Post Awesome Trad Movies Here #2

Delaney Bray-Stonewrote:

oops you're right, I tapped out partway P1. Carry on lol

What is that weird knot he ties at the end for the master point, and what advantage does it provide? It's like a figure 8 but with an extra wrap.

Yes, it’s an 8 with an addition wrap above the knot, like you said.  It helps to visually closes the system when clipping into the strands above the knot. 

SethGwrote:

I don't think this has been posted. Nothing cutting edge, just really nice footage of a beautiful J Tree two-pitch slab classic. 

Good camera work, but way too long. They should have edited it down. 

Josh Squirewrote:

Good camera work, but way too long. They should have edited it down. 

I thought the portion of her climbing was great. She had a nervous intensity. I'm glad it's longer than a few moves with shitty music.

Chris Ducawrote:

Yes, it’s an 8 with an addition wrap above the knot, like you said.  It helps to visually closes the system when clipping into the strands above the knot. 

I don't understand. In what way does it help to visually close the system? Aren't the two strands above the knot equally obvious either way?

Also, is it best practice to clip the shelf with this sort of anchor configuration? I typically use 3-point anchors with cordalette, allowing redundancy on the shelf because I can clip into multiple strands each with their own anchor piece. In this situation there is no redundancy as far as I can tell.

EDIT: Feel free to PM me please if you have the answer, to avoid spamming thread! :)

This is not the place for such discussion. Although it's easy to be swayed, let's try to stay on topic.

It's a "figure of 9."  No real reason to do it as far as I can tell, other than to use up excess material if you're using a sling or cord.  And yeah, there is no proper shelf in that situation.  

I don't remember seeing this one, but it could very well be a repost. 

Watching that Gobat film I am inspired.... to get myself some green pants. And not to try to climb El Cap and Half Dome in a day. 

https://youtu.be/Uu8v6bIUkmQ

You 'might' like these.  Documented proof that the fat kid can sometimes climb some things.  Hope this inspires a few clydesdales out there.  Sure, it's drone footage but I'm placing totems.

One more for the fat kids:

Jplotz:

I know (hope?) you are joking whenever you refer to yourself as fat, but it's pretty discouraging to see someone as fit and healthy looking as yourself saying that. 

Nice sends!

David Devillewrote:

Jplotz:

I know (hope?) you are joking whenever you refer to yourself as fat, but it's pretty discouraging to see someone as fit and healthy looking as yourself saying that. 

Nice sends!

If I'm not fat, then why do I always have to go first on rappel?!

I know a piggy when I see one.

Brandon White wrote:

Is that all chalk beneath the overhang?

It's cocaine, the route was projected in the 80s. It's mineral deposits I think, from water seepage. 

Jplotzwrote:

If I'm not fat, then why do I always have to go first on rappel?!

There are numerous explanations for this. 'Won't be missed', 'Less to live for', and 'We want to talk about you' come to mind.   

That Slim Pickens route looks pretty neat.

Jplotzwrote:

You 'might' like these.  Documented proof that the fat kid can sometimes climb some things.  Hope this inspires a few clydesdales out there.  Sure, it's drone footage but I'm placing totems.

That you? What is "fat" to you? 

K Gowrote:

That you? What is "fat" to you? 

Yep that's me, reduced down to 175 after weighing 200 in December (6'2"). So maybe 'husky' would be more appropriate.