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Who is/was the purest climber?

Original Post
Tradiban · · 951-527-7959 · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 212

I remember reading an article about John Sherman, in which it was described that if his shoelace so much as graced the ground he would not consider a problem done, or Goron Kropp when something fell off his bike trailer on his unsupported summit tour, and the film crew picked it up to give back to him he declined and instructed them to put it back where they found it so he could go back and pick it up. 

You get the gist, who is, or was, the purest climber?

Ricky Harline · · Angel's Camp, CA · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 147

You need another hobby. 

Redyns · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 60

infants.  

Kristian Solem · · Monrovia, CA · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 1,070

"...on his unsupported summit tour, and the film crew picked it up ..."

Rocrates · · The Forum · Joined Apr 2020 · Points: 15

Either Bear Grylls or Hazel Findlay.

M M · · Maine · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 2

Probably me.

Francois Dumas · · Chicoutimi · Joined Nov 2020 · Points: 0

My 3yo in his rubber boots when he crushes a 20' 5.2a, no chalk, no bullshit. he even collects oatmeal cookies left behind at the top by some renegade trad dad. Talk about clean climbing ethic. 

shredward · · SLC · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 5

It me

Jesse Brantley · · Denver, CO · Joined Nov 2019 · Points: 0

My dog.

Tradiban · · 951-527-7959 · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 212
This post violated Guideline #1 and has been removed.
Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10

I'll play. Back in the 70's Boulder scene the late Steve Wunsch and, in particular, Jim Erickson had strict 'purity rules' ('tainting'). There is an informative interview with them in the book Climb, at least in the first edition.

Pino Pepino · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 0

A dab with a shoelace is still a dab.

Steph Evans · · Belgrade, MT · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 0

Our 10mo old who isnt walking yet but free solos slabs barefoot, naked in a bucket hat and barefoot boulders, yelling in protest when pulled off the problem prematurely. Only to begin again and summit said boulder. 

Kristian Solem · · Monrovia, CA · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 1,070
Tradiban wrote:

It's ok Ricky, I know you're not an asshole in real life.

Do you have any "purity" rules in your climbing?

@Kristian

Is an endeavor inherently supported by the mere presence of a film crew?

It's one thing to insist on going back for something that fell off your rig, quite another to refuse help if you wipe out and break tib/fib. 

Pat Light · · Charlottesville, VA · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 0

gecko

  • environmentally friendly insect diet
  • no shoes, chalk, harness, rope
  • never climbs the same rig twice
  • almost always a first ascent
  • super off the radar. too small even to register on radar. can't operate social media
  • talented enough to climb anywhere but chooses to reduce carbon setae-print by only climbing within walking distance of home
  • v. cute
Crag MonsterDouche · · Big Saint James Island · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 0

My Hairline 

x15x15 · · Use Ignore Button · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 275
Kristian Solem wrote:

It's one thing to insist on going back for something that fell off your rig, quite another to refuse help if you wipe out and break tib/fib. 

Just knowing that support is nearby to render support if necessary is, in and of itself, support...

duncan... · · London, UK · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 55
Mountain Dillo · · Longview, TX · Joined Sep 2020 · Points: 0
Pat Light wrote:

gecko

  • environmentally friendly insect diet
  • no shoes, chalk, harness, rope
  • never climbs the same rig twice
  • almost always a first ascent
  • super off the radar. too small even to register on radar. can't operate social media
  • talented enough to climb anywhere but chooses to reduce carbon setae-print by only climbing within walking distance of home
  • v. cute

Geckos are exotic species that rely on humans leaving lights on all night in order to attract bugs to eat. Very poor style.

Ricky Harline · · Angel's Camp, CA · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 147
Tradiban wrote:

It's ok Ricky, I know you're not an asshole in real life.

Do you have any "purity" rules in your climbing?

@Kristian

Is an endeavor inherently supported by the mere presence of a film crew?

I endeavor to not be an asshole, and I am skeptical that I was one here. You weren't being sincere with this thread and I'm not going to pretend that you were. I'm aware that many here find these dumb threads amusing but I find them juvenile and tiresome. 

It feels like living next to a frat house. 

Since there is a chance you are in part at least sincere in your question: 

I think of climbing as both a sport and non sport activity. Most of the time I am enjoying it as not a sport, and just appreciate the challenge and movement. Sometimes I take it as a serious sport, and strictly follow the rules of the send. Other times I make even stricter rules for myself-- for example I have led many routes at Castle Rock with a crash pad that I would otherwise stick clip, since stick clipping the first bolt of Puckered Starfish for example means you're on top rope for half the route. 

Ultimately the only thing that matters is that you're honest about what you did and how you did it. Sometimes I care about th style of the ascent, but often I don't. I think aid climbing a wall is in an important sense a more pure style since it represents venturing off into the unknown and having an adventure that it so often removed from modern climbing, so in which sense the climbing is "more pure" is totally subjective and there many different axes an ascent could be measured on. 

Ultimately I think this conversation is only slightly less dumb than that tier list of the different types of climbing a kid made recently. People should climb in whatever way is the most fun to them, and if they're worried about whether or not others think it's pure or not then it sounds like they have some insecurity problems and should see a therapist. 

Trevor Taylor · · Seattle, WA · Joined Nov 2020 · Points: 0
Ricky Harline wrote: It feels like living next to a frat house.

A frat house you can silence whenever you want…

Also to tradis question, me since I am counter cultural at least relative to mountain project 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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