Predictions: 15c in US?

Princess Puppy Lovrwrote:

I should have specified cutting edge conventual metrics, which only the action directe meets that threshold. I was more thinking this is the hardest route at this grade in the discipline. So for women it would be films like Margos. I feel like Nina, and Emily's films are cutting edge but in a different way. I am more thinking women climbing either v16 or 15a/b. Of the 3 women to have sent 15b the footage has been maybe a 6 minute film. Also if you just look down the wiki page en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_…(sport_climbing) a lot more feature films about men come to mind than women. 

That’s because hardly any women climb those grades…like you said, only 3 women have done so and of those women Margo has had plenty of publicity. The other, I believe, are not American so I’m not exactly sure how much media attention they have received. So with that said, it’s not a shock why there a lot more feature films about a men in a male dominated sport…

You’re too good of a troll to post a wiki link to alpine routes (when we are very obviously discussing sport routes), act like it.

What about that line to the left of Scarface, or the one or two bolt lines on Picnic Lunch Wall?

J T wrote:

Dude said D Woods is washed up...

Stig gleswrote:

What about that line to the left of Scarface, or the one or two bolt lines on Picnic Lunch Wall?

I've heard mention of that route left of Scarface. What's the story there? Has anyone tried it seriously?

Not Not MP Adminwrote:

That’s because hardly any women climb those grades…like you said, only 3 women have done so and of those women Margo has had plenty of publicity. The other, I believe, are not American so I’m not exactly sure how much media attention they have received. So with that said, it’s not a shock why there a lot more feature films about a men in a male dominated sport…

You’re too good of a troll to post a wiki link to alpine routes (when we are very obviously discussing sport routes), act like it.

Naw my link just failed, here is the correct one . But really cross reference the amount of film time you can get watching the hardest women ascents versus hardest male ascents. I think Megos alone has more film time than the combo of 8 hardest female sport climbs. 

In a couple years I could see Daniel Woods not besting his hardest red point, he isnt washed up now but he could be in a couple years. 

Princess Puppy Lovrwrote:

Naw my link just failed, here is the correct one . But really cross reference the amount of film time you can get watching the hardest women ascents versus hardest male ascents. I think Megos alone has more film time than the combo of 8 hardest female sport climbs. 

In a couple years I could see Daniel Woods not besting his hardest red point, he isnt washed up now but he could be in a couple years. 

You’ll have that when the sport is 80% male. Megos has probably accomplished more than those 8 hardest female climbers combined from a purely grade perspective. There’s no doubt males are in videos of climbing more than females, nobody is saying they aren’t…but facts are that men are the ones pushing the grades and developing so thats what you’re going to get. 

As far as DWoods goes; he literally just had the best seasons of bouldering of his life (arguably one of the best seasons of anyone in bouldering) and you really think he’ll be washed up in a few years?! I get he’s 32, which is ”old” for bouldering but he’s showed no signs of slowing down. While not necessarily a fair comparison, Sharma sent multiple routes above the grade of 5.15b after the age of 32 as well as a V15. So while I don’t think DWoods is the front runner to climb 15c by any means saying he’s washed up is hilarious. He is the strongest boulderer on the planet right now and barring any injury will continue to be one of the strongest for the foreseeable future.

Adam blocwrote:

Rumor has it some ladies also climb hard

5.15b: Julia Chanourdie, Angela Eiter, Laura Rogora

5.15a: Margo Hayes, Anak Verhoeven

32 woman have climbed at least 5.14c/d   On the Girls' Side (wifeo.com) 

Since Laura Rogora was mentioned, let it be known that she sent Stefano Ghisolfi's route Project Erebor (5.15b/c). So it's quite possible she could establish a 5.15c.

I love hard women climbers and could care less about which dude sent what but really the only thing that gets me somewhat interested is who takes the smallest amount of time to send which is usually not talked about that much. Grades are cool in that way, they are a gauge of the hardest to easiest but truthfully I'd rather know which lady knocked off the most 5.6 climbs last year over which dude spent a year working the same 100' climb. I'm probably just biased and only thinking about who I'd rather share a ledge with?

Alex Fischerwrote:

Since Laura Rogora was mentioned, let it be known that she sent Stefano Ghisolfi's route Project Erebor (5.15b/c). So it's quite possible she could establish a 5.15c.

The question was about the first 5.15c in the US. Has she even been to the US to climb? If she does come stateside I don’t envision her spending much of that time projecting one route. 

Go Back to Super Topowrote:

The question was about the first 5.15c in the US. Has she even been to the US to climb? If she does come stateside I don’t envision her spending much of that time projecting one route. 

Oh, for some reason I thought she was American.

Not Not MP Adminwrote:

You’ll have that when the sport is 80% male. Megos has probably accomplished more than those 8 hardest female climbers combined from a purely grade perspective. There’s no doubt males are in videos of climbing more than females, nobody is saying they aren’t…but facts are that men are the ones pushing the grades and developing so thats what you’re going to get. 

Yeah, the only point I was making is there is less pressure, support, infrastructure volume of women to climb the hardest route in America. Point being maybe 1-3 women could be shooting for 15c in america while there are probably 10-15 men.

As far as DWoods goes; he literally just had the best seasons of bouldering of his life (arguably one of the best seasons of anyone in bouldering) and you really think he’ll be washed up in a few years?! I get he’s 32, which is ”old” for bouldering but he’s showed no signs of slowing down. While not necessarily a fair comparison, Sharma sent multiple routes above the grade of 5.15b after the age of 32 as well as a V15. So while I don’t think DWoods is the front runner to climb 15c by any means saying he’s washed up is hilarious. He is the strongest boulderer on the planet right now and barring any injury will continue to be one of the strongest for the foreseeable future.

Well if you think Adam Ondra timeline (4 years I recall) or Megos (60 days of projecting), the amount of time D. Woods needs to invest would be quite a lot. He was pretty transparent with the v17 project so I would expect if he was trying to climb 15c in America then we would maybe know. I also feel that he would want to climb another 15a and 15b in America before throwing himself at 15c. In my mind if he made 15c his goal right now he could be 4 years out from it, which would put him at 36. In four years I am gonna put my money on the kid who either has climbed 15c or the one who is rampaging through v15/v16 boulder problems over the 36 year old guy.   

JCMwrote:

5.15a is becoming reasonably a reasonably established grade in the US, and 15b is starting to fill in also. When do you predict we'll see the next step, with a US 15c? Who will do it? And where will it be?

Siegrist, maybe Traversi, some hard to get to location in Utah or Nevada.

Alex Fischerwrote:

Oh, for some reason I thought she was American.

Italian, just another Euro!

Yeah but what about those Smith routes

Stig gleswrote:

Yeah but what about those Smith routes

What about them? Tell us more! The climbing nerds are interested. Has anyone projected them seriously? Drew during his Smith Rock phase?

Well  if you watch the video of Ondra onsighting Scarface, he lowers off and looks at the bolt line there and says it doesn’t look impossible. The one at Picnic Lunch Wall is really neat looking- apparently the upper bit is like a harder version of To Bolt. Both lines are like right there and I’m surprised they’re not getting tried.

BTW stick to the topic at hand everyone because you’re making this interesting thread nearly unreadable. 

Does Smith have any 5.15s?

Jordan Wilsonwrote:

Does Smith have any 5.15s?

Not currently. One 14d (a Drew Ruana linkup in the Aggro Gully), and several 14c's.

I can only imagine how hatefully fingery and skin intensive 5.15 would be there.