In love with Otakis, looking for a softer bouldering shoe

Hi all,

I am new to the forum so my apologies in case I am doing something wrong!

I climb mostly outdoor, lead, and I am very happy with my Otaki (42,5 EU) and Finale (42 EU).

Now I am looking for a softer shoe, mostly for indoor bouldering, which is very good in smearing over volumes and in overhang routes.

I also want to mention that I like Otaki so much because of their quite wide toe box. Some other shoes, with narrower toe box, simply do not work for me.

I tried also Scarpa Instict (too hard) and Tenaya Oasi (too narrow toe box).

Any suggestions? Thank you!

Skwama.

Agreed - skwama

I have Otakis and the new 5.10 Hiangles (white). I was almost concerned I got the Hiangles too small but after just one session they conformed to my foot and I can't believe how comfortable they are (and they are tight, but comfy)

They stick like they are magnetic and became my go-to try hard shoe.

42.5 otaki (mens 9.5)

43 1/3  hiangle (10.5)

street shoe 11 us mens (if that helps at all)

James M wrote:

I have Otakis and the new 5.10 Hiangles (white). I was almost concerned I got the Hiangles too small but after just one session they conformed to my foot and I can't believe how comfortable they are (and they are tight, but comfy)

They stick like they are magnetic and became my go-to try hard shoe.

42.5 otaki (mens 9.5)

43 1/3  hiangle (10.5)

street shoe 11 us mens (if that helps at all)

Hiangles are my go to as well, but I wouldn't call them soft. The 5.10 Teams might be more the style the poster is looking for. 

Love my Otakis (rock daggers) which I wear a tight 43, for 1-2 pitch sport and crack. 

Just ordered the Skwamas for bouldering and gym- they're on sale right now for about $128 online. I ordered a half size smaller than my Otakis based on feedback from threads regarding Skwamas. Sounds like some people are ordering them a full size smaller- not trying to hijack the thread but seems like pertinent info. 

Great shoes!  Have enjoyed mine for the past two years climbing everything from slab granite, cracks, and hard sport - finally got thin on the rubber but lasted longer than any other shoe.  I wear a 44.5 street and use a 42 in the Otaki.

Follow up on the Skwamas: Although they look pretty aggressive out of the box, they are super sensitive and work great for slab. They're not comfortable for cracks but that's what Katanas are for.  I'm wearing them a half size smaller than my Otakis and a full size smaller than lace Katanas.

I’ve asked the same question and answered much like others…Skwama 

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