Yet Another Bolt Remover

Still didn't answer my question.

Jim Tittwrote:

Still didn't answer my question.

I can’t give you a precise number, but the YABR will snap a 3/8 stud in tension if you aren’t careful.

Mathieu Frescowrote:

Cletis did an awsome job and the design is really nice.

I will still remove the aluminum tip that tend to get loose after a few hundred pulls and leave the inox square pipe to interface with the rock.

Attachment point also get loose and I will recomend using loctite on every screws to avoid dropping your yabr a few hundred feet like I did. (Still work great)

Finally, I get the point of the removable handle, and don't get me wrong, I would probably love it if the bolt is really close from a corner but mean time it is a pain as it always get loose so I just loctited it in place and no longer have to hand tighten it 20 times a day.

I ve tested bolt replacement up to 5 times in hard rock (fooling around) before jumping to glue in so this tool is really worth every penny. 

Not to hijack the thread, but you also make your version of the bolt remover.

https://youtu.be/iK3yiZ7cwSc

Piotr Sobczakwrote:

Not to hijack the thread, but you also make your version of the bolt remover.

https://youtu.be/iK3yiZ7cwSc

Nice work. For climbers that can weld, that is an option. The screw threads require more muscle, but that tool is much cheaper to make. 

Use water to keep it cool next time :0)

Gregger Manwrote:

Nice work. For climbers that can weld, that is an option. The screw threads require more muscle, but that tool is much cheaper to make. 

Use water to keep it cool next time :0)

All kudos to Mathieu ;) 

cleatiswrote: Hi Folks,

I've been playing around with a few of the bolt extractor tool designs post here over the last couple of years.  I've been really impressed with the ease of use, power, and smoothness of Greg German/Dan Merrick's ball screw design.  Since I have access to a machine shop and good machinist and do a bit of CAD for my day job, I decided to add a bit of convenience functionality to the designs as well as try to make a design that could be built by people without metal working skills or access to tools/shops.  

The result is the Yet Another Bolt Remover (YABR, pronounced YABR).  Its really the Doodad 4, but I don't want to co-opt Greg's name without permission!  It features a removable handle (if working in a corner or around a rock feature that prevents the convenience of a fixed handle, the handle can be removed via a thumb screw and a crescent wrench used instead). The square tube is 'captured' to the rest of the tool so that it can not slide up/down the ball screw to prevent marring the threads.  The front piece is intended to spread the load over a larger area of the rock face to prevent chipping, and could be modified for software rock if necessary.

If enough people are interested (10?), I can get my machinist to make a run.  Total parts cost (ball screw, lots of McMaster parts, plus machined parts) is about 250$.  

Also, if any wants to machine these themselves or improve upon the design, I will happily share my CAD models as well.
 

Cheers to all of the tool creators and bolt replacers out there!

Ill take one... Who wants my money?

cleatiswrote: Hi Folks,

I've been playing around with a few of the bolt extractor tool designs post here over the last couple of years. I've been really impressed with the ease of use, power, and smoothness of Greg German/Dan Merrick's ball screw design. Since I have access to a machine shop and good machinist and do a bit of CAD for my day job, I decided to add a bit of convenience functionality to the designs as well as try to make a design that could be built by people without metal working skills or access to tools/shops.

The result is the Yet Another Bolt Remover (YABR, pronounced YABR). Its really the Doodad 4, but I don't want to co-opt Greg's name without permission! It features a removable handle (if working in a corner or around a rock feature that prevents the convenience of a fixed handle, the handle can be removed via a thumb screw and a crescent wrench used instead). The square tube is 'captured' to the rest of the tool so that it can not slide up/down the ball screw to prevent marring the threads. The front piece is intended to spread the load over a larger area of the rock face to prevent chipping, and could be modified for software rock if necessary.

If enough people are interested (10?), I can get my machinist to make a run. Total parts cost (ball screw, lots of McMaster parts, plus machined parts) is about 250$.

Also, if any wants to machine these themselves or improve upon the design, I will happily share my CAD models as well.

Cheers to all of the tool creators and bolt replacers out there!

Please put me down for one... What do you need from me?

Matt Kingwrote:

Please put me down for one... What do you need from me?

Hi OAW King,

Peter Thomas has taken over orders, production, and shipping. He has a form to fill out here: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/1LxFcGAUKRLtY8Gfrj0Rl1SOsurWTgd40VAoccpndzNg/viewform?edit_requested=true

thanks,

Casey (cletis)

Just shipped a box of parts to Peter for assembly. This round will mark 100+ YABRs out in the wild, fighting the good fight! 

I received mine and tested it on two 3/8 simpson wedge alls this weekend- it worked great!  Stud came out after peeling the wedge over the clip on the end of the bolt.  I was really impressed with the ease of use and consistency with my results.  Thank you Cleatis and Peter for this awesome product

Casey (cletis):

Be the next Yvon. Nice work.

Most of this batch has been shipped, and I think I contacted everyone who submitted the interest form. If you're interested in one, or previously submitted a form and didn't hear from me, please either fill out this form, or send me a message through MP. As of this morning 3 are unclaimed. 

I’d signed up for one previously and was just notified. Just sent my payment via PayPal. Excited for a quality, handmade tool!

I just made this video using the tool!  

  youtu.be/yzSkRNG7PSM

Sorry for mispronouncing the name, and the poor angle.

Any tips on one or both of the following?

1. Removing a wedge bolt from soft stone, without the clip on the end peeling off and getting stuck in the rock
2. Removing the wedged clip on the end from inside the hole

Jim Daywrote:

I just made this video using the tool!  

  youtu.be/yzSkRNG7PSM

Sorry for mispronouncing the name, and the poor angle.

Any tips on one or both of the following?

1. Removing a wedge bolt from soft stone, without the clip on the end peeling off and getting stuck in the rock
2. Removing the wedged clip on the end from inside the hole

1. Spin wedge wedge bolts before pulling. This will notch the cone on the stud, and the clip will ride out on it. Without spinning, in hard rock you’ll end up breaking the bolt, in soft rock, you’ll lose the clip like in your video. In really soft sandstone the clip may still expand off the bolt.
2. like you did, drilling through clip works. When expanding the hole, you may also be able to drill down to the clip, then pull it out with a hook tool instead of drilling through it. If drilling through, having a magnet on a stick to fish out pieces of metal helps keep the bit from binding. In my experience even stainless is slightly magnetic, and the heat/mangling from drilling seems to increase the magnet. 

Here’s a very simple video I did on removing wedge bolts. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ZNP4lIytqvk

hope this helps 

Peter Thomaswrote:

1. Spin wedge wedge bolts before pulling. This will notch the cone on the stud, and the clip will ride out on it. Without spinning, in hard rock you’ll end up breaking the bolt, in soft rock, you’ll lose the clip like in your video. In really soft sandstone the clip may still expand off the bolt.
2. like your did, drilling through clip works. When expanding the hole, you may also be able to drill down to the clip, then pull it out with a hook tool instead of drilling through it. If drilling through, having a magnet on a stick to fish out pieces of metal helps keep the bit from binding. In my experience even stainless is slightly magnetic, and the heat/mangling from drilling seems to increase the magnet 

Here’s a very simple video I did on removing wedge bolts. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ZNP4lIytqvk

hope this helps 

Super helpful Peter!  I'll try both these techniques this weekend.  I'll get a high power magnet, and try a coat hanger or something similar for a hook.

(Apologies if this has been discussed up-thread)

 What's the success rate of this thing on 3/8" compression bolts? I've had ~60-70% success cleanly removing 3/8" splits in our local granite/gneiss with the Hurly Jr, would love to improve that stat. Any luck with drop-ins?

Lots of how too info elsewhere but the Hurley puts a twisting force on the bolt. Doodad does not. So you can pull harder without breaking.

Rawl drives (compression bolts) if they are very rusty tend to just break. Solution is to drill small holes next to bolt. 3/16". Then Doodad will pull it out. 

timothy fisherwrote:

Rawl drives (compression bolts) if they are very rusty tend to just break. Solution is to drill small holes next to bolt. 3/16". Then Doodad will pull it out. 

Would this method leave a hole small enough to drill out to 1/2" for replacement w sleeve bolts, or are we talking glue-ins at that point?

cleatiswrote:

Yes Greg, that is the way I do it too.  I just don't like the crescent wrench part and rethreading the doodad back on.  I am hoping to design a part that slips over the SDS and grabs onto the slim gap between the coupling nut and the SDS adapter.  First step is to run a FEA on the part and see if it will be strong enough.  Do you have an estimate of how much force is necessary to pull a properly spun bolt?  

Cleatis and Co, any update on this idea? I'd heartily agree that switching between the two adaptors from spinning to pulling is time consuming and frustrating, and can be a royal PITA if the spinning part didn't go so well (I only use the Hurley Jr but it sounds like it's the worst of the lot in this respect since the adaptor threads aren't interchangeable). This is the huge unicorn of wedge bolt pulling, I'd say. Is there even a way to adapt a puller to the SDS system that would endure the forces involved?