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Good first crash pad?

Original Post
Rachel L · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2021 · Points: 0

I'm a longtime gym climber who's dabbled in outdoor climbing with more experienced friends. I want to get a crash pad so I can start bouldering outdoors more. My buddy and I will be on beginner climbs -- I climb up to V4 in the gym and he climbs up to V3.

Any recommendations for a first crash pad? Either specific pads or what dimensions I should look for? I want something basic and relatively affordable, but with adequate coverage and that I won't immediately grow out of if possible.

(Cross-posted in Gear: let me know if this is not allowed)

tobias bundle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 123

Really any average sized folding crash pad would do. There’s variables in the way they carry and pack up, but they’re all basically the same. As long as the landing isn’t total garbage that will be all you’ll need. 

Old lady H · · Boise, ID · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 1,374

Get out with a few people who already boulder. Pads shrink outdoors, lol, so the more the merrier (one pad is better than zero, but will not be much help). That also lets you get to problems easily, without spending heaps of time trying to sort out what's what. 

Have fun! Bouldering can be a good way to get a lot in, with people you enjoy, and meet new people, too. 

EDIT to add, consider if you'll use it as a pad to sleep on, too. A lot of people use them in tents. I sized mine to fit in my Honda, it's the second largest one Asana makes.

There's also shipping to consider, if you don't have local sources, that's a PITA. 

H.

Nick Moraski · · Estes Park, CO · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 60

I would say go with one of the cheaper, entry level pads from Mad Rock or BD. Something like the Black Diamond Circuit or Impact or the Mad Rock Mad Pad. Well priced and work just fine. 

If you know you're going to be getting outside often and not just every now and then, I think it would be worth to go with an Asana or Organic pad. Those are the best you can buy imo plus they're durable so theyll last you. And they make it easy to strap another pad on if you end up buying more. Could be worth it to go with a bigger sized one too depending on what you're climbing if you're going solo. But if you're only going bouldering occassionally, Mad Rock or BD ones will be more than adequate. 

Brandon Daniel · · Logan, UT · Joined May 2019 · Points: 41

I picked up the Black Diamond Circuit last year and it works well (for reference, it's about 3x4ft/89x120cm when unfolded). Really anything should work fine.

Bouldering outside is also quite a different experience, not necessarily due to the holds, but because of everything else. Your one pad may seem awfully small once you're even just 10ft up and even smaller for anything 15-20ft. Plan to get comfortable with topping out. You also need a down climb plan by either finding an easy spot to hop off, a sturdy tree, or maybe even some webbing to wrap around something up top. Ground level may be uneven and there may be other boulders and trees, among other things, in the fall zone, so plan your pad orientation accordingly.

There are pads that can assist which specific situations better than others (tri-fold may better fit some terrain than a bi-fold and there is at least one that is much more adaptable; then there are the mini pads meant to cover small specific spots, gaps between pads, etc.).

If you're on a budget, the Black Diamond Circuit is good and the Metolius Session II offers a few extra features for a slight step up in price. Otherwise, just pick up whatever from BD to Petzl to Organic and a few other niche brands that are popular, but trend toward more expensive. Some offer ways to attach a second pad, have specific pockets for shoes, guide books, convert to chairs for when not climbing and more.

I'd advise just finding whatever pads you can locally, so you can avoid shipping fees, and just get whichever happens to be available.

B G · · New England · Joined May 2018 · Points: 41

The shipping on pads can be pretty pricey. My suggestion is to ask your gym, or other gyms in your are if there are more, if they are planning on ordering any pads or could include one as a special order in their next shipment. Might help save some money.

Albert B · · Mammoth Lakes · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 42

Organic 

John Reeve · · Durango, formely from TX · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 15

I'd go with whatever I can find used and local.  I wouldn't be picky on the brand, as long as it's not thrashed.

Rachel L · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2021 · Points: 0

Thanks all. Ended up getting a Metolius Session II. Still haven't debuted it.

Doug Simpson · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 136

Wren Cooperrider · · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 349
Doug Simpson wrote:

Haha BetaClimbers did a video about this actually

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GaSMlvwppYc

The Weavers · · High Falls NY · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 10

Mad Rock Triple Pad

Isaac Mauro · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 0

I definitely recommend one that has an easy way to strap on a second pad. You can always mcgayver something up with bungee cord, but I love the convenience of the straps on my organic pad, they get used every time I go bouldering and it's super quick to pack up everything and move to a new location.

Not sure what cheaper pads have good straps, but something to think about. 

mountain troll · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2021 · Points: 0

pillow from a used couch

Matthew Jaggers · · Red River Gorge · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 695

The Metolius Magnum is a high quality pad that covers some ground. I wouldn't want to climb with a single pad if it was any smaller than the Magnum. I highly recommend getting a blubber pad from Asana or Organic too. Theres a lot of creative ways to use them, and if you have enough pads, it is a great way to cover the seams.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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