JOSHUA TREE- ANCHOR MISSING ON TOP OF DOG DAY AFTERNOON.

A couple got on top of Dog Day Afternoon, 5.10b in Jtree today. Only to find holes where an anchor once was. Along with another anchor with only bolts, and no hangers. They managed to get down safely but this was a risky situation that could have resulted in a rescue. Beware. This is not first hand information, but I will be sure to update if I hear anything further. 

why would this ever result in a rescue? Just leave a couple biners and rap off. Always sucks to leave gear but definitely not a rescue situation.

NPS official closure coming?

Hard to figure why someone would mess with those bolts. But rescue? It's a walk off.

NICK onamoRwrote:

A couple got on top of Dog Day Afternoon, 5.10b in Jtree today. Only to find holes where an anchor once was. Along with another anchor with only bolts, and no hangers. They managed to get down safely but this was a risky situation that could have resulted in a rescue. Beware. This is not first hand information, but I will be sure to update if I hear anything further. 

Why was this a risky situation and how would it have resulted in a rescue? Asking for a friend. 

We just need one more person to ask why this would be a rescue. Will it be you?

Ok - no mention of rescue from me.  

Nick, if you have not, suggest using MP’s “Improve this page “ feature to update the route description.  Maybe edit the description and protection sections with the date the anchor bolts were found to be missing? Suspect something like that would be promptly approved.

Kristian Solemwrote:

Hard to figure why someone would mess with those bolts. But rescue? It's a walk off.

^^^^

This.

all kidding aside, this could result in a rescue.

Russ Wallingwrote:

all kidding aside, this could result in a rescue.

Sad, but probably some truth in that. 

Could be solved by painting down climbing directions at the top.

Sirens heading into the Park right now... probably a rescue on  Dog Day Afternoon.  God speed

I never knew there was a walk off on this one. I always just rapped down thinking I was on top of a pillar. When there are rap rings I never even pay attention to other ways off. 

12/5/2021 ... those bolts are missing.  The downclimb from this ledge is 5th class for about 20 feet.  After that head west and it is an easier scramble off.  These were brand new ASCA bolts in the recent past.  Unsure why they got removed.

https://www.nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/fixed_anchors.htm

Be well, 

Bernadette Regan

bernadette_regan@nps.gov

JTNP Climbing Ranger

Silver volvo wagon with all terrain tires? Lolz...

I never remember a walk off from this. I do remember, before someone installed the bolts, doing a J2 from near the top to the formation next to it that had Lickety Splits on it.  

Does anyone know what size gear you’d need to bring to set up a belay anchor up there now that there’s no bolts? It’d be good to let people know so they don’t go up there with no way to belay their second. 

Not Hobo Greg wrote:

Shawn Snyder is in fact in town. I hate jumping to conclusions but his horrid reputation forces me to think it’s his doing.

Muther fucker….. 

Fat Dadwrote:

I never remember a walk off from this. I do remember, before someone installed the bolts, doing a J2 from near the top to the formation next to it that had Lickety Splits on it.  

I'm sure I've walked off this formation from the top. 

Okay, maybe it was more like "climbed off..." At the time I was climbing pretty hard and bat-shit crazy at the same time, a bad mix for sure...   

Odd. It is three days after this thread was created and the MP route description still references a bolted anchor at the top, not even a pending update.  Could it be the bolt removal never happened?

Bill Lawrywrote:

Odd. It is three days after this thread was created and the MP route description still references a bolted anchor at the top, not even a pending update.  Could it be the bolt removal never happened?

Hmmm, what is more likely?

The bolts were removed as described by the OP and by the local JTNP climbing ranger and MP just hasn’t been updated (but the bolt removal is in the comments section)

or 

MP route description is the definitive source, the bolts were never removed, and B Regan is lying or her account is not real.

csproul wrote:
Hmmm, what is more likely? ….

Seems likely it happened. Just surprising no update to description - especially given the all-caps five-alarm-fire headline and mention of potential need for rescue.

I’d do it myself except I aim to update just what I’ve seen.