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In love with Otakis, looking for a softer bouldering shoe

Original Post
Martino Finotelli · · Region Brüssel-Hauptstadt · Joined Jun 2021 · Points: 0

Hi all,

I am new to the forum so my apologies in case I am doing something wrong!

I climb mostly outdoor, lead, and I am very happy with my Otaki (42,5 EU) and Finale (42 EU).

Now I am looking for a softer shoe, mostly for indoor bouldering, which is very good in smearing over volumes and in overhang routes.

I also want to mention that I like Otaki so much because of their quite wide toe box. Some other shoes, with narrower toe box, simply do not work for me.

I tried also Scarpa Instict (too hard) and Tenaya Oasi (too narrow toe box).

Any suggestions? Thank you!

Jason Zevenbergen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2020 · Points: 0

Skwama.

Peter T · · Boston · Joined May 2016 · Points: 26

Agreed - skwama

James M · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 75

I have Otakis and the new 5.10 Hiangles (white). I was almost concerned I got the Hiangles too small but after just one session they conformed to my foot and I can't believe how comfortable they are (and they are tight, but comfy)

They stick like they are magnetic and became my go-to try hard shoe.

42.5 otaki (mens 9.5)

43 1/3  hiangle (10.5)

street shoe 11 us mens (if that helps at all)

R 3 · · San Diego · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0
James M wrote:

I have Otakis and the new 5.10 Hiangles (white). I was almost concerned I got the Hiangles too small but after just one session they conformed to my foot and I can't believe how comfortable they are (and they are tight, but comfy)

They stick like they are magnetic and became my go-to try hard shoe.

42.5 otaki (mens 9.5)

43 1/3  hiangle (10.5)

street shoe 11 us mens (if that helps at all)

Hiangles are my go to as well, but I wouldn't call them soft. The 5.10 Teams might be more the style the poster is looking for. 

Kane Schutzman · · Virginia · Joined May 2010 · Points: 0

Great shoes!  Have enjoyed mine for the past two years climbing everything from slab granite, cracks, and hard sport - finally got thin on the rubber but lasted longer than any other shoe.  I wear a 44.5 street and use a 42 in the Otaki.

Marc Squiddo · · Mountain View, CA · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 15

I’ve asked the same question and answered much like others…Skwama 

Greg Steele · · SLC, UT · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 60

I find the kubo and the otaki are shoes of same shape and fit. The kubo being a softer version that with less structure also breaks in more... HT (a year later)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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