Great deals on bolts, hangers, and other hardware

Well if you are using 3/8 bolts as standard in the BSF area you are fucking up. 

There is huge difference in the hardness off the Chatt/Obed rock with that of just a bit farther north

brand new never used  1/2in removable bolt. $55.00 free shipping.

No way would I ever equip a route so that you needed  this thing to climb it. I leave my routes fully equipped or I don't drill.   the real use for this is as a work bolt.   I never used it because I don't do that much steep overhanging bolting. 

Crimpin Ain't Easy wrote:

These are actually pretty neat I've used one. It still requires a manufactured hole but instead of a bolt u place what feels and acts like a trad piece. Perhaps the peaceful middle ground in the war between trad and sport extremists?

If the route is less than vertical, the holes fill in with silt, so you'd need a hole brush and a blow tube to clean the hole (if you can find it...).

If the route is vertical to overhung, wasps will likely nest in it and fill it in. One time I replaced a 1/4" bolt that had fallen out of the rock a few years before, then a wasp built a nest in the hole, so it was hard to even find the hole (tan mud on gold-colored rock).

Crimpin Ain't Easy wrote:

These are actually pretty neat I've used one. It still requires a manufactured hole but instead of a bolt u place what feels and acts like a trad piece. Perhaps the peaceful middle ground in the war between trad and sport extremists?

Have used one as a temporary bolt while exploring a sequence in a big overhang. Definitely bring a long skinny flathead screwdriver out if its your first time using it, they are prone to getting stuck when aiding. 

I Fwrote:

Have used one as a temporary bolt while exploring a sequence in a big overhang. Definitely bring a long skinny flathead screwdriver out if its your first time using it, they are prone to getting stuck when aiding. 

I had nothing but trouble with them in sandstone. I prefer a Titen HD and hanger. The RB's could be nice for harder rock though maybe.

Matthew Jaggerswrote:

I had nothing but trouble with them in sandstone. I prefer a Titen HD and hanger. The RB's could be nice for harder rock though maybe.

Mine was in phylite/schisty stuff, so definitely soft. 

Greg, i had a mud wasp fill in a  key  finger pocket on one of my routes.  It was a pretty  exciting spot  to be missing a hold. Had to  clean it out with my nut tool. 

Sorry. update here. Its probobly sold waiting on pay pal to confirm. then there is another person in my inbox who is 2nd in line if the sale falls through.  Gringo is now 3rd in line. 

Removeable bolt is sold. 

C Williamswrote:

I have a solid stack of hardware for sale if anyone is interested. I’ll update this as things sell or I find more junk do get rid of.

• Three boxes of 20 Hilti KB-TZ anchors. Bolts are 1/2 x 5-1/2” SS316. $90 per box or $250 for all 3.
• SS316 hangers!!! In bags of 50. These were special ordered last year for a project that fell through. 3/8”(10mm) and 1/2”(13mm) holes available. 9 bags left, so don’t be shy! $150 per bag of 50.

Just wanted to say thanks to Chris for a quick response and excellent hangers! It sounds like he still has a bunch of hardware left.

selling some awesome titen HD bolts here - mountainproject.com/forum/t…

Hey Cole, I'm curious about the applications for Titen HD bolts. Not finding a thorough spec sheet online. What sort of rock have you used these in? Any issues with pullout? I'm set on bolts, but this forum has been a good place to compare notes on novel hardware.

Edit: I feel a bit guilty for derailing the thread, but I appreciate everyone's generosity below.

Logan Petersonwrote:

Hey Cole, I'm curious about the applications for Titen HD bolts. Not finding a thorough spec sheet online. What sort of rock have you used these in? Any issues with pullout? I'm set on bolts, but this forum has been a good place to compare notes on novel hardware.

There's a long thread about these in the Hardware forum. Short story is that they aren't widely tried and trusted for climbing yet

Andy Bwrote:

There's a long thread about these in the Hardware forum. Short story is that they aren't widely tried and trusted for climbing yet

This is part of the short story. Other part is that they are so strong fixe hangers will literally get pulled off the bolt in pull testing. They are not known to loosen and have no moving parts.

Biggest pain in the ass is proper installation and heavy tools necessary. But this is not the thread for such discussion - agreed. 

Just to add... Titen HD bolts are only holding onto the rock by its threads, so long term applications should not be considered. They are amazing temp bolts though.

Matthew Jaggerswrote:

Just to add... Titen HD bolts are only holding onto the rock by its threads, so long term applications should not be considered. They are amazing temp bolts though.

Not sure I understand that logic. The ones I use are stainless. There is so much thread material it dwarfs the amount of material of both wedge and sleeve style bolts making mechanical contact with the rock very secure. Thats like saying long term wedge bolts should not be used because they are only held in place by two small expansion dimples. If we are going to make arguments against new technology we shouldnt fall into the fear, uncertainty and doubt category of early adopters. Lets provide sound evidence and hypothesis for the statements we make. The engineers are so satisfied  with the holding power and longevity of the threads that in larger applications they recommend removal for inspection (for applications such as bridges) where the bolts can be removed up to 10 times inspected and replaced in the same hole after passing a test with a measurement apparatus which ensures proper thread contact.  

They are designed for concrete. If your rock is similar to concrete, they could be fine for at least a few years. Lots of rock types are much harder and tougher than concrete, and the bolts may not work as intended. The end piece cones of 5-pieces are designed to crush a bit into concrete as they are tightened to max torque, but they don't do that in rock. That's why the old torque recommendations for 5-piece were lowered down (multiple times) - I have broken 1/2" plated 5-piece below the old guide torque (playing around on hard rocks in a wash near Bishop 20 years ago). The guide torque for a plated 1/2" 5-piece used to be 60 ft-lbs (wicked high).

Also the stainless bolts have non-stainless cutting surfaces on the threads, and the holding power may be compromised once those rust.

Wedge bolts are not held by the dimples, the dimples catch the rock and the sleeves expand on the cone. If the dimples don't catch, you can't tighten the bolt, it will just come out as you tighten (happens in soft rock).

A very simple argument against a new technology is "why take the risk of these bolts failing when long-proven bolts are easily available." The burden of proof is on those who would adopt a new technology which others will trust with their lives. Trying to paint those who ask for that proof as "fearful" is pretty lame. Especially with a technology which isn't even an expansion bolt.

My experience at work in concrete is that often threaded concrete screws strip out after several uses in the same hole.  YMMV.

Greg Barneswrote:

They are designed for concrete. If your rock is similar to concrete, they could be fine for at least a few years. Lots of rock types are much harder and tougher than concrete, and the bolts may not work as intended. The end piece cones of 5-pieces are designed to crush a bit into concrete as they are tightened to max torque, but they don't do that in rock. That's why the old torque recommendations for 5-piece were lowered down (multiple times) - I have broken 1/2" plated 5-piece below the old guide torque (playing around on hard rocks in a wash near Bishop 20 years ago). The guide torque for a plated 1/2" 5-piece used to be 60 ft-lbs (wicked high).

Also the stainless bolts have non-stainless cutting surfaces on the threads, and the holding power may be compromised once those rust.

Wedge bolts are not held by the dimples, the dimples catch the rock and the sleeves expand on the cone. If the dimples don't catch, you can't tighten the bolt, it will just come out as you tighten (happens in soft rock).

A very simple argument against a new technology is "why take the risk of these bolts failing when long-proven bolts are easily available." The burden of proof is on those who would adopt a new technology which others will trust with their lives. Trying to paint those who ask for that proof as "fearful" is pretty lame. Especially with a technology which isn't even an expansion bolt.

Greg just to Clarify, I dont like these bolts. I dont use them for permanent installation. I bought some to mess around with, never left any in the rock. And as I stated before they can be a pain in the ass. I wasnt trying to call anyone fearful. This is terminology used in the adoption of new technology. “Early adopters” are often dissuaded due to “fear uncertainty and doubt”. Which is totally understandable. I was just asking for clarification for suggestions made about the bolts, in comparison to others. In no way trying to bring anyone down. Thanks for your input as always.

One cool thing about the 3/8” size for temporary placement is removal and the ability to upsize for a permanent 1/2” bolt. Have you seen them used for this purpose?