New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #18

Wishing Tony and you the best, Lori. Waiting out surgery is hard.

Yeah, thinking of both of you!

H.

Tony's a lucky guy having you in his life.

Lori Milaswrote:

I killed it.

Congratulations Lori for the clean ascent of Old Soft Shoe. Good work. That is not a give away.

Well, I thought I’d let Tony say it himself.  “I love you and I love everyone and I love the anesthesiologist and all the nurses and I love your your rock climbing and  tell Bob I love him and I am so happy …”  He’s very stoned.    

Oh, and out of the blue he remembered “That Old Soft Shoe” and “Intercourse Rock”.  He loves those rocks.   

Best wishes for a speedy and successful recovery for Tony!

Mark Frumkinwrote:

     

^^^what he said.

And, speedy and complete recovery, and some random hugs from afar, too! 

H.

Really really great news. 

Glad it all worked out Lori!

Dr. Bhatia is the best.

Such cool climbing today. Short, sweet session at The Summit. Led 'Easy Peasy' (20, 5.10c) which I tried on TR for the first time last weekend. Felt good today, got it second go. Then tried 'The Natives are Restless' (21) on TR, had a sit. Then did a link up (20/21) to TNaR, and then tried to TR a 24. Cut my finger open on a crystal in a pocket. Bled all over the place... Cool sesh... 

Norton Summit is up high above a road cutting through the lush Adelaide hills, the weather is unseasonably mild, normally it's hot by now. It was chilly when we got there at 730, about 14 deg C. This is about the easiest thing there. Some of the rock is a bit greasy.... 

https://youtu.be/At1pyhCO3l0

Intercourse Rock has always been one of my favorites.

Did  Tony pull though okay?

The Alpinist is currently on Netflix.

John

Oldtradguywrote:

The Alpinist is currently on Netflix.

John

I saw the alpinist in the theater a few months ago and what a spectacular treat. If you can see it on Netflix be sure and do so!  

Thanks for asking,  Nick, Tony is fine or getting fine and I decided to come home for a few days.  The doctors are pretty stoked about what all they found in his lumbar spine, crunched nerves they freed up and fixed, bone Spurs they removed… nothing is guaranteed but he has a chance now of having a life.  He also decided he will eat cooked spinach going forward. So I dunno…  Drugs have affected him.  

Continuing a conversation I had with John this morning, I’ve been having a real come to Jesus moment about lead climbing and top roping. I know I’ve been a little touchy about the words “just top roping“ and feeling less than when I work so hard at it, but I’ve always felt I had to make responsible decisions at this breakable age. Also I am just so aware of the limited time left to really go for it on big rocks and top roping is the only way I’ll ever do that. 

But I can’t get my mind off of That Old Soft Shoe (10d) and comprehending the enormous difference between Nelson leading up and my following. What he did and I did are not remotely in the same universe, so I don’t know how to claim climbing that route. The moves to that first bolt we’re just so hard, but on a top rope that’s all I had to think about. Nelson had to think about his life.

And so I know you all are in a special elite boys club (with a few girls).  and no where do those two worlds meet. I have so much awe and respect for what you all do and have done.  We can hardly call lead climbing and top rope climbing  being the same sport.

I’m going to try to stop getting into a snit over what feels like diminishment of hard efforts because with every journey out I see your skills and strength more clearly.  I still deeply appreciate the gift of learning to climb on these beautiful routes, even if it’s “just a top rope”.. 

One small afterthought.  I don’t know if it was parachute or who that mentioned how completely safe top roping is. So maybe I’m a clutz but I do continue to get myself into jams where real injury is possible.   The below picture is one such occasion where I was trying to heel hook up onto a ledge, lost my grip and left my foot behind as I hung upside down for a minute. I don’t know how  I didn’t break my ankle but it taught me not to be totally casual about this sport. That small traverse on heart and soul also had a pretty decent swing potential.  I may still take my rack out from time to time for some very easy leading but if I want to climb Figures (and I DO) in this lifetime it will be on a top rope.  

(Lost my grip in next frame and left my foot wedged in that crack).  

"top roping is completely safe" is pretty much a bullshit line. Yeah, it can be....that does not mean it is. My "hey, it's top rope, go for it!" mantra to you still has that heads up caveat going.

If that were true, top rope is always safe?

Being a follower on a climb would also be "completely safe", when it can actually be harder and less safe to follow. Those big swings you've already contemplated, and other stuff too.

And?

Look dear, it isn't either/or.

For your fearless leaders?

I don't know about your particular routes, but, it isn't always required to risk death just to get the first bit of the climb done. That's when people use stick clips and other tools. In theory, modern "sport" climbs are supposed to be relatively safe to fall from, once that first bolt or two are clipped. Huge amount of stuff isn't, just sayin.

There's the use of draws to extend your reach while leading. The possibility to place extra gear, even on "sport" climbs, aid the thing, and the list goes on.

There's also being old enough that you can do this shit any way you want, lol! No "less than" folderol. After all, if you wasted more time cruising the MP forums at large, you'd realize some self appointed style czar is ALWAYS available to piss in your Cheerios!   

Glad to hear the surgery hopefully will help! Tell the man howdy!

Best, Helen

Lori Milaswrote:

Cutting to the chase here… has anyone created a home gym and do you use it? What’s the minimum equipment or machine necessary to have an enjoyable and useful workout?  

Lots of ways to do this.  I have done some bodyweight-only routines that required TRX like gymnastic rings.  My favorite train at home set up is a few kettlebells.  My ultimate home gym would be a tension or kilter board when I win the lottery :)

How do you like the rower?

Lori Milaswrote:

I killed it. I really needed the win today.  

YES!

and YES that Tony is recovering 

Lori Milaswrote:

Continuing a conversation I had with John this morning, I’ve been having a real come to Jesus moment about lead climbing and top roping. I know I’ve been a little touchy about the words “just top roping“ and feeling less than when I work so hard at it, but I’ve always felt I had to make responsible decisions at this breakable age.

There are sound reasons to TR a climb besides it being beyond one's strength and/or technical capability.  Lack of reliable gear is one.  Missing some key/specialized/large camming devices is another.  At sport areas, some lines are left as TR because if they were bolted, these lines will just be varaints or worse; "squeeze jobs" among the bolted lines.  I am sure there are other reasons why a TR is at times the right/sound decision regardless of technical difficulty.  

As a lead climber, I believe one ought to be responsible to "protect one's second", and do the best job possible at it. In the Northeast, there are numerous climbs involving traverses which can be more fearful for the follower than the leader. Protecting your second is not something obvious for many leaders. I freely admit I had slipped up badly at least three times over the years and gotten an earful from my experienced seconds afterwards each time.

At our age, one key thing to avoid is getting hurt.  A simple injury can set us back for months if not a year or more.  But we also have the wisdom to extend our longevity by recognizing our diminished limits and making smart decisions accordingly.  Taking a TR instead of the sharp end is better than getting all banged up.  

Keep climbing and keep having fun doing it!  Best to you and Tony.

S. Neohwrote:

There are sound reasons to TR a climb besides it being beyond one's strength and/or technical capability.  Lack of reliable gear is one.  Missing some key/specialized/large camming devices is another.  At sport areas, some lines are left as TR because if they were bolted, these lines will just be varaints or worse; "squeeze jobs" among the bolted lines.  I am sure there are other reasons why a TR is at times the right/sound decision regardless of technical difficulty.  

Thank you so much, S. Neoh.  This helps!  

I have felt so much joy about being able to start an adventure like climbing at an 'advanced' age... just the irony of it gives me some subversive pleasure.  I don't want it taken away, and I want to extend the time as much as possible.  These few years, after finally freeing myself from the heavy responsibilities of childrearing, business and home, they are precious.  I'm trying to manage my time out there wisely and not end it prematurely with a busted ankle, hip or head.  

Another thing I wouldn't have guessed is how specialized climbing can be... indoor gym climbing, outdoor sport, multi-pitch, trad, crack, slab, overhung, bouldering.  A youngster can spend years on everything.  In my few years I feel like I want to focus on a few beloved types of climbing and do what I can with those.  (slab, thin face) This has been like one of those accelerated college courses... pick your topic (face climbing) and GO.    

I haven't had the sense that leading, at least around here, is my best use of time.  It is bittersweet, since belaying partners leading on up hard routes makes me wistful.  There are just paths not taken.    

Meanwhile, is this just crazy that we get to do this thing?  It's an enormous and unmerited gift, is how I feel about it.