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Which Winds Area Would You Choose
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Taking my second trip into The Winds, but my first trip in to climb. Which area would you choose and briefly why, Titcomb Basin or Cirque of the Towers? |
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Cirque of the Towers. Deep Lake area gets the second vote. Both accessed from the same trailhead. Cirque has been getting hammered in recent years, too many people and too much poop. Pack your poop out. The East Ridge of Wolf’s Head and NE Face of Pingora are bonafide classics, well worth your time. Just get up early to be first! |
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Thanka will...... is it worth takeing the detour into Deep Lake for say one route, before heading into the Cirque? |
Michael Catlettwrote: Depends on how much time you have! Hard to stay in there more than a few days without hiring some pack horses/mules/llamas/goats... I haven’t had the pleasure of checking out the Deep Lake area yet, but I’ve heard great things. Lost Temple Spire and Haystack look pretty awesome. Probably best to just get into the Cirque and spend your time there though. |
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Both deep lake and the cirque of the towers are great climbing. I'd say go climb in the cirque before it gets even busier. The past couple years the cirque has exploded with climbers and backpackers. Deep lake is definitely less busy just because it isn't as famous. I haven't been to titcomb basin yet but probably will this year. I've heard titcomb is better for scrambling and peak bagging than pure rock climbing. |
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Titcomb Basin has some great rock routes. Mt. Helen, Woodrow Wilson, there's lots there, and though it's a hike, it's a wonderful place. |
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Last year was my first time in the Winds. We took two different trips. First we went to Deep Lake, then the Cirque. I personally wouldn’t combine both areas in one trip. Deep Lake was a lot quieter. We climbed Steeple via the N Ridge & and Minor Dihedral on Haystack. The climbing on Steeple was circuitous & mediocre, but the formation was super cool. The climbing on Minor Dihedral was good and the Grassy Goat Route decent was unique. It was cool that there’s a barely passable 4th class “trail” through such a sweeping face. The Cirque was definitely a lot busier. We climbed a bunch of stuff there. If you’re good at minimizing your gear and have a lightweight kit, you can carry everything you need for a week or more. I think we were in there for nine or ten days, and had no problem carrying everything. We even took a longer route out over Texas Pass so we could climb a couple towers and camp at Shadow Lake for a couple nights. |
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Not to hijack this post, but can anyone weigh in on typical weather patterns/seasons? From what I've found July/August seems to be peak season but is early June totally out/sufferfest or is it just shoulder season? I imagine there is a more substantial snowpack but are we talking winter alpine conditions or just chilly temps? Considering a first recon/climbing trip to orient myself to the Winds over Memorial weekend but don't want to waste my time if the weather is too brutal. Any advice would be welcome! |
Will Manesswrote: Nonsense. My wife and I would go for anywhere from 8 to 12 days. We’d even pack a beer each for each day. Both places offer awesome climbs, but different sorts of beauty. |
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Go to deep lake if you’re looking for 10s, the cirque for moderates. SW arete on lost temple spire is the best 5.10 alpine route I’ve ever done, if anything it’s prettier over there, we saw one other party all week, and there’s less elevation on the approach. (One could easily carry in for 10-14 days) As for the season, LATE July to early September, any earlier and the mosquitos are apocalyptic. June might be nice if you get a warm week; deep lake is all sun, cirque is all shade. IMO the main reason to go to the cirque is for wolfs head traverse, undeniably the best 5.6 in the universe. |
 East Fork Valley |
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Ambush looks amazing! I wish I'd gone back there in 2019 when I had the chance! |
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2nd Steve for the East Fork. If you're looking for immaculate, moderate-to-hard, alpine climbing in the Winds, this is where it's at. Golden Dihedral should be in the 50 classics. Edit: hope you're doing well Steve. |
Larry Goodwinwrote: Like all things weather related, it depends. It depends on how much snow the range received over the winter and the spring. I think a Memorial weekend trip would be iffy at best. Trips in late May and June will put you in prime time for the WORST aspect of the Winds - MOSQUITOES. (Oh wait - PLEASE go in at that time, because you'll never go back!) I've seen years when there was snow around Big Sandy Lake (and deep snow over jackass pass into the Cirque of the Towers) the second week of July. I've seen other years when there was essentially no snow at Deep Lake the third week of June. Also, the roads (mostly dirt roads) may not be passable into many trailheads until mid-June or early July. The website for the Great Outdoors shop in Pinedale has good information on current trail conditions - check them out (and shop there). To the OP -go to the Cirque first. Yes, it will be crowded, but everywhere is crowded now. There are plenty of excellent routes other than the trade routes if they are too crowded, but they are great routes and you should do them. I doubt you will have to wait to get on them, but might have to pass other parties or be passed by them. (I.e. - East Ridge Wolf's Head, NE Face Pingora, etc.) If you haven't done much alpine trad, don't underestimate the complexity and time it takes for the descent. Titcomb Basin is a looong hike in (15 - 18 mi) with long climbs and longer descents. Would not recommend for your first climbing trip to the Winds. A few people mentioned East Fork Valley. This would be a good alternative to the Cirque. The posters forgot to mention one of the attractions of East Fork Valley - Midsummer Dome. This sits in the middle of the valley, is lower, and has shorter routes (3 - 5 pitches). Midsummer routes are great for warmup, easier day, or iffy weather days. |
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During peak season, you will be waiting while climbing NE pingora and the wolf's head. I was there last summer, talked to people and saw 8 parties on NE face one day. Wolfhead looked worse. On weekends, you'll see headlamps coming down at night. Most people over estimate their route finding ability on both climbs. Sure they're competent trad climbers to 5.11 hopping on a 5.8. But they've never climbed more than a 2 or 3 pitch route you can see the entirety of from the ground. |
garrett Kwrote: Wow - not much of a wilderness anymore... We stopped climbing in the Cirque in the early 80's because it was getting "crowded." Lol!
I agree the art of route finding is a lost art. The descent from Wolf's Head is complicated. |
