New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #16

Old lady Hwrote:

Anyone have any input on Bluetooth headsets, for a phone, and climbing? I'll be getting something soon, to use for earth to Helen communication while climbing.

Helen, I have no experience with these myself, but yesterday a friend showed me some Bluetooth Skullcandy earbuds she bought for $30 and likes a lot. I didn’t know they were available at that price point.

https://www.google.com/search?q=skullcandy+bluetooth+earbuds

Terry Ewrote:

Helen, I have no experience with these myself, but yesterday a friend showed me some Bluetooth Skullcandy earbuds she bought for $30 and likes a lot. I didn’t know they were available at that price point.

https://www.google.com/search?q=skullcandy+bluetooth+earbuds

I think these are only to listen to music, not have a phone conversation, but thanks! I'm more interested in having stuff that gets the job done, than saving money if something doesn't work. I'm at a point where I am shrinking the stuff down, in general, and if I don't enjoy whatever it is, it's history. 

H.

Old lady Hwrote:

I think these are only to listen to music, not have a phone conversation, but thanks! I'm more interested in having stuff that gets the job done, than saving money if something doesn't work. I'm at a point where I am shrinking the stuff down, in general, and if I don't enjoy whatever it is, it's history. 

H.

Helen, I’ll be following.  My hearing is also diminished, but even if it wasn’t there are plenty of times when being able to hear your partner on the ground would be so nice. Gyms get loud. Outdoor climbing can have deafening winds and other noise so that virtually no communication can take place. Let us know what you find. 

Old lady Hwrote:

I think these are only to listen to music, not have a phone conversation, but thanks! I'm more interested in having stuff that gets the job done, than saving money if something doesn't work. I'm at a point where I am shrinking the stuff down, in general, and if I don't enjoy whatever it is, it's history. 

H.

Helen, my friend uses them for talking on the phone, not listening to music, but I’m pretty sure they will do both.

I wear hearing aids for ordinary life, but am afraid of losing them on climbs.  I do wear them in the gym, and every now and then the rope knocks one out, which is no problem in the gym; outside would be another story, it would most likely be gone forever.  I have some hopes for the following Kickstarter project, https://www.okmilo.com/?utm_source=kickstarter&utm_medium=CTAbutton, but the proof will be in the pudding.

Re: Bluetooth headset. I use an Aftershokz bone conduction headset, and I LOVE it. First (and last) of all, there are no in-ear buds, so you are still acoustically connected to your environment. That’s a huge safety benefit.

They push them for use in both sports and work environments. Their performance for music is adequate, but their bass response is a bit lackluster. I am nutty about my hearing, and I can only use isolating headsets when I’m not moving around. The only problem is that they can tickle a bit at higher volumes. The conduction pads sit on the bone right in front of your ear, and if loud, the vibration can be felt.

I’ve worn them cycling, and have felt that my situational awareness is not compromised at all. Their standard model without the boom mic works fine for calls. As it still has a mic.

I was thinking about this aging thing this morning, and reflecting on a pet peeve of mine: if anyone watches Cable News the plethora of drug commercials targeted to us old people as though that's all we do.  It's sometimes hard to describe the subtle and unsubtle cues about what 'seniors' do and how we are supposed to age.  I try not to get my britches all up in a bunch.  But I was thinking... do we ever see a Black Diamond commercial on Fox or CNN?  

So. Speaking of Black Diamond, I thought I'd check out BD stock, and glad I did.  It appears that Black Diamond is doing quite well, under the corporate NASDAQ "CLAR".  If you are contemplating any investing, might want to give this a look.  

I agree going barefoot is cool and beneficial. I think 'grounding' is a thing. Unfortunately it's moving in to winter here, only 16 degrees C today, and 2 or 3 overnight, which is COLD for me. 

Helen I'd highly recommend JBL Jump Bluetooth headphones. They have good bass, turn on and off automatically, have touch controls for volume, next track, back, take a call etc and do work as I've alluded for phone calls. They fit very firmly. For climbing you may want to tether them with some cord to your helmet of something but they're meant for running/aerobics so they are very secure. 

https://m.catch.com.au/product/jbl-endurance-jump-bluetooth-sport-headphones-yellow-6112287/?gclid=Cj0KCQjws-OEBhCkARIsAPhOkIb3icpP2MGX3AiQkhKj1YHDz40bywGMpCFzz7uB3wzfs0Kr3F3EvKwaAvwLEALw_wcB&offer_id=30327482&ref=gmc

I’m totally inspired again.  Climbing sort of fell through today and Tony and I just wanted to get out of the house and go for a drive.  We swung by Belle and of course I had to review That Old Soft Shoe.  OMG ... what has changed, me or the rock? It really came to life for me today. A few months ago it was out of the question... today it’s really possible.  

So besides my bf Houser, and Jan, can I get the story on Herb?  Does anyone recall how this route came to be?  Who all has climbed it? 

I stood for the longest time at the base of this route and could see the perfect start, and some areas of challenge right at the crux.  Beautiful edges and crimps, plenty of good smearing... just lovely.  I’m thinking October, top of the list.  

So Tony looked it over and said “Lori, ITS A ROCK.” Okay. And that little 76 Olds 98 two-door passing by is JUST A CAR.   

Locker wrote:

Lori,

a short while back I suggested leading to up one's game and then it was brought up that that was old news of some sort concerning you..

you chimed in a bit...

I did not read what you had originally written and I'm still wondering...

do you lead?

if you don't feel like going through any big long story just answer a simple yes or no...

I am just wondering...

With a few exceptions no.   

Had a great day out yesterday with Jay G., Barbara F., and Cheryl T. 

But the big news is that the Kestrel nest box is now a nursery for five happy babies! Dad and Mom will be working hard feeding the little ones, Dad bringing food to the nest and giving it to Mom to take to the chicks.

They should be ready to start flying in about a month.

Brandt! How exciting!  We’re expecting babies at my house too:

A hummingbird built a nest in a pachypodium right next to the garage door.
Headed up to Bishop this AM for 12 days, climbing with my gal pals. 

Brandt, Phylp... we have a new little nest here, too! Very exciting.  Have fun Phylp! 

Lori, Herb Laeger was an interesting one.  He was a very active climber back east and came to Cali to work for Rocketdyne as a rocket scientist.  He was a propulsion expert and worked on rocket fuel and later on making low residual heat propulsion for tank shells so that the barrels didn't get too hot and warp.  His wife, Eve, also climbed hard.  Herb showed up a couple years before Dave quit climbing and we all climbed together for a few years.  Once Dave quit climbing, and the mobile harassment unit in Josh got too nasty to want to climb with Herb and I started climbing in the Sierra a lot.  Herb always had lots of projects around the southern Sierra and if you look at the guidebooks for the Domelands, etc. his name is very prominent.  Eventually we met Kris and the three of us climbed together a lot.  Herb is so competitive that he is sometimes hard to be around and in the end we quit climbing together much and I just climbed with Kris most of the time.  I also took some years off climbing when I had my health issues and that also led to our parting ways some.  Herb moved from LA to Bodfish up by Lake Isabella and established many more areas in the Kern area.  He and Eve moved to Tucson a couple years ago.  Kris will also have lots of Herb stories.

Jan Mcwrote:

Lori, Herb Laeger was an interesting one.  He was a very active climber back east and came to Cali to work for Rocketdyne as a rocket scientist.  He was a propulsion expert and worked on rocket fuel and later on making low residual heat propulsion for tank shells so that the barrels didn't get too hot and warp.  His wife, Eve, also climbed hard.  Herb showed up a couple years before Dave quit climbing and we all climbed together for a few years.  Once Dave quit climbing, and the mobile harassment unit in Josh got too nasty to want to climb with Herb and I started climbing in the Sierra a lot.  Herb always had lots of projects around the southern Sierra and if you look at the guidebooks for the Domelands, etc. his name is very prominent.  Eventually we met Kris and the three of us climbed together a lot.  Herb is so competitive that he is sometimes hard to be around and in the end we quit climbing together much and I just climbed with Kris most of the time.  I also took some years off climbing when I had my health issues and that also led to our parting ways some.  Herb moved from LA to Bodfish up by Lake Isabella and established many more areas in the Kern area.  He and Eve moved to Tucson a couple years ago.  Kris will also have lots of Herb stories.

Jan... I love your stories!  Some of these characters are coming to life for me, so thank you for this!  I see Herb's name associated with so many of your, Dave's, Kris' routes... and I did see Eve's name on a route or two, right? 

As I was taking my morning walk this morning I glanced up at Sport Challenge Wall and had the sudden image of Bachar climbing Leave It To Beaver in his morning rounds.  I may be glorifying those glory days, but on quiet mornings like this it does feel kind of haunting.  I miss those guys, and I never even knew them.  I gather you were all not there at the exact same time, nor did everyone know each other well.  But still.. you were all here, climbing in some fashion.  

One thing I imagine you and I have in common, having had some serious health issues, is just pure gratitude for the ability to climb at all right now.  I don't feel 'old'.  I'm just so happy to still have a body that mostly works and be able to play on rock... I do feel competitive, but only in my own small way.  Where we may differ is you also have some big climbing years behind you... are you still climbing today?  

You have mentioned "the mobile harassment unit in Josh" before.  Is that too sensitive a subject to explain here?  It may answer my question of 'where did everyone go, and why?'

-----------

Thinking about Locker's questions, and those of others on leading... I hope Bob weighs in at some point, but I'm happy with my choices right now.  There are so many things I want to climb, but not lead. I've carefully weighed out risk, and also what it is I love to do.  I am grateful for the opportunity just to step onto some of those routes and learn the art of climbing.  Right now, Dog Day Afternoon has me totally captivated.  If I can learn to climb it, if I can hone in the technique, if I can add some grace to that route... that will be my version of success.  I would hate to stay off of those routes because I am not willing to lead them (or able).  But I get that until recently, the only way to climb was to lead or follow.  

While taking my stroll this morning a young man walked up and asked me "Is this the Sentinel?"   (Brandt will know why this is funny...)... and "Where is Illusion Dweller"? and "Can you show me Sail Away?"... I wound up giving him the tour of RHV.  It's pretty amazing to feel so totally at home these days.  

Jan Mcwrote:

Lori, Herb Laeger was an interesting one.  He was a very active climber back east and came to Cali to work for Rocketdyne as a rocket scientist.  He was a propulsion expert and worked on rocket fuel and later on making low residual heat propulsion for tank shells so that the barrels didn't get too hot and warp.  His wife, Eve, also climbed hard.  Herb showed up a couple years before Dave quit climbing and we all climbed together for a few years.  Once Dave quit climbing, and the mobile harassment unit in Josh got too nasty to want to climb with Herb and I started climbing in the Sierra a lot.  Herb always had lots of projects around the southern Sierra and if you look at the guidebooks for the Domelands, etc. his name is very prominent.  Eventually we met Kris and the three of us climbed together a lot.  Herb is so competitive that he is sometimes hard to be around and in the end we quit climbing together much and I just climbed with Kris most of the time.  I also took some years off climbing when I had my health issues and that also led to our parting ways some.  Herb moved from LA to Bodfish up by Lake Isabella and established many more areas in the Kern area.  He and Eve moved to Tucson a couple years ago.  Kris will also have lots of Herb stories.

Talked to Herb Yesterday. He's well, plays a lot of pickleball these days. Go figure. They're up at their place in Washington State right now. Back to Tucson for the winters.

I'll think up some stories. But most of my times with Herb were up in the Needles and Courtright. In Josh I don't recall doing much more than "Hang 'em High" in Josh with you guys, and that was a pretty workmanlike job... Then there was that business at Hell Rock. Old Herb didn't think much of that place. The holds were too sharp for his liking.   No Rest For the Wicked, and The Route of All Evil, as I recall. The first being hard.11 contortionist moves, and the latter being being 5.12 on razor blades. 

Kristian Solemwrote:

Talked to Herb Yesterday. He's well, plays a lot of pickleball these days. Go figure. They're up at their place in Washington State right now. Back to Tucson for the winters.

I'll think up some stories. But most of my times with Herb were up in the Needles and Courtright. In Josh I don't recall doing much more than "Hang 'em High" in Josh with you guys, and that was a pretty workmanlike job... Then there was that business at Hell Rock. Old Herb didn't think much of that place. The holds were too sharp for his liking.   No Rest For the Wicked, and The Route of All Evil, as I recall. The first being hard.11 contortionist moves, and the latter being being 5.12 on razor blades. 

Maybe old Herb, Jan and you, Kris, are due for a Class Reunion right here in Joshua Tree.  Just think... I could tag along while you show and tell the 'best of' routes, and you guys could spin yarns into the night.    

a 5.12 route on razor blades just sounds lovely.  What else do you do for pleasure?  

Lori, my advice is not to think of leading as some better or more rewarding way to do anything.  I get the idea, but it is an enormously contrived one.  Of course, the collection of premises that make up climbing are all enormously contrived, so what's one more, eh?  But I don't think one aspires to lead, rather one aspires to climb things.  If the things you want to climb require leading, well then, that is the context for thinking about whether you want to do it.  If you are climbing single pitches and find that satisfying and rewarding, then end of story; you are on your path.  If your desires turn to multipitch outings, then leading means that you can share the load, and that may be required if your partners aren't guides.

Now why is it that leading is "more rewarding?" The answer is risk, and the use of your skills to mitigate risk and succeed. I don't deny the headiness of it, I've been at that game for over sixty years, but at the end of the day, risk is the bottom line, at least for trad climbing. In this regard, it is worth noting that you are speaking with those of us who have (so far) survived the embracing of risk, which means that you are conversing with a skewed demographic. The broken and the dead are not weighing in here, and some of them, speaking from this world or the next one, might beg to differ about the nature of those rewards.

My favorite quote on the subject is from Edward Whymper, reflecting on the tragedy that beset his party on the descent after their triumphant first ascent of the Matterhorn. His words might be taken about leading as well.

"There have been joys too great to be described in words, and there have been griefs upon which I have not dared to dwell; and with these in mind I say: climb if you will, but remember that courage and strength are nought without prudence, and that a momentary negligence may destroy the happiness of a lifetime. Do nothing in haste; look well to each step; and from the beginning think what may be the end.”

Well said, rgold. Here's a little context on Whymper's mishap, from my book Advanced Rock Climbing: 

Mountaineering’s first golden age ended abruptly on July 14, 1865. For Edward Whymper, who led a team of seven climbers up the first ascent of Switzerland’s Matterhorn—at the time the last great unclimbed peak in the Alps—both triumph and tragedy were his fate on that great and dreadful summer’s day. Theirs was the first ascent of the icy pyramid—the greatest achievement in alpine climbing at the time, and for Whymper, perhaps the sweetest victory, for after a dozen attempts he now stood on the summit, jubilant, gazing down on the tiny gingerbread town of Zermatt far below.

The euphoric climbers, all seven tied together with manila ropes, began a tedious descent. One of the party suddenly slipped, pulling several of the others off. While Whymper held fast, clinging to a rock outcrop to avoid being yanked into the abyss, the rope broke, sending four climbers to their death. The three survivors were saved from a tragic fate by the weak rope, since they were unanchored and had no belay. Some speculated that the rope had been cut with a knife, but a formal investigation and inspection of the rope revealed the cord had simply parted—broken under the strain. 

The fallen were later buried in the Zermatt cemetery; the Matterhorn soars above them as their tombstone for all time. 

 

 

Well, I tried my little grade 24 project at the gym again tonight and for the first attempt got further than I have before before I fell off. 

Then I couldn't resist another go and fell off at the THIRD TO LAST HOLD! This is quite astonishing for me as I've NEVER done a 24 and the last time I did a 23 was outside about three or four years ago. 

If I could get a 24 at age 59 it'd be worth all the work and physical injuries I've accumulated over 9 years of climbing...