Small gear recommendations/questions
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So I'm just starting to get into aid climbing (clean) and need to add some smaller gear to my rack. I'll probably triple up on cams eventually but right now just looking at smaller gear to get on some real thin cracks to practice on, specifically Captain Fingers and others at Sugarloaf. On my long road to El Cap haha. Right now I've got double black totems (also double blue, 1 yellow and 1 purple), a full set of ball nuts, and dmm brass offsets. The rest of my rack are doubles in BD camalots and DMM alloy offsets. I'm thinking of getting one each of .1/.2 and .2/.3 offset Z4 cams and a set of dmm peenuts. Also considering the regular Z4 0-.2, but it might not be necessary with the ball nuts? Does the rest look good or should I get doubles of the offsets? And what about more brass offsets instead of the peenuts? Any other comments are welcome as well. Also just slightly off topic, but should I consider getting more totems for larger offset placements? Thanks!! |
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That's a pretty respectable start! If I were you, the next 2 things I would buy would be a couple beaks, like the BD Pecker sizes #2 and #3. Edit: +1 for what Ben says below too, cam hooks for the win |
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Cam hooks! One for each ladder. Way faster than futzing around with nuts/cams in thin cracks ;) Narrow is the standard size. I also have offset metolius and offset x4s in the smallest few sizes. Usually for thin stuff I always find myself wanting more 0.1/0.2 and 0.2/0.3 offsets cams. I don't have totems though, so maybe those cover that range well enough. |
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I actually just picked up all three sizes of double cam hooks so good there, looking forward to practicing using those for sure. Got rivet hangers as well. And some beaks/tomahawks are definitely on the list just a little tougher to find but I've got one so far. Also I just realized I only have #3-6 of the DMM HB brass offsets, anyone ever use the smaller sizes? On Chris McNamara's gear list he recommends having down to #2 so I'm wondering how much use I'd get out of the #0 and #1. And I think the black totem is just a bit bigger or around the same size as the .3 so I'll definitely be getting those two small sizes in offsets. |
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You might read through this discussion post. mountainproject.com/forum/t… |
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Don't bother with the Z4 offsets, they kink horribly and underperform compared to other cams when used for aid placements. The X4s are marginally better. Totem basic offsets (now Kailas) and alien revos work better for aid. The holy grail for ultra thin cam will be the 000 - 0 C3s |
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I would recommend setting up a carabiner for each Etrier With a talon A Leeper Pointed and some large hook Also some cam hooks. You might also consider getting some Peckers or tomahawks and a set of small brass nuts and offsets. |




