How to train for climbing competition

Hi guys. I want to hear your opinions about training for competition, especially for lead climbing.

How do you prepare for climbing competitions?

Write your ways and training plans - how many days do you climb and how is your schedule looks like?

What do you have in priorities, when there is only 1 month for competition. 

P.S. How do you get rid of nervousness during competition and keep calm?

One month? How big is the gap between where you are now, and the level your competitors will be climbing at?

It's just local competition. Nothing special, but not too easy. Gap isn't too high between me and other competitors, but climbing shape and some improvements are necessary to get some high points.

Sounds cool. In that short of a time, strategy is key. 

My wife competes at power lifting (not body building, but rather an intense strength sport, in as much as you can call climbing a a sport).  So as she approaches a competition the intensity of her lifting will grow to a level above what she'll lift at the comp. Then there's one week of total rest. She wins national records.

You might think about your situation in a similar way. I doubt that going for personal bests during the last week before the comp will help you much. Maybe if, in the next few weeks, you focus on making every attempt high quality, you don't waste a single move, while at the same time you're relaxed enough to like it, and not pull a tendon, etc., you'll bring in a respectable performance. Don't climb to win right now. Climb to respect your self. You might win, why not, but walk away satisfied.

Out of 35 years climbing I'd guess that about a month of that time was in a gym. But my outdoor resume includes lot's .12's and a few .13's, several of them FA's and most of them trads. So gym wise you might take my advice with a grain of salt. But I think in many ways the same ideas apply. 

Best of luck, and show up to have fun.   

Kristian Solem wrote:

Sounds cool. In that short of a time, strategy is key. 

My wife competes at power lifting (not body building, but rather an intense strength sport, in as much as you can call climbing a a sport).  So as she approaches a competition the intensity of her lifting will grow to a level above what she'll lift at the comp. Then there's one week of total rest. She wins national records.

You might think about your situation in a similar way. I doubt that going for personal bests during the last week before the comp will help you much. Maybe if, in the next few weeks, you focus on making every attempt high quality, you don't waste a single move, while at the same time you're relaxed enough to like it, and not pull a tendon, etc., you'll bring in a respectable performance. Don't climb to win right now. Climb to respect your self. You might win, why not, but walk away satisfied.

Out of 35 years climbing I'd guess that about a month of that time was in a gym. But my outdoor resume includes lot's .12's and a few .13's, several of them FA's and most of them trads. So gym wise you might take my advice with a grain of salt. But I think in many ways the same ideas apply. 

Best of luck, and show up to have fun.   

Thank you! It's really motivational reply for me.  

Good luck to you too!   

Well, I never competed, but watched a lot of youtube comps

Is it a flash comp or onsight? If onsight, train to send routes first go. Might be a bit challenging - you only have 1 month left, with typical gym turnover there are not likely to be enough routes to train. You might have to go visit other gyms.
Local comp, you say. Are setters local? If yes, try to figure out their specific styles, try to recognize routes - they are likely to use similar cruxes/holds.
Try to get familiar with holds that will be used at the comp - not a problem if this is a low key comp, otherwise a bit of challenge. Usually the more challenging holds will have a specific way to hold them that will be marginally better.
If the typical scoring is based on the highest hold, focus on getting to the highest hold - don't waste your energy on crappy clipping stances.
If there is a time limit, focus on bouldering at "almost your limit" for that time.

Don't get injured and have fun.

amarius wrote:

Well, I never competed, but watched a lot of youtube comps

Is it a flash comp or onsight? If onsight, train to send routes first go. Might be a bit challenging - you only have 1 month left, with typical gym turnover there are not likely to be enough routes to train. You might have to go visit other gyms.
Local comp, you say. Are setters local? If yes, try to figure out their specific styles, try to recognize routes - they are likely to use similar cruxes/holds.
Try to get familiar with holds that will be used at the comp - not a problem if this is a low key comp, otherwise a bit of challenge. Usually the more challenging holds will have a specific way to hold them that will be marginally better.
If the typical scoring is based on the highest hold, focus on getting to the highest hold - don't waste your energy on crappy clipping stances.
If there is a time limit, focus on bouldering at "almost your limit" for that time.

Don't get injured and have fun.

Thanks.