Ropesoloing and traverses

Hi,

Any hints for the ropesoloing with Grigri on long cragging traverses? 

Yes. YGD!

Redirect 

Do you mean lead solo or top rope solo?

For lead solo you basically climb the traverse three times, and protect for pendulum falls. Sometimes I follow the pitch on my lead device rather than my top rope devices if there is any chance of a good swing, to avoid damaging my rope with toothed devices. 

What's the route?

Slippery knots on the rope bag to prevent it all from slipping out. 

What's a cragging traverse?  Like a traversing route on a single pitch crag?

If so, lead rope solo, fix the line to the top anchor, then rap to the ground on the remaining free rope.

Second the pitch on toprope solo to clean the gear.  If you failed to protect the follower on crux-ey traversing sections, you'll only have yourself to blame, haha.

J Cwrote:

Do you mean lead solo or top rope solo?

For lead solo you basically climb the traverse three times, and protect for pendulum falls. Sometimes I follow the pitch on my lead device rather than my top rope devices if there is any chance of a good swing, to avoid damaging my rope with toothed devices. 

Sorry for the missing information.

Yes, I mean the lead rope soloing with grigri.

I have been lead rope soloing before a single pitch easy vertical lines, but practicing also a multi pitch procedures on bolt and trad anchors. I'm not new with multipitch climbing in general. I have been mp-climbing with partner in France, Greek, Norway, Sweden and US. The last one was the South Face route in Washington Column -95(pic).

So, this 'cragging' mp-project is a 100+meter long traverse. Just for fun and sense of 'adventure'. The line is in established 20 meter tall crag and the line traversing 10-15meters above the flat ground. It's pretty well mixed protected, because of the existing sport & trad routes. It's mostly slab climbing with few vertical sections and partly ledge scrambling. My estimation for the well protected short thin vert crux is F6b.

Because I have not done a lead rope solo traversing so far at all, I curious if there's any hints in this.

Thanks

Ps. Sorry for my English skills. Tad rusty these days ;)

Fail Fallingwrote:

Slippery knots on the rope bag to prevent it all from slipping out. 

Or rope in a backpack, depending on the situation. Now that we know more about what the OP wants to climb, I'd say definitely carry the rope.

If the pitch lengths and height from ground allow for it, I would do as Sam said and not rap the traverse, but simply rap to the ground, and walk back to the start of the pitch. Be sure to leave a rope foxed to the ground once you're past the first pitch.

J Cwrote:

Or rope in a backpack, depending on the situation. Now that we know more about what the OP wants to climb, I'd say definitely carry the rope.

If the pitch lengths and height from ground allow for it, I would do as Sam said and not rap the traverse, but simply rap to the ground, and walk back to the start of the pitch. Be sure to leave a rope foxed to the ground once you're past the first pitch.

Jep, the plan is to rap to the ground after each pitch and so on. No sense to jumaring back via too tight haulrope due height issue. Too much mess with that. The target is to free lead all the pitches and thats it.

As always, I will use the microtraxion as a rope guide to the grigri. Climbing with lead rope on the backpack? Well, maybe on the easy parts, but on the crux I rather let it hang.

Traverses are the worst.

John Bigroomwrote:

As always, I will use the microtraxion as a rope guide to the grigri. Climbing with lead rope on the backpack? Well, maybe on the easy parts, but on the crux I rather let it hang.

I started out using this setup exclusively, then exclusively backpacked the rope, and now I've realized that both systems have their advantages and it's best to be able to switch between them. Probably 90% of the time I backpack the rope. You end up with rope weight on your body somehow, either on your harness or in your pack. If the crux is short and you can belay right after it, there's no need to carry the whole rope.