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Best books/practices for better lead head
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Lead more and more and more. Get comfortable on the sharp end on routes that you are comfortable on then slowly push the envelope. Read 'Dune' - fear is the mind killer... |
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I recently read this. Kind of a modernized version of Rock Warriors Way. Great book.  |
Nathan Williamswrote: +1 for this |
Jan Mcwrote: What he said. |
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Follow/clean on incrementally harder routes that you wouldn’t lead right now. The mileage will help and you’ll develop confidence on harder/more committing moves The Rock Warriors Way helped me a lot. “Find small ways to engage” |
Al Pinewrote: This is good advice if you can't climb things that are safe to fall on but eventually you need to lead to get over your fear of leading. And always following will just reinforce fear. |
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Vertical Mind helped point out some of the bad habits I have gotten into when I start to get the fear. I found that ultimately while VM helped me focus on my technique and being mindful of what my tendencies are when I'm shitting bricks, climbing bolted routes and victory whipping from the top without clipping the anchors both in and out of the gym has helped me even more. Falling is scary. No doubt about it, I don't care what your level of comfort is. Getting more accustomed to the feeling of launching into the void helped me. |
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The absolute best way to get a better lead head is only climb with solid, experienced belayers who know how to give a perfect catch every time. Until you experience/demand a belayer who's top notch, you should be scared to fall. |
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Find some bad mofo climbers and be there climbing partner. They'll rub off on you over time and BOOM you'll have a better lead head |
