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How does this tether look to you?

Original Post
Andrew Hess · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 0

Setup: girth hitch to harness, clove to autolocker and rap setup, clove to autolocker for the anchor. 

I like that the Beal loop is dynamic, so I don't have to fret over slack. The cloves allow me a bit of adjustability, and I haven't seen them slip at all when using (even if they did, the whole thing is on a loop). It also makes it easy for me to test the rap setup while loosely clipped in to the anchor. 

What do you think? Any concerns?

Thanks

J C · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 477

Needs three or four more lockers

johndrico · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 0

I'm not a fan of the extra loop of cord between the device and the tether biner... A cleaner setup is less faff, easier to system check, less chance of getting hung up/snagged on gear, rock, your partner etc.

There are already plenty of good ways to extend a rappel device. Looks like you're trying to re-invent the wheel, IMO

Noel Z · · UK · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 15

No concerns, but racking it in that setup sounds like a dangly affair.
Suggestion: try tying the dynaloop into bunny ears of unequal sizes. The large ear is your tether, the very small ear for extending you rappel device and the third, bottom loop, to girth hitch to your hard points. Keep the stitch close to the top of the large ear to avoid clutter around your hardpoints. Clove you tether carabiner so it doesn't drop the loop unnoticed while unclipping from hardness before clipping the anchor. Cinch and dress the knots well.

shredward · · SLC · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 5

Seems like it would work just fine, although a little bulky for my preferences.  Would you climb with that all installed on your harness?

Glowering · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 16

I like seeing people trying new ideas and asking for feedback. So thanks for posting this.

Tie it as Noel Z mentions. 

I don't see much benefit of a dynamic tether for rapping. Even with some slack it's a small fall factor in this situation. I'm not going to climb above the anchor or catch a falling climber when rapping so I'm fine with using sling for this with it's lower bulk and multiple other uses.

However if I was climbing while leading in blocks, or doing all the leading, I could see using this as my tether (and for my followers tether too) so you could have a dynamic tether, but it doesn't complicate moving the rope over at the belay switchover, or putting the tether on or off while also being the climbing rope. It that case the extra bulk would probably be worth it.

johndrico · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 0
Gloweringwrote:

However if I was climbing while leading in blocks, or doing all the leading, I could see using this as my tether (and for my followers tether too) so you could have a dynamic tether, but it doesn't complicate moving the rope over at the belay switchover, or putting the tether on or off while also being the climbing rope. It that case the extra bulk would probably be worth it.

What difference does a separate tether make when block leading?

The only difference between block leading and swinging leads is that in the former you need to flip the rope to put the leader's end back on top of the pile. In both cases, a separate tether is unnecessary faff. Just clove hitch the rope above your tie-in!

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,043
Andrew Hesswrote:

I like that the Beal loop is dynamic, so I don't have to fret over slack. 

The elasticity of a piece of dynamic rope of such a short length is not going to absorb that much force. The tether won't break but your hips might wish you'd fretted a bit more about the slack if you (somehow) fall from above the anchor. 

Alexander Blum · · Livermore, CA · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 143
Andrew Hesswrote:

I like that the Beal loop is dynamic, so I don't have to fret over slack. 

What the hell are folks doing at anchors where this is a common issue? Is it normal to be at an anchor and go "well, I guess I need to climb above this anchor to the limit of my tether, in a precarious position!".

Fail Falling · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,043
Alexander Blumwrote:

What the hell are folks doing at anchors where this is a common issue? Is it normal to be at an anchor and go "well, I guess I need to climb above this anchor to the limit of my tether, in a precarious position!".

  • Pulling rope and noticing you didn't take out the knot until after it passes you so you climb above the anchor to reach the end of the rope. 
  • Belay station full of people so the person rappelling might stop above the anchor and have someone clip them into the anchor by their tether while they get off the rope and wait for the anchor to clear out (I've had this requested of me and had to respectfully decline to assist) 
  • Climber might aid a piece or two on a pitch, tether into the piece as they pass it and forget to unclip until it comes tight. 
Dave Olsen · · Channeled Scablands · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 10

"What the hell are folks doing at anchors where this is a common issue? Is it normal to be at an anchor and go "well, I guess I need to climb above this anchor to the limit of my tether, in a precarious position!".

Setting up a hard to reach sport anchor from above to top rope.

Lots of stuff out there about being sure to tie into the anchor with rope and not just a static PAS when belaying. A short bit of dynamic rope or one of the dynamic cords doubled would seem to be good for a tether for the odd situation when a higher fall factor might present itself. 

Glowering · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 16
johndricowrote:

What difference does a separate tether make when block leading?

The only difference between block leading and swinging leads is that in the former you need to flip the rope to put the leader's end back on top of the pile. In both cases, a separate tether is unnecessary faff. Just clove hitch the rope above your tie-in!

I'm not talking about a pile of rope on a ledge. I'm talking about a rope butterfly coiled over the tether for a hanging/stance belay. The tether would be a different color than the climbing rope, and you could start coiling it starting directly from your harness tie in, vs. from the other side of your clove hitch at the anchor, so it would make it easier to keep track of the butterfly coil, keep it neat, and see exactly what you need to lift over and put on the followers tether. Probably not worth it to have to carry the extra piece of gear, but I've done a butterfly coil over a sling tether and it's a little easier to manage compared to a rope with clove hitch. Although I use the rope and a clove hitch 98% of the time.

aikibujin · · Castle Rock, CO · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 300

Since everyone seems to be taking high FF falls connected directly to the anchor all the time, I decided to use this as my personal tether from now on. 5/5, willing to whip at any time.

mountain troll · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2021 · Points: 0

looks more complicated than a single strand.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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