The Ethics you wish everyone knew...

Joel Maywrote:

If you don’t think a route is safe enough, you should take it upon yourself to add a bolt (or multiple) so subsequent parties don’t have to take any risk. This goes for every style of roped climbing. 

IF you know how to bolt or are willing to learn from an appropriate mentor. Even then, maybe don't? I don't know why everyone should feel obligated to start bolting things and frankly there are so many discussions about bolting ethics that it's not something newcomers should worried about. There's more than enough sport climbing already to enjoy and if it's scary find a different one. Yes, there's that many.

And to keep things on topic: Follow the rules. Climber access is becoming a struggle and the fact that people break the few rules that already exist is an awful sign of things to come.

When you lower the last time, brush all holds to remove excess chalk. When you leave a boulder, brush all holds. Remove all tickmarks, even if you didn't leave them. Do not place tickmarks everywhere. If you feel you need to place one, place it as lightly as possible. Marks done with big chalk crumbs are difficult to brush and remove completely. 

If you need tickmarks everywhere, climb lower grades until you are better at climbing on actual rock.

Joel Maywrote:

If you don’t think a route is safe enough, you should take it upon yourself to add a bolt (or multiple) so subsequent parties don’t have to take any risk. This goes for every style of roped climbing. 

10/10 very funny.

Always clean your shoes before setting foot on the rock to minimize wear/polish.

Dont go and try and change route names you personally find offensive and dont spray down people at the crag unless #1 they asked or #2 they are about to hurt someone.

Keep your stuff organized at the base of your climb and not strewn across the trail, and leave your hammock at home.   

Guy Keeseewrote:

Don’t feed my dog

I don't even know where you live, how could I feed your dog

Please ask before you tie in to the TR I just set up.

Don't pull my rap rope before I'm down. And if it is uneven, could you even it out? ...and tie some knots if I forgot.

If you've had a good, long "sesh" (and you're a bit sweaty/stinky), please don't use my hammock.

If you know how to tune a guitar, please feel free to tune up mine if I'm belaying.

Don't let my cat off leash.

Emil Alejandriawrote:

IF you know how to bolt or are willing to learn from an appropriate mentor. Even then, maybe don't? I don't know why everyone should feel obligated to start bolting things and frankly there are so many discussions about bolting ethics that it's not something newcomers should worried about. There's more than enough sport climbing already to enjoy and if it's scary find a different one. Yes, there's that many.

And to keep things on topic: Follow the rules. Climber access is becoming a struggle and the fact that people break the few rules that already exist is an awful sign of things to come.

He was being sarcastic and mocking people like me that feel that FA ethics are dumb and in need of changing and that retrobolting at least some routes would be of benefit. It sounds like you agree with him. (P.s. there aren't that many in some places)

Creed Archibaldwrote:

Dogs should be leashed in most settings. 

Unless "they are some of the life blood of the winter crew out there." Seriously, that is what someone wrote in defense of their friend having a pack of unleashed dogs at the crag, and by pack I mean eight dogs at least. Remember that next time you bring your dog. Just yell to the haters I AM THE LIFE BLOOD OF THE WINTER CREW!

Bryan Kwrote:

More etiquette as well, but don't hop on super popular routes only to be a complete junk show, slow other parties down, and ruin their experience.  Pick out reasonable objectives in your ability range and have the humility to bail if they're too much, rather than holding up parties behind you.

Ah yes, the "lets all top rope project the only warmup at this crag before we wander over to Epinephrine to dial in our systems" crew.

Don't bolt like you're a male cat marking his territory.

Give plants a chance. Stay on the trail, try to walk on durable surfaces if you're not on a trail, keep your stuff on durable surfaces. 

Don't pee under overhangs.

Leave your wire brush and leaf blower at home.

The lichen, frogs, bats, birds and assorted insects will be grateful.

SinRopa wrote:

I love dogs, so if it runs up to me all playful, I’m probably gonna end up feeding it.  If it runs up all aggressive, I’m absolutely gonna feed it.  If it’s well behaved, I’ll likely try to lure it over to me with food.

If you’re around I’ll ask permission, but if it’s all lonely with no owner around, I’m going to think it’s starving and feed it.

I know it’s wrong, but I’m weak willed in that way.  Apologies in advance.

I get that sentiment, but if the dog has allergies you may kill it. 

Of course, this hypothetical should never happen since a climber shouldn't be leaving a dog unsupervised. 

Respect Closures 

Pack out whatever trash you find, not just your own

Don't explode all over a crag with your stuff and hammocks

Brush your ticks when you're done

Stop having conversations via shouting up and down the route

Don’t play your guitar while I’m enjoying a nice glass of Chardonnay.

Live laugh love

Dave Olsenwrote:

Leave your wire brush and leaf blower at home.

The lichen, frogs, bats, birds and assorted insects will be grateful.

So no new routes ever then?