IMO there are two ends of the spectrum. On one hand you've got the naked onsight solo yadayada folks that are obviously pure
On the other hand you've got the folks (mostly in the 19th century and earlier) who just did whatever they could do to get to the top, ethics be damned. Edward Whymper is a perfect example: got to a tough section on the Matterhorn and went all the way back to town to get a ladder. Those who did that kind of stuff with the sole intention of surveying in order to provide society with more accurate and detailed maps are top-tier.
Jim Reynolds’ up and down free solo of Fitz Roy must deserve consideration. Unless his subsequent appearance on the Enormocast (sorry Hobo) is disqualifying.
Hat tip to Jim.
I don't think off-rock actions disqualify the purity of one's climbing.
I know a person who just simply climbs all the time. Works to support the lifestyle without handouts. His photo was in “Climbing Rag” doing some 5.13 way back when that was news. Wrote a letter letting the editors know he wasn’t down with that and if it happened again he’d sue them. Still cranks hard, rocks, walls, ice, both big and small mountains. Never seeks the public fame. I’m happy he stops by a few times per year- we go have fun doing the low level climbing I now do.
Now that is pure- pure fun!
Some really great responses on this one.
This. Every region has silent crushers that are definitely not often heard of. Chill folks usually, definitely in it for the fun and not the recognition.
This. Every region has silent crushers that are definitely not often heard of. Chill folks usually, definitely in it for the fun and not the recognition.
Hell yeah. A few weeks ago my IG newsfeed has multiple different folks giving Welsh climber James McHaffie a shoutout for completing the entire "Extreme Rock" ticklist in Great Britain. It's a big fricking deal, multiple 5.13 and 5.14 r/x trad routes. I noticed that James himself hadn't mentioned it, and when I checked out his instagram posts, on the day he completed it he just posted some bad buttshot of a friend he was climbing with, with some vague caption about having a good day out on the rock. That's pretty solid style.