that if you have to ask "am I a soloist?" you are not a soloist. I am not a soloist. I'd give The Eye a 5.6 or 5.7. Definitely a sandbag at 5.1, what does 5.1 even mean? :) If you are used to the grainy greasy flaring J Tree style The Eye is a walk in the park, but 5.1 seemed pratty sandbaggy. Anyone else want to rate it?

What does 5.1 even mean? :) 

Sandbagged. In your case. That is bad grading.

In regards to the question, it is probably best used as a red flag for inexperienced climbers and hikers. A 4th class route suggests something that many hikers can easily manage, certainly beginner climbers. 4th class routes can also kill you so that might be one reason someone would consider a 5.1 grade. To keep the inexperienced climber or hiker out of trouble, especially if route finding is difficult. No experienced climber will care if it is hard 4th class or easy 5.1. Other than that, got no use for a 5.1.

I’d say 5.3 for the eye. We accidentally did this to a buddy of ours a few days ago on his first day at j tree. He was pretty gripped but kept it together. 

Nic Gravley wrote:

I’d say 5.3 for the eye. We accidentally did this to a buddy of ours a few days ago on his first day at j tree. He was pretty gripped but kept it together. 

Oh it's totally and clearly some black humor rite of passage. Unless and until someone actually falls and dies on it while soloing, no harm no foul.

I'd give it 5.6 at Smith Rock. On par with Cinnamon Slab. Harder than Round River (original 5.4 version).

This is kind of funny and random. I accidentally sandbagged my now wife on The Eye way back in the day. One of her first leads ever. She did not place any good gear. I got up to her and just gave her a hug and apologized. I had never done the route, just saw 5.1 in the book and walked over there. 

Climbed a route on Donner Pass when I was first getting back into climbing that is labeled as a 5.7 on Mountain Project but when you look at the local guidebooks its a 5.9 or 5.9+. Needless to say I met up with a 16yr old and we had never climbed together before. We were going to swap leads but I quickly figured out it was not within my leading abilities and this kid took charge and onsighted it like a boss! I got up it just fine but glad I didnt attempt to lead it then. 

first time in Tuolumne, seeing crowds both on, and heading to, West Crack from the pull-outs... "First time here? 5.9? Go down the road, there's a 5.9 dike running up the dome on the left side. Just follow the dike, you'll love it"

Two of my worst sandbags were at Vedauwoo.  First was this spring on Deception.  People I was climbing with said it was a 5.5 and it was soaking wet.  Ended up taking some bad beta on a seam that petered out and had to downclimb.  Second was the first pitch of Walt's Wall.  Was trying to gain the top of the first flake and had just sunk a bomber red BD nut above me.  Ended up falling twice on this thin fingers layback move where my feet kept blowing.  First fall on gear I had taken in nearly two years.

Was climbing White Lightning (5.7) in Joshua Tree as a budding 5.7 leader. Got to an alcove and could go right or left.

 Wasn’t sure but wanted to AVOID the 5.9 variation so I yelled down to the people below. Someone yelled, “It finishes right!” 

Turns out that was the 5.9 variation. First fall on gear about 10 feet from the top. Fractured my left ankle on a slabby protrusion.

BUMMER! Lesson learned.

Any route at Paradise Forks. Couldn’t get off the ground on 5.8 there.  Had to do the walk of shame. :(

@Dan: That “ slabby protrusion” on White Lightning demands a sacrifice of ankles on a regular basis. Without it, the Josuas won’t bloom and the sun won’t rise.  Thanks for taking one for the team.

First time to the valley, on Central Pillar of Frenzy. Sloan’s guidebook topo had the last pitch rated as 5.6. I took on the lead thinking it would be cruiser and happy that all the hard climbing was over (which had felt quite difficult since i wasn’t familiar with the crack climbing in Yosemite.)

Pretty much every trip I've ever been on after climbing in the gym for months.  Sandbagged on everything.  You name it.  Boulders, cracks, sport routes, etc.  Not much of a story, really.  I deluded myself into thinking I climb X grade and, uh, I don't.

My first pitch of aid climbing was P1 Zodiac. 

When I first was getting into trad (I had 5 leads under my belt, all in the 5.6-5.7 range) I went to the NRG, with the intent to get on easily flakey (5.7, quite well protected with exception to the traverse which is quite easy and still not what I would call "dangerous". Anyway, I get there and there's a guy there by himself with a top rope set up on the 5.11 that shares part of the route. He basically says that he's waiting for his buddy to get here, that he doesn't feel comfy with us doing easily flakey while he waits, and insinuates that there is a really great climb just behind him that would be a good one to do in the meantime. Me and my very clearly quite shiny rack take him at his word and head over to do this dihedral flaring crack. At this point, should mention that I felt crack was kinda overrated, by which I mean I had zero clue how to climb crack, and so I proceed to try and layback/stem/poorly jam this crack while placing gear. The entire time I'm absolutely gripped out of my mind and struggling so so so much. I end up taking a whipper and then after some time finishing the route, at which point I come down and basically curl up, completely and totally exhausted. I am mentally decimated. Guy comes around the corner, still partnerless hits me with "whewwee, those old school 5.9+ will get ya, huh?" Me internally "dawg I was trying to get on a 5.7 and you put me on a 5.9. smdh"

Tl:dr meant to get on 5.7, got on notorious 5.9+ "Jaws". Actually a really cool route that I'll def get back on one day, but boy was I not ready. Maybe for the best, who knows?

Another early trad days story.

Went with a buddy for an after work summer jaunt up the rewritten in Eldo, but not super familiar with the routes and where they start.  Get to the base of the climb and ask my buddy "this is it, right?"  He says "yup, watch the crux at the bulge, have fun."  Like an hour later I make it to the red ledge, completely gassed having placed my whole rack thinking 5.7 eldo is complete insanity.  Buddy rolls up a bit later offering up a high five and a nice work on getting the Green Spur clean!

Good times in Eldo :)

A few months after Shaun Johnson sandbagged me on The Eye, we took a trip to Smith Rock. At the Monkey's Mouth Shaun tells me I have the last pitch, that its 5.7 and only a few bolts. He gives me a handful of quick draws. After reaching around at panic point I see a line of very chalky holds and I cast off. Three bolts in, Shaun is asking what is taking me so long. As a small crowd of onlookers cheered from the opposite cliff, I struggled my way up the rest of Monkey on my back (5.8+), having to skipping several bolts. At the top, I belayed Shaun up with a sling I used as a chalk bag belt.

Fifteen years ago I did my first climb outdoors. It was a Shovel Point on the North Shore of MN. This is a top rope, top belay where you are lowered down a cliff over Lake Superior. I was supposed to be lowered on a 5.7 route. The young leader of the group mistakenly lowered me on Rosses Crack, a 5.10a dihedral with really thin features. I struggled for every inch of that climb. Forty minutes, and 90 feet later I topped out. 

I once climbed Nutcracker thinking it would be a nice easy 5.8

Edge, Recluse is still a sandbag at 11a!!!! I was sandbagged on it by the FFA party a short time after they did it--and surprised them--and myself--by getting up it (via the tree TR you mentioned)--had very thin fingers back then. Last Temptation at 10+ is also New England "good value".

Shaun Johnson wrote:

Title says it all. I will share first.

Spring 2010

My second year climbing I was couch surfing around Leavenworth, and at this time I had very few climbing partners. My climbing mentor who was a traddy daddy added me onto an email list. I think the name had something to do with "chatter" in it? He told me I could find other partners on there and many adventures awaited me. This sounded amazing, largely because I could not afford my own set of cams. The next day while working down in The Soup Cellar I began the hunt for another trad partner. At this time I could sometimes send 10- on bolts and maybe sent a couple 5.8 trad routes.

Quickly I got a response from a very experience climber from Western Washington. He said he would like to meet me at Index. I told him that I have climbed some 10s on bolts and I would love to check out some cracks.  I was familiar with Index, and I knew it was mostly hard climbing but I Imagined he would be doing all the leading. 

We met in the Lower Town Wall parking lot and I ogled his cams while we loaded up the back packs. The guy took me right to Godzilla (5.9) and quickly got to the anchors. I struggled my way up the pure steep cracks and eventually got to the chains breathing heavily. At this point, I remember mentioning how I was really inspired by pure cracks but they are still hard for me. Very unconcerned about anything I said, he took the cams back from me and lead up the 2nd pitch of City Park (10b). I honestly do not remember how that pitch went, all I remember is getting to the chains and he begins handing ME the rack!

We are at the base of Slow Children (10d). He begins to explain how this crack protects super well and he brought extra finger sized cams. He began to convinced me that I would be fine and might even send.

In reality I immediately struggled to even get into the crack, placed a cam and fell on it within the first 10 feet. He told me not to give up and to really jam my fingers in there. After some serious struggling and many falls I noticed that I no longer had feeling in my left pinky and I was only 15 feet up the route. I looked down and pleaded that he lead also lead this pitch.

He lead the pitch, cleaned the route, and started rapping us down.  The rest of the day was weird and we never talked again. The End

At the time I thought this was kind of normal. Years later I realized that this dude was pretty awesome. His sandbag has lived with me longer than many sends. Thank you long lost friend.

Sounds like you sandbagged yourself, since you told him you’ve climbed some 10s on bolts and really wanna crack climb.

If you told him what you’re telling us, that you ‘sometimes’ send 10- on bolts + the ‘maybe a couple’ 5.8 trad climbs, he may have had a different plan with you that day.