New and Experienced Climbers Over 50 #16

Infrequent contributor here -- adding this so that this thread pops up as NEW for me.  I will add, though, that I got out to my project this weekend -- a highball.  I've been working it on my own but the landing is starting to make my ankles creak.  At my age, I think it might be time for a top-rope -- especially as the next section goes out left and away from the pad.  What did we do before pads -- besides go for stitches sometimes?

I had a frustrating day of climbing in Eldo yesterday. I was tired - haven't really been taking any rest days for the past several weeks and it seemed to catch up to me all at once. It was a day of having no power, not trusting my feet (climbing in new shoes that felt like boards), and just overall not moving well. I finally started to come around on the last pitch of the day (P2 of Touch 'n Go) which is a nice technical thin corner, so things ended well. Still a great day out with 2 of my favorite people in the world.

Not sure where this is, but I'd love to walk out and see it.  1990's petroglyphs.

Photo shows date on one of Samuelson's panels is 1927, not 1990s. Do this now and you will have law enforcement pay you a visit.

PTR.. we down climbed... 

PTRwrote:

Infrequent contributor here -- adding this so that this thread pops up as NEW for me.  I will add, though, that I got out to my project this weekend -- a highball.  I've been working it on my own but the landing is starting to make my ankles creak.  At my age, I think it might be time for a top-rope -- especially as the next section goes out left and away from the pad.  What did we do before pads -- besides go for stitches sometimes?

I do highballs all the time but TR them to death on a gri gri first   I've got a bad ankle I busted in an avalanche ice climbing 30 years ago (I'm now a reformed ice climber).  So far, after TR rehearsing, I've never fallen on a highball.  Going out tomorrow by myself on another new one, fingers crossed.

This is from warmer times, only V4 but pretty tall.

Erika, that explains it.  You sent your energy to me.     Thank you!  

Big day today.  Too tired to tell about it but this...

Lori Milaswrote:

How the hell did this get to #16?  Who's talking so much?    

I'm feeling nothing but gratitude today.  I woke up thinking what a lavish gift God has given... rock climbing is not easy!  Everything has to be there: health, strength, friends, access to rock/nature.  And here it is.  

Having Dierdre here, I'm feeling a lot of empathy for how hard it is to become a climber.  Yes, she gets out with Alex occasionally.  But otherwise, she's up against the same challenges we all are--finding partners, gaining strength and technique, being close enough to climb.  At our age (Dierdre and I are close in age)... if you go back home and sit around, you have lost all your gains.  And it's not just about finding partners, but about finding partners who are about the same or better skill level, and willing to consistently show up.  

With the best planning, there are still no guarantees.  Dierdre set up with a women's climbing workshop this weekend.  We are having wind storms here... I mean HOWLING.  And they are out at Playhouse Rock because that's the only place that isn't torn up right now.  It hasn't been fun.  But this is what she has, before heading home. 

The other frightening challenge is the prospect of going home alone, to an empty house... and aging alone.  Friends and family can't be there always.  Frailty happens.  Shit happens.  To have a community, to have people who care... golden.

.....

No kidding.  Just wasting away day after beautiful day due to a lack of partners.  At least I have the bike to ride...

If ever there was a time to be jubilant it is today.  Some of you may know how much I have wanted to get myself onto Intersection Rock, Billabong and Shovelin-Cole routes.  I don’t know what it is about that wall, those routes, but I know I’ve posted pictures here of other climbers and always felt forlorn because it’s just too hard to set up for top rope.  Today Dierdre and I were out with Nelson, and I asked if he could possibly rig that up.  

There is always that worry that someone is going to go to extraordinary lengths to set up a rope, and I might just belly flop and ruin all that effort.  

But It was a total high and a day I‘ll always remember.  Both routes out of my range, but somehow I managed the left route (10b) without a hang, the right one needs a bit of polish (10c).  But just WOW.  

What an honor.  Just to be able to set foot on some of these rocks, attempt to work up such stunning routes... there are not words.

Tony was able to tolerate one route, and then made an excuse to leave.  “I just can’t watch you, baby.”  

I'm still just a little bit high from yesterday's climbing... and reflecting on an unexpected traverse--something I have not done before.  Towards the top of Bilabong there is one last draw (as a directional)... and then it's a slow crawl to the anchor way over to the right.  I had a death-grip on that last draw, and some real adrenaline when I let it go and proceeded on.  There was a BIG difference being on that rock securely tied to a top rope... and climbing over to that anchor on the traverse.  There was no choice but to move on, but I didn't enjoy it.  

Every step of the way I've asked myself if I want to lead some easier routes.  It's always been a 'no' because I would feel so limited in what I could climb.  Still giving this thought...

ErikaNWwrote:

I had a frustrating day of climbing in Eldo yesterday. I was tired - haven't really been taking any rest days for the past several weeks and it seemed to catch up to me all at once. It was a day of having no power, not trusting my feet (climbing in new shoes that felt like boards), and just overall not moving well. I finally started to come around on the last pitch of the day (P2 of Touch 'n Go) which is a nice technical thin corner, so things ended well. Still a great day out with 2 of my favorite people in the world.

Eldo is really good at destroying the ego.  I've had days in Eldo that really make me think I have no business calling myself a climber.  Maybe it's not this way for everyone, but for me, everything has to be dialed in - head, technique, gear, strength, and also a certain "feel" for the unique quality of the rock there, or else it's just... a big sigh and a dialing down of expectations for the day.

GO

This is from the last thread, hope this copy/paste works:

Senor Arroz · 5 days ago

Senor, I'm in somewhat the same boat.  I wanted to say congrats to you!

I just got back to the gym after over a year where I think I went just once (with my wife on V-Day).  I just didn't think it was worth the risk.  This despite the fact that I've been an absolute gym rat since I started climbing twenty-whatever years ago.  

I did every route I could up to 11- on an autobelay on my lunch break yesterday.  It did go remarkably well for me too (I couldn't get up the 11, but almost).  Unfortunately my forearm *still* hurts from when I seem to have injured it hangboarding in December.  It's really achy today.  This despite not really doing any climbing or hangboarding for four months.  I'm going to try a full course of ibuprofen and ice for a week to see if things improve, else I guess I'll have to find a doctor to have a look.

GO

csproulwrote:

I can officially join this thread today. Just got back from 5 days in Red Rock with a good friend, which was a great birthday present.

Happy B-Day!  Is that first one from the top of Cat In The Hat?

GO

GabeOwrote:

Happy B-Day!  Is that first one from the top of Cat In The Hat?

GO

Thanks GabeO! Top of Brownstone wall, having just done Armatron.

Csproul ....  you don’t sound old enuf to be here.
Got some ID??

Who was the guitarist in the band “The Doors”?

I’m just barely old enough to be in the club...I had to look up his name, Robby Krieger. When Jim Morison died in July 1971 at only 27, I was barely 2 months old. I didn’t  realize they put out a couple more albums after  he died!

csproulwrote:

I’m just barely old enough to be in the club...I had to look up his name, Robby Krieger. When Jim Morison died in July 1971 at only 27, I was barely 2 months old.

I was lucky to see the DoorS live in CT in 1967. The played at a place called the Oakdale Theatre, which was a round stage. Second row seats, unbelievable. Jim Morrison was indescribably magnetic. 

csproulwrote:

I’m just barely old enough to be in the club...I had to look up his name, Robby Krieger. When Jim Morison died in July 1971 at only 27, I was barely 2 months old. I didn’t  realize they put out a couple more albums after  he died!

You have to know how to cover yourself here.  Just say "I can't remember, I was too busy being high at the time, and breaking on through to the other side."  BOOM.  You're in!  

csproulwrote:

Thanks GabeO! Top of Brownstone wall, having just done Armatron.

Fantastic route! Happy birthday!

GabeOwrote:

Eldo is really good at destroying the ego.  I've had days in Eldo that really make me think I have no business calling myself a climber.  Maybe it's not this way for everyone, but for me, everything has to be dialed in - head, technique, gear, strength, and also a certain "feel" for the unique quality of the rock there, or else it's just... a big sigh and a dialing down of expectations for the day.

GO

I don’t think you’re alone in that... pretty much everyone I know has somewhat of a love-hate relationship with the place. It will slap you down fast if you go in with expectations. 

ErikaNWwrote:

I don’t think you’re alone in that... pretty much everyone I know has somewhat of a love-hate relationship with the place. It will slap you down fast if you go in with expectations. 

Went there one day about 25 years ago.  Bailed for Boulder Canyon.   No expectations, just did not like the place for some reason.....