Bad Experience in SLC Climbing - Looking for Recommendations to give it another go!

Hello,

I was traveling the country last summer in a camper and stopped into SLC. I had a bad experience but I would like to give the area another go!

I am primarily into Trad climbing but also enjoy clipping bolts. I can find sport crags easy enough. Can the community provide recommendations for trad crags and multi-pitch that would be considered local to SLC? The taller the better!

Typically climb in the 5.9-5.11 range for trad both single and multi.

Kyle Sicardwrote:

Hello,

I was traveling the country last summer in a camper and stopped into SLC. I had a bad experience but I would like to give the area another go!

I am primarily into Trad climbing but also enjoy clipping bolts. I can find sport crags easy enough. Can the community provide recommendations for trad crags and multi-pitch that would be considered local to SLC? The taller the better!

Typically climb in the 5.9-5.11 range for trad both single and multi.

It would be helpful to know why your first experience was bad.

Tradibanwrote:

It would be helpful to know why your first experience was bad.

After climbing in Bishop, Lake Tahoe, and Lander for about a month and half we moved over to SLC. I found the temperatures to be unbearably hot in the canyon mouths in June. The temps really just crushed the experience for me. I wanted to move over to Colorado ASAP whose summer temps are quite nice.

We were climbing the canyon mouths right next to SLC and also checked out some sport areas in Provo.

It's an unfair assessment of the areas so I'd like to plan a trip back during more mild temperatures and see what gear plugging goodness I can find. Looking to change my original experience.

If you're up for the hike, head up to Lone Peak mountainproject.com/area/10….  It's an unforgettable experience.  Glacial temps during the summer.

Otherwise, take the suggestions MP already has here: https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105739277/little-cottonwood-canyon, here https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105739280/big-cottonwood-canyon, or head down here: https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105739274/american-fork-canyon for some sport climbing, or take a day trip here: https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105739298/maple-canyon

Kyle Sicardwrote:

After climbing in Bishop, Lake Tahoe, and Lander for about a month and half we moved over to SLC. I found the temperatures to be unbearably hot in the canyon mouths in June. The temps really just crushed the experience for me. I wanted to move over to Colorado ASAP whose summer temps are quite nice.

We were climbing the canyon mouths right next to SLC and also checked out some sport areas in Provo.

It's an unfair assessment of the areas so I'd like to plan a trip back during more mild temperatures and see what gear plugging goodness I can find. Looking to change my original experience.

If you work the shade and elevation right you'll have a better time. Shade is key also consider some sport, quite a few shady spots on rivers with some damn good routes. Did I mention shade?

Kyle Sicardwrote:

After climbing in Bishop, Lake Tahoe, and Lander for about a month and half we moved over to SLC. I found the temperatures to be unbearably hot in the canyon mouths in June. The temps really just crushed the experience for me. I wanted to move over to Colorado ASAP whose summer temps are quite nice.

Do it. Besides Lone Peak, there is no good summer trad climbing in SLC. 

Creed Archibaldwrote:

Do it. Besides Lone Peak, there is no good summer trad climbing in SLC. 

I plan to visit during the cooler fall months. Any recommendations for that time? I will definitely take a look at Lone Peak!

News flash, its hot out in Utah in the summer. Like really hot, if you were a baby about it before its not going to be any different now. Probably even hotter this year because of the drought. Which also makes it extra brown and grey looking out here. 

Fall is not a good alpine trad month in SLC. Too cold. 

If you're here in the summer sport climb, Maple, Uinta, Logan, AF just be in the shade and its nice or go to Lone Peak for trad but you really only got 2 months as water dries up.  Fall is a good trad time in the Cotton Woods.   Depending on your appetite for rock West Desert has some really tall stuff for you at Notch Peak but if that rock isn't your jam check out Ibex world class stuff. Lots of good climbing in Utah just do some research on what you want climb and ask for recomendations on when would be a good time.  Year round climbing can be had with in 2-3 hours of Salt Lake just need someone to point you in the direction. 

Bad experience because you got the weather wrong?  Anyway there are over 1,000 trad routes within a half hour of Salt Lake City.