New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #18

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

....  if you get enough really big days cruising on stuff that is in a difficulty range that you always get it first try a ton of stuff starts to click. Notably your footwork and vision. You start to float up the the cliff without  having to think about the how.  

That worked for me too.  

Randywrote:

Lori, Having extreme trepidation about such a surgery is completely understandable. There is a considerable amount of the unknown in this and it may come down to trusting what his "gut" is telling him. Wishing you both our best wishes.

Hey Randy! I thought you were going to say having extreme trepidation about a CLIMB is understandable, but then again I feel that most of the time.   Thank you for your kind sentiments. Tony wants me to just drop him off at the front of the hospital and return nine days later to take him home… Kind of a tuck and roll. That’s not gonna happen.

Per the great advice here I had a whale of a good time today. I had never climbed diamond dogs before and I don’t recall climbing Lickity splits  although I think I was there once with Bob. The name iZardoz rang a bell. Maybe when you feel confident enough to laugh and crack jokes and not get too intense while climbing you know you’re probably where are you should be.It’s been a while since I really laughed and felt like I was just having fun.

I didn’t spend too much time working on that undercling, It’s a strenuous move.  That face wall is very slick and I tried but failed to do the wide stem to the flake. .But there’s a slab leaning up against that route and I was able to get a good start from there. We’ll call it a “diamond dogs variation”.   I climbed those routes several times trying to get easy with cracks and layback’s so I thought it really went well.

In fact that flake was a gas and surprisingly the whole slab above it took some focus.   

It’s always fun to get to watch Nelson climb.  Whatever he’s willing to let me belay him on, toprope or lead, it always leaves me a little breathless and starstruck. I learn something every time I watch a better climber climb.  We have developed a really warm friendship over the years, so there are blessings all around.  Way more than technique comes out of these outings.  I believe this route is called Bunnies (11+).  Whyever were the bolts chopped on this route and who makes that decision?  

Another gorgeous day here in DE yesterday; sunny and 70 F, right up until a cold front moved through around 1700.  Couple pics form one of my favorite climbs at Safe Harbor, PA called Cross Roads.  Delicate face to begin, then a nice combo of tiny edges, pockets, stemming, and choice of stemming or a powerful high step off a jug to finish.  I was not happy with the lead attempt, so tried to improve the sequence on TR.

We are now back to our regularly scheduled November weather of upper 40's and low 50's.

TS

Just a reminder and a heads up, for any who are interested in Over 50 get togethers in 2022. 

I'll start a thread for the June City of Rocks one, soon, that's reserved, at least the Breadloaves group camp. If anyone wants 59 or 60, they should jump on them. 

But, we are now very close to the 9 month ahead on September reservations (August is booking), if anyone wanted that for this group for City. I'm not planning on doing that one, so it's up to you people. Meaning, I don't plan to make those reservations. I'll show up at COR anytime anyone is game to go, if the weather is good enough! 

I hope to have that elective surgery....eventually. No idea at all when that might happen, as the surgeon I'm interested in hasn't set any dates for 2022 yet. They have to wait to see what surgery dates are assigned them, then work from that to make appointments. The system is so bolluxed up! They're doing their best, but it's crazy! I'm so glad I don't actually need anything.

Got my booster Wednesday, still have a sore arm. Other than that, just draggy, but that could be the dull, cold, weather. My cat's sleeping 20 hours a day, it seems, so maybe it's her influence, turning me into a feline??

........

Hey Lori, give my best to Tony, eh? Only he can decide. Just remind him he isn't alone in this, and to think long term. 

That's very much a climber thing, risk versus reward. I know when I have something like this, climbing or otherwise? I pre fuss. Think all the terrible thoughts. Get scared. Get upset. Cry. 

Then the real thought process can come into play. Think it through. Plan. Act. Tell the fear we have a plan for the likely outcomes. 

And the unlikely ones?

Well....

That's just the price for being alive.

Yeah, it's hard. Every bit of it is hard.

So pick your hard (thanks, Erika!).

Best, Helen

In our quest to climb historic routes in Mexico, we went to Las Cargadas, near Mineral de Montes.  We found some routes with homemade ancient bolts, hangers and anchors.  None of us were brave enough to climb on that s--t.  But it was a beautiful small valley where the local town had put in four zip lines, the longest being 550 meters.  Today, rain all day, hoping the forecast is correct and that we'll be able to climb at Leon Aldo.

Main feature at Las Cargadas with an aid route with pins at least 60 years old.  No thanks!

Hey Bob, Your adventures are inspiring.

Is that a natural formation or was it carved by an ancient people who worshipped los gatos?

Brandt Allenwrote:

Hey Bob, Your adventures are inspiring.

Absolutely. Thanks for posting up.

Very cool Bob . . . 

Brandt Allenwrote:

Hey Bob, Your adventures are inspiring.

Is that a natural formation or was it carved by an ancient people who worshipped los gatos?

The rough translation in this instance of Las Cargadas is "rocks piled on rocks".  The formation, primarily andesite, from a lava flow, then shaped by erosion.  But who really knows, there are lots of cats around.  And maybe cat worshippers!

Seems a long way to go for a choss pile, Bob.

Or a cat. 

Jay Goodwinwrote:

Seems a long way to go for a choss pile, Bob.

Yes, but we've been to 7 different areas and that was the only strike out.  The rest were good to very good and King Kong is really a classic.

So chuffed to lead October today. Last time I led it was 2018 and I feel it's one of my 'benchmark' climbs.

I didn't think I was strong enough, but after following Bill up Gladiator I felt inspired.

Age shall not weary them,

They shall fight,

Lest they go gentle,

Gentle like obedient lambs,

Into a dark, dark goodnight...

https://youtu.be/Qae79K-ijhI

Carl Schneiderwrote:

So chuffed to lead October today. Last time I led it was 2018 and I feel it's one of my 'benchmark' climbs.

I didn't think I was strong enough, but after following Bill up Gladiator I felt inspired.

Age shall not weary them,

They shall fight,

Lest they go gentle,

Gentle like obedient lambs,

Into a dark, dark goodnight...

https://youtu.be/Qae79K-ijhI

Carl, really nice!  I don't know if there is any such thing as 'inappropriate whining' in climbing.  Go ahead and whine!  

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I thought I'd ask this question here.  Does anyone have a workout room at home, or workout equipment... or even a workout routine that you have established for yourself at home?  If so, can you share what it is, please?

I am 90% decided on setting up something here at my house.  After a lot of research I ordered a rower.  One of the questions someone posed to the row company was "How many pounds of coats will this handle when you don't use it?"     I get that that is the fate of most home machines.  

But I just realized that I'm a little stranded here.  The gym is 10 miles away, it was shut down over a year due to COVID, and I'm not managing to get there now.  I've got stuff going on here at home that makes it hard to get back into a routine.  Months are going by with very little real exercise... and time's a wastin'.  

Cutting to the chase here… has anyone created a home gym and do you use it? What’s the minimum equipment or machine necessary to have an enjoyable and useful workout?  

 "Rows, core and off set pullups." 

Idaho Bobwrote:

The rough translation in this instance of Las Cargadas is "rocks piled on rocks".  The formation, primarily andesite, from a lava flow, then shaped by erosion.  But who really knows, there are lots of cats around.  And maybe cat worshippers!

Bob, I've been admiring your pictures and stories.  So glad you are posting these.  What an adventure--and we get to be a virtual part of it.    

Lori Milaswrote:

I thought I'd ask this question here.  Does anyone have a workout room at home, or workout equipment... or even a workout routine that you have established for yourself at home?  If so, can you share what it is, please?

I have a small, 12'x12' bouldering wall in the garage, overhung 30 degrees, which in retrospect is too much, should have gone with 15 degrees.  Hangboard above a doorway.  I'll email you my workout plan, two parts, daily stretching and exercises and, gym workout.  Adjust the gym workout weights should be adjusted based on your personal RPM (one repetition max.).   Recommend that you strengthen rotator cuff muscles before attempting any "hard" pulls.  I'll also send a PDF on rotator cuff workouts.  The rotator cuff exercises are VERY important for many people.  My goal is to do them every day when not climbing. 

Lori- please extend my support to Tony. Any surgery is hard- this one is really dicey.

Great to see that all are getting after it.

Have fun 

Lori, for cardio I highly recommend cycling. Personally I think road biking is far too dangerous, based on the number of friends who have been hit by vehicles resulting in serious injuries. Mountain or gravel biking is a lot safer, very fun, and I expect JTree possibly has some good trails.

Terry Ewrote:

Lori, for cardio I highly recommend cycling. Personally I think road biking is far too dangerous, based on the number of friends who have been hit by vehicles resulting in serious injuries. Mountain or gravel biking is a lot safer, very fun, and I expect JTree possibly has some good trails.

Terry I am so glad you mentioned this! I’m not sure what the rules are around here about biking on trails but we do have a bike shop in town and I’ll check that out.  Ask for road biking there’s not a day that I don’t have to swerve around bicyclist on the road around here and it scares the bejeebers out of me. I’m not willing to bicycle these one/two lane roads myself.  

But my main goal here was to set up what I can do at home, on a 40° dark morning, and 110° afternoon. There are too many days when outside just doesn’t work and driving to the gym just doesn’t work.  

@Carl, that was great! You're looking pretty darn good, kid!

Lori, I ordered my Concept2 rower March 2020. I tried it elsewhere, and like it. Do I use it as often as I could/should? Probably not, but it isn't neglected, either. It can be as slow, or not, as you like. Be sure to get the form correct, and consider getting rowing shorts! Blisters where the sun don't shine....

I have sets of dumbbells, 3-25 pounds.

TRX straps, and the anchor for them on the ceiling.

A situp pad.

A yoga ball.

Pads.

Ankle weights.

Surgical tubing.

Resistance bands.

Weight bench.

Not all of it is used at the moment, but all of it gets used at various times. I'm now in my third round of Physical Therapy assigned exercises. Those are usually small movements, but hard.

My Fitbit Charge 3 is worn everday. Honestly, walking has been the thing I do the most of, and can easily talk myself into. I admit, my favorite baristas could be part of that, lol!

I'd say, if there's something you enjoyed, or at least didn't mind, at the gym? Go for that. 

But? 

For myself?

Doing this at home, on my own?

It's kinda grim.

I've not wanted to spend the money, but, I can see the appeal of buying into Peloton, Hydrow, or something like that. 

I'm looking into a flesh and blood, in person physical trainer, maybe in January. Haven't decided yet.

Best, Helen

EDIT to add, also these beauties! (Thanks, John and Jean!!) I only use the tops (jugs) so far, but hey, I'll sneak up on the hangs!

All this is in the second bedroom, where the closets have all the camping gear, and drawers have ice climbing stuff. A hideabed for any climbing friends who show up, but not much else. Right now, it's storing paint and supplies, for redoing pretty much every room in the house. The "new" bathroom is under my bed!   

Once painted, I'll be hanging some mirrors, and climbing related stuff on the walls. The ceiling will be torn pieces of paper maps my late husband accumulated over his lifetime, from all over the world, and many types of maps.