New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #16

I think I just said something about this.... 

Carl Schneider wrote:

Well I went off to the gym tonight with the intent of getting my little grade 24 project. Didn't happen. Fell off on the first attempt at the crux. Then gave it another go and got to the third last hold again. Held that for longer than I did last time, fell off, punched the wall like a fool and hurt my hand. 

My elbow bursitis is looking stupidly bad too. So no climbing at all for me for a while. Now I'm all fucking depressed. 

Carl, gotta hand it to you.  You're working hard and that's inspiring.  You'll get this.  

Lori Milas wrote:

Carl, gotta hand it to you.  You're working hard and that's inspiring.  You'll get this.  

For better or worse, gym problems don't stick around for you the way rock does.   

wendy weiss wrote:

For better or worse, gym problems don't stick around for you the way rock does.   

You are so right, Wendy!  I really wished that my gym, Pipeworks, would have a 'best of' night every so often.  There were a few memorable routes that were so outstanding and so fun... seems like they could just throw those back up for a long night of climbing.  Apparently, that can't happen.    

But there is a route here that will be, for me, the equivalent of Carl's 24.  And I'll be back on it again today, slugging away.  Victory on routes like these comes in inches.  Or maybe  even just climbing a hard crux more easily, even if you don't get any further.  My focus today is what to do about my hands and fingers which just give way under jagged rock edges.  I'll tape everything I can, but I hope I can toughen up enough so that pain isn't the big reason for failure.  Bob suggests a 'pet rock' with sharp edges to take home and work with.  

I recall when learning to play the guitar that we just kept on playing, through blisters and bleeding on fingertips, until we had hard callouses.  I wish I had those callouses today on my fingers where I need them.  

If you want good callouses, start bouldering some.  You never need to get high off the ground, go sideways if you need to.  Nothing builds callouses like a couple hours of bouldering.

Jan Mc wrote:

If you want good callouses, start bouldering some.  You never need to get high off the ground, go sideways if you need to.  Nothing builds callouses like a couple hours of bouldering.

Thank you Jan.  That’s a great idea.  I’ll just have to look for the right boulder—in the V-minus 2 range.  I thought Gunsmoke might be a good beginner place but even that was too hard.  There has to be a bunny slope somewhere in this park.  (Just went back to check that grade.  I thought it was V0. It’s actually V3 so I feel way better now. )

When we were first starting to climb we would walk out to Echo and just traverse the base of the wall.  You can do most of the main wall this way (from Stick to What left) and if you don't skip the hard parts you can get a great workout.  Just remember to go both ways so that you even your body use out.

Lori Milas wrote:

Thank you Jan.  That’s a great idea.  I’ll just have to look for the right boulder—in the V-minus 2 range.  I thought Gunsmoke might be a good beginner place but even that was too hard.  There has to be a bunny slope somewhere in this park.  (Just went back to check that grade.  I thought it was V0. It’s actually V3 so I feel way better now. )

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105722803/gripper-traverse

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/116558576/mels-traverse

wendy weiss wrote:

For better or worse, gym problems don't stick around for you the way rock does.   

Yeah, I was almost hoping it wasn't there tonight so I didn't have to deal with it

Carl Schneider wrote:

Yeah, I was almost hoping it wasn't there tonight so I didn't have to deal with it

I know that feeling.

wendy weiss wrote:

For better or worse, gym problems don't stick around for you the way rock does.   

Well....mostly.

Idaho lost a bolt ladder ascent, put up by Beckey, I think, in 2020. The entire spire atop a peak tumbled off. Super dramatic footage!

Close to home? 

An entire face fell off, about where I first rappelled as a brand new climber, maybe a year or two after. No cause and effect implied. I was about the same weight then. We did step across a gap big enough to fall through, to get on the edge. 

All these things with rubble, talus and jumbled boulders to scramble, at the base? All that crap got there somehow. Geology is a slooow process.

Except when it isnt.

I kinda like that! 

;-)

Todd.... did you post on Reddit? 

Todd, wow!

Frumy and I had a great day out today at Rimview Crags near Sherwin Summit. It was much hotter than we expected, but we persevered.

Nice views of the White’s from there:

Phylp, looks like you've recovered from your off day and back to great climbing!  

Jan, Sam, thanks so much for the bouldering tips.  Last summer I made the traverse on Echo my personal mission.  These other areas look great.  They're something I can go to any time for a workout.  

--------

So, I'm lost in my own little world here in Josh right now.  It's still a wonderland to me.  Looks like we've picked Dog Day Afternoon (10b) as the end of season project. I have fallen in love with this rock, the line, the various challenges.  And I'm really not up to it.  I don't know if I ever will be, but if trying counts for anything... I should get points for that.    

I was going to put together a little video of all the falls and bloopers from yesterday's outing just for Carl so he would never feel bad again.      I don't know how Bob can stand watching repeated failures on a pretty basic move, I couldn't!  Of the various challenges, It's the first moves off the ledge that have got me.  I'm doing something wrong, I just don't know what.  

I taped up all my fingers, put some tincture of benzoin to hold the tape in place... it helped a lot.  

But may I say that the whole line... the whole rock, is just beautiful and inspiring, and once past the crux every inch is incredible. Another route I can enjoy WHILE on it (maybe this is a new thing?).   I would make a joke about Dave Houser here, but seriously, I hope he would be proud.  I wish I could fish him out of retirement, just to let him know that something he did years ago still exists, people love this route, and someone like me is at least trying.  I have SUCH awe of all of you, Phylp, Brandt, Guy, Russ, Jan, Kristian, Todd, Nick... all of you who have been at this for so long, and climb so well.  

I wish I could have met Charles Cole.  Maybe this doesn't mean much to other climbers... but when I'm working my way up a route like DDA I have the feeling of ghosts... I can almost hear the laughter, the discussions, the working of the FAs.  I'm wondering how in hell they did this?   And after all this, it's a 10b... dare I say, "Only a 10b"?  It leaves me to wonder what you all must have experienced at the higher grades, even more beautiful rocks.  

We'll be back on it on Friday.  I'm going to see if I can get Tony to come at sunset and watch.   

Phylp- Rimview with Frummy! How did you get that old coot off of the couch? And your giving away all the secret spots too!  Phylp why don’t you give Pratts Crack a serious try and report back? Photos of blood n gore are required! BITD before JB moved to Mammoth- the word was - no climbing around Mammoth except for Pratt’s Crack. I actually stood under that thing armed with 2- #10 hexes, a few tube chalks, 2 bongs and some other small gear- what was I thinking?
Ran away with tail firmly planted between legs.

Feeling sort of wound up today- maybe because I’m at DMV 1 hour before they open- 7am may as well be dawn foretired person.

Going fishing with JMac - hopefully we can get some worthwhile Trout, something worthy to show Bob. Last summer I did get a Bull Trout to come up for my fly - I missed it cause my boat mates got all excited and yelled at me! I like to slow count to 6 when I’m on big fish, before I set the hook, they messed up my timing.  

Carl- keep it up. Go and work climbs way above your norm- dare I say 28!- get spanked. When you try your usual grade it might seem EZ. 

And one last thing though for Lori- there is no season to this climbing thing. - The Road runs on forever, the party never ends. Only the scenery changes.

Have fun all. 

Guy Keesee wrote:

Phylp- Rimview with Frummy! How did you get that old coot off of the couch? And your giving away all the secret spots too!  Phylp why don’t you give Pratts Crack a serious try and report back? Photos of blood n gore are required! BITD before JB moved to Mammoth- the word was - no climbing around Mammoth except for Pratt’s Crack. I actually stood under that thing armed with 2- #10 hexes, a few tube chalks, 2 bongs and some other small gear- what was I thinking?
Ran away with tail firmly planted between legs.

Feeling sort of wound up today- maybe because I’m at DMV 1 hour before they open- 7am may as well be dawn foretired person.

Going fishing with JMac - hopefully we can get some worthwhile Trout, something worthy to show Bob. Last summer I did get a Bull Trout to come up for my fly - I missed it cause my boat mates got all excited and yelled at me! I like to slow count to 6 when I’m on big fish, before I set the hook, they messed up my timing.  

Carl- keep it up. Go and work climbs way above your norm- dare I say 28!- get spanked. When you try your usual grade it might seem EZ. 

And one last thing though for Lori- there is no season to this climbing thing. - The Road runs on forever, the party never ends. Only the scenery changes.

Have fun all.

One advantage to living in Delaware - I was in an out of the DMV in 20 minutes on Monday for inspection and renewal, never got out of the car.

I'll sleep all day with feet in creek for my recovery day. Maybe tonight I'll be up to watching the last of the May Sumo Basho! 

But I'll probably be bedridden for a few days. 

Climb-on

Guy, as we were driving in that maze of dirt roads to Rimview, Mark was invoking your masterful sense of direction and navigation, and told me a funny story of you, him and another guy in the car on your way somewhere, and you waking up out of a sound sleep and saying “ we’re on the wrong road”. And you were right!

Mark Frumkin wrote:

I'll sleep all day with feet in creek for my recovery day. Maybe tonight I'll be up to watching the last of the May Sumo Basho! 

But I'll probably be bedridden for a few days. 

Climb-on

My Whoop tells me I may be dying soon.  Not that I needed it to tell me that--I figured this out on my own.  I feel AWFUL this morning.  

I will be looking for the equivalent of a creek for my 2-day recovery.  Misery loves company!  but what is a Sumo Basho?  

Lori - A Sumo Basho is a Sumo Tournament, held every other month (odd numbered months) in Japan. I am a big fan and watch it on the NHK World channel. It lasts for 15 days with the Emperor's Cup going to the champ. We are currently at day 11. Terunofuji is in the lead with an undefeated 11-0 record, with two others in second place at 9-2. Starting to get very exciting as we near the end of the tourney.